I had read conflicting reports on the difficulty of installing the front 5100's at home, but I went ahead and did it this past weekend.

The biggest problem that I had was trying to use a cheap set of spring compressors. These 87746are NOT up to the task of compressing the coil springs on our trucks! After trying to use them, having the threaded rod deflect enough to lock the nuts in position (even using lots of oil on the threads), I had a helluva battle trying to SAFELY remove the compressors from the spring.

After going to O'Reilly's Auto and renting a set of spring compressors that was higher quality, I didn't have any other problems changing the shocks in the coilover assembly.

I installed the 5100's in the 2nd position for approx. 0.625" lift to correct some spring sag, and it was a bit of a struggle for one person to re-install them on the truck - even using a 2x4 for leverage against the lower control arm. With two people, it might have been a cakewalk.

I installed new swaybar bushings at the same time, and the combination makes the truck feel much firmer in the corners. I'm very pleased with the results.

Next weekend, I'll tackle the rear shock replacement if it doesn't rain.

Which ones exacty did you rent from O'Reilly's?

Ive installed two sets with these I rented from Autozone. 87756 Part number 27036. Make sure you attached each end of the compressor to the spring on the coils as far apart as possible so you get the most compression. If you don't connect the compressors to the last coils it will be difficult or impossible to get the necessary spring compression.

How much does it cost to rent that from Autozone?...Any more than $20, and I will just plan on taking mine to shop to do for $35 for the pair.

$35/pair is a no brainer. and you won't even get your hands dirty!

$35/pair is a no brainer. and you won't even get your hands dirty!

Yep, cost me about $95 for the pair!

Ive installed two sets with these I rented from Autozone. 87756 Part number 27036. Make sure you attached each end of the compressor to the spring on the coils as far apart as possible so you get the most compression. If you don't connect the compressors to the last coils it will be difficult or impossible to get the necessary spring compression.

I rented these from AZ whenever I did mine. They charged my credit card for them' but refunded the full amount whenever I returned them, so it was basically free.

Has anyone tried installing them without spring compressors? I've done it on 2 different vehicles with mcphearson struts and all i do is jack up the bottom of the hub once the strut is attached to it. Is this impossible because of spring travel on the Tundra?

Has anyone tried installing them without spring compressors? I've done it on 2 different vehicles with mcphearson struts and all i do is jack up the bottom of the hub once the strut is attached to it. Is this impossible because of spring travel on the Tundra?

Sounds REALLY dangerous. I saw a youtube video of someone doing this on a Tacoma. They unhooked the lower control arm and supported it with a jack, took the top center bolt out of the strut and lowered the control arm with the jack, effectively decompressing the spring. SCARY!

87756

These are the same ones that I rented from O'Reilly.

Sounds REALLY dangerous. I saw a youtube video of someone doing this on a Tacoma. They unhooked the lower control arm and supported it with a jack, took the top center bolt out of the strut and lowered the control arm with the jack, effectively decompressing the spring. SCARY!

I saw that too. haha. he scared me away from trying to do it myself.

I have a feeling that if you loosen the upper control arm when putting the coilover back in, it won't fight you as much on prying the lower arm down. I had to pry mine down when installing a set of coilovers with my stock upper arm, they seemed to have tension holding them up, that was what pulled my lower arms up. I have aftermarket upper arms now and when I pulled my coilovers out I didn't even have to pry to get them back in.

If anybody else puts 5100s in soon, try loosening the upper arm. Wait till the truck is at ride height to tighten it back up.

Sounds REALLY dangerous. I saw a youtube video of someone doing this on a Tacoma. They unhooked the lower control arm and supported it with a jack, took the top center bolt out of the strut and lowered the control arm with the jack, effectively decompressing the spring. SCARY!

On other cars i've done it on, it's perfectly safe. You don't detach anything, you use the mechanics of the suspension as your spring compressor. That's why asked about the Tundra though, i didn't know if it was set up in a way you could do it. Best setup for that kind of trick is 2 bolts holding the strut to the hub. I haven't had time to take a look at the Truck though.

Yeah, you COULD maybe do it this way on the Tundra, but I wouldnt do it. Two reasons:

1) There may not be enough down travel in the lower arm, especially with the CV's still in and tie-rods still attached, and MOST especially when putting a lifted spring/strut in. I know when I put just a 2" spacer on my 99 Tacoma struts, I had a hella time trying to get the strut assembly back in. Had to have a helper basically kneel on a long pipe wedged into the A-arm to get it extended far enough down to squeeze the strut back in.
2) Thats a LOT of angle on the lower arm to extend everything enough to get all the pressure off the spring. If the jack were to slip off the LBJ before that compression was gone, that could lead to a dangerous blow-out. That compression is gonna wanna blow the bottom of the strut off the A-arm, directly out toward anyone kneeling in front of the hub/rotor, or the three small studs at the top could sheer, and the top could swing out, flinging that spring up into someone's head. I know the lower, single bolt holding the bottom of the strut to the spindle is pretty hefty, but if you're in the rust belt, it seems pretty risky to trust one bolt, AND two (relatively) thin tabs of metal to all that pressure.

Also, what happens if you get halfway through doing this, and it gets stuck cockeyed or something, and you realise its not gonna work? How you gonna safely get it back in to take it out right? NO way I wanna put myself in THAT position.

Go ahead and pull the COMPLETE strut assemblies yourself, then take both to a shop and have THEM switch the springs. Should only be a 1/2hr job to do both. Around here thats $35 for most independent shops, and $50 for a stealership.

I just did mine last week. It was pretty straight forward. I rented the OEM brand spring compressor from AZ, and they credit the money when returned.

The biggest problem I had was reinstalling the lower bolts. The front drive shaft was in the way. I wonder if you could get a shorted bolt, and insert the bolt front the front side. Would have saved a lot a messing around trying to get it back in. My ride after install is great now! Love them. I also installed mine on the second slot from bottom. I would like to get the sway bar bushings too. Where is the best place to get them?