What do you guys think of the 1st generations? I've hit a career change in life and sold my FJ to my brother to cut back on the car payments. I want to get something cheaper to drive for a few years before I get something nice.

I'm looking at a 2002 Tundra Limited. It has a TRD Supercharger, headers, cat back exhaust (everything was installed from the dealer), all leather, tow package, 2wd (I don't want 4wd). Everything on it works fine and the owner supposedly has all the paperwork for the work done on it. It has 168K on it. He's asking 7500 obo.

Do you guys think it's worth the price? What would you guys offer?

The mileage doesn't worry me too much (it's a Yota) but I don't want to be doing all sorts of work on my truck every weekend. I expect to drive it for a few years and upgrade to something nicer eventually. I don't expect to tow very much, and would use it for the basic light duty truck. I can't seem to find a first gen Taco in good shape for a decent price so I'm checking this out. Is it unreasonable to expect some good years of service from the truck?

Going to look at it this weekend. Anything I should be on the lookout for?

If you can get the VIN you can go onto Toyota Owners Official Website: Service Coupons, Owners Manuals, Service Scheduling and More (http://www.toyota.com/owners/web/pages/home) and register for free. You can then access all maintenance/repair records for everything performed by any Toyota dealer(s). That will tell you lots about how the truck has been maintained and also confirm whether all those add-ons were actually installed by a dealer.

If you can get the VIN you can go onto Toyota Owners Official Website: Service Coupons, Owners Manuals, Service Scheduling and More (http://www.toyota.com/owners/web/pages/home) and register for free. You can then access all maintenance/repair records for everything performed by any Toyota dealer(s). That will tell you lots about how the truck has been maintained and also confirm whether all those add-ons were actually installed by a dealer.
Damn that's awesome. The guy said in email that he has all the paperwork showing when and where it was installed. But, people will say anything to get you to come look at something.

Do you think the price is fair?

Depends on whether the truck has been maintained properly, and things like timing belt/water pump were changed at 90K as recommended. Also, with that mileage you should be concerned with when shocks/brakes/tires were replaced, when trans and differential fluid was changed, when radiator was flushed & coolant replaced. Also whether all recalls were completed. As you already said, it looks good so now you need to look further and see if there's some hidden reason he's decided to unload it.

I forgot to mention the brake TSB, which was issues to replace front calipers, rotors, and lots of other brake parts. I have an '02 SR5 and I had the TSB performed and got over $2K worth of bigger new parts replaced for free. Early Gen 1 Tundras had a high incidence of brake problems unless the TSB was performed.

I'd grill him hard about what transmission maintenance he's done. With a supercharger, that driveline is pushed pretty hard, so....

If you seriously consider getting this truck I'd recommend you contact JBTOY as he's got one fine ol' supercharged Tundra and he could give you some pointers on what to check on that for sure.

If you seriously consider getting this truck I'd recommend you contact JBTOY as he's got one fine ol' supercharged Tundra and he could give you some pointers on what to check on that for sure.

I was going to post on this, and you led me in. Thanks for the comment!

To the OP:

As noted, check all of the basic and important items for maintenance records for frequency, replacements, etc.

Check the brakes for the TSB, or "aftermarket" upgrades (I did aftermarket and skipped the TSB).

Find out how many miles on that SC since install. Any changes to belts, pulleys, etc. Any oil change for the SC? Miles on the SC would be important
to know, before I could add to the list and not worry you.

How many miles on the current plugs, or last time new ones installed? Not hard to replace, but, another
$ item you want to avoid replacing as soon as you pull in the driveway, as we say.

Ask/check if rear end is still stock. Has it had any service or MAJOR repairs done. I know some folks have blown out
the gears being a little rough on them with the SC and/or lack of proper maintenance.

When checking records, look for driving trends per year. For example, first 6 years, shows truck accumulated 120,000 or 20k per year.
Last 4 years shows 32,000 or 8K per year. What I look for here is high use in a very short time, and then low use later on or to see
if the average annual seems to have a balance. Did the truck sit for 3 years due to "x". Many factors come into play, besides
what is total mileage on the truck. How did the miles add up is a small detail to know, because it also reflects on maintenance, etc.

Assuming the truck is not a long drive to see it, go check it out. Price seems fair, depending on many conditions that we cannot see
or know about from limited info so far.

Ask indirectly, if he has any 1/8 or 1/4 mile time slips. If people race, they like to brag about it. That detail is important
to know if he pushed the truck hard, or, did he just play with the extra power when needed (meaning, how much work has the SC/motor really seen)

If the truck passes your inspection, has excellent records, then, final test is the "drive". Tranny should shift smoothly. No lurching from any
drive line components. The SC should make you "smile" when it wakes up. You will know, when you push the pedal. Please only do this
on a secure road or open access highway. You will be going very fast, and too quick for residential roads:eek:

Any doubts or Q's, report back here what you learned, and many folks here can help with opinions on
if you found a gem, or a ticking time bomb. Worth the look see for now. Good Luck.

Nice input JBTOY, I knew you'd give him straight poop about the S/C & more. Thanks

before I get something nice....upgrade to something nicer. :td:




maybe you mean something that comes with a higher monthly payment? ;)

What they all said. ^^
As for the price (if it's all perfect), $7,500 isn't bad for trucks around here, even though I'd offer him like $7k. It has high miles which would lower the price, but it has the supercharger which brings the price back up. :rolleyes:
If anything major seems to be wrong with it, I'd walk away and get back on here to see what people say.

I'd grill him hard about what transmission maintenance he's done. With a supercharger, that driveline is pushed pretty hard, so....
Thanks. I did some research on the Tundra before I posted and saw the transmission issues in the early ones. He said he hasn't had any issues with it. The timing belt was changed and done on time. He's the second owner.

I was going to post on this, and you led me in. Thanks for the comment!

To the OP:

As noted, check all of the basic and important items for maintenance records for frequency, replacements, etc.

Check the brakes for the TSB, or "aftermarket" upgrades (I did aftermarket and skipped the TSB).

Find out how many miles on that SC since install. Any changes to belts, pulleys, etc. Any oil change for the SC? Miles on the SC would be important
to know, before I could add to the list and not worry you.

How many miles on the current plugs, or last time new ones installed? Not hard to replace, but, another
$ item you want to avoid replacing as soon as you pull in the driveway, as we say.

Ask/check if rear end is still stock. Has it had any service or MAJOR repairs done. I know some folks have blown out
the gears being a little rough on them with the SC and/or lack of proper maintenance.

When checking records, look for driving trends per year. For example, first 6 years, shows truck accumulated 120,000 or 20k per year.
Last 4 years shows 32,000 or 8K per year. What I look for here is high use in a very short time, and then low use later on or to see
if the average annual seems to have a balance. Did the truck sit for 3 years due to "x". Many factors come into play, besides
what is total mileage on the truck. How did the miles add up is a small detail to know, because it also reflects on maintenance, etc.

Assuming the truck is not a long drive to see it, go check it out. Price seems fair, depending on many conditions that we cannot see
or know about from limited info so far.

Ask indirectly, if he has any 1/8 or 1/4 mile time slips. If people race, they like to brag about it. That detail is important
to know if he pushed the truck hard, or, did he just play with the extra power when needed (meaning, how much work has the SC/motor really seen)

If the truck passes your inspection, has excellent records, then, final test is the "drive". Tranny should shift smoothly. No lurching from any
drive line components. The SC should make you "smile" when it wakes up. You will know, when you push the pedal. Please only do this
on a secure road or open access highway. You will be going very fast, and too quick for residential roads:eek:

Any doubts or Q's, report back here what you learned, and many folks here can help with opinions on
if you found a gem, or a ticking time bomb. Worth the look see for now. Good Luck.
Thank you for this. I'll print it out and bring it with me. I'm mechanically inclined and rebuilt a few trucks in the past but I don't want to drop money and have problems right away.

How many miles is the SC good for? If it came from the dealer with it, should I walk away?

:td:




maybe you mean something that comes with a higher monthly payment? ;)
No joke. I used to drive a 2001 Dakota Quad Cab :o that I paid 4500 for back in 2007. It had 125,000 on it from the original owner because he commuted. Paid it off in six months. Did normal maintenance but ended up having to change the clutch and some other things expected out of a engine ran that hard in that many miles. I moved from Hawaii last year and gave it to my parents (I rejoined the military and couldn't ship it) and still miss it. Paid off, ran great and did what I needed. I Bought a 23K FJ as a "gift" to myself and have been dreading the payment ever since even though it's much nicer.

Now I'm looking for something cheaper. I kind of miss driving a cheap truck in a way. Only reason I'll consider an upgrade after this is having kids.

I'll let you guys know how it goes. I got an appointment on Saturday.

Now I'm looking for something cheaper. I kind of miss driving a cheap truck in a way. Only reason I'll consider an upgrade after this is having kids.



Before I offer more, go see the truck. I hope your constant reference to a cheaper truck has to do with payments and nothing more, otherwise, I wasted my time.
There is nothing cheap about a quality First Gen Tundra. You may want to do a little more research on this ride, if you are not sure what it is all about as pro's and con's.
Let us know what you find when you check it out. Your credibility will be enhanced, AFTER you report on status of this truck.

If you don't buy it I will. :devil:

Before I offer more, go see the truck. I hope your constant reference to a cheaper truck has to do with payments and nothing more, otherwise, I wasted my time.
There is nothing cheap about a quality First Gen Tundra. You may want to do a little more research on this ride, if you are not sure what it is all about as pro's and con's.
Let us know what you find when you check it out. Your credibility will be enhanced, AFTER you report on status of this truck.
I am refering to the payments and nothing else. I know they're not cheaply built which is why I'm looking at one. I've owned three Toyota trucks so far and don't want to drive anything else. I've always wanted a first gen since they came out but decided to buy a FJ even though I won't offroad in it cause it costs too much.

jamesjr4750 should be able to give a lot of insite as well on a sc truck. as for what im seeing mileage wise and year i think its fair. i bought my 01 back in 08 when gas was crazy high. i bought it from my step dad at trade in value of 5000 with 120000 miles on it. the kbb private party value on it at that time was around 8000 so 7500 seams decent. hell my excellent private party value with 185000 miles is still i think around 4500-5000.

jamesjr4750 should be able to give a lot of insite as well on a sc truck. as for what im seeing mileage wise and year i think its fair. i bought my 01 back in 08 when gas was crazy high. i bought it from my step dad at trade in value of 5000 with 120000 miles on it. the kbb private party value on it at that time was around 8000 so 7500 seams decent. hell my excellent private party value with 185000 miles is still i think around 4500-5000.
Have you had any problems with the miles that high? I see posts around here with guys pushing 250k +

Have you had any problems with the miles that high? I see posts around here with guys pushing 250k +

excluding the stuff i caused/messed up no (i messed up my headlights trying to make the fogs work while the brights were one). i have only had one semi major problem. the starter went out on me at about163k miles. the only reason i say semi major is because the starter is under the intake manafold and thus that has to be removed to get to the starter. the tranny shifts great the truck runs great. she pulls hard. i have had minor bs that everyone has had probably. i had exhaust leaks but with the headers on the truck you are looking at you should be fine. i had o2 sensors go bad, another easy fix. honestly thats all the stuff that has gone wrong. ooo yea and my ac fan motor is about to die on me but i just ordered a new one for $50. another extremely easy fix. with any high mileage vehicle u will have little nick nack stuff but nothing major. my brakes are great, drive line is good, frame and all is in excellent shape. i love the truck.

excluding the stuff i caused/messed up no (i messed up my headlights trying to make the fogs work while the brights were one). i have only had one semi major problem. the starter went out on me at about163k miles. the only reason i say semi major is because the starter is under the intake manafold and thus that has to be removed to get to the starter. the tranny shifts great the truck runs great. she pulls hard. i have had minor bs that everyone has had probably. i had exhaust leaks but with the headers on the truck you are looking at you should be fine. i had o2 sensors go bad, another easy fix. honestly thats all the stuff that has gone wrong. ooo yea and my ac fan motor is about to die on me but i just ordered a new one for $50. another extremely easy fix. with any high mileage vehicle u will have little nick nack stuff but nothing major. my brakes are great, drive line is good, frame and all is in excellent shape. i love the truck.
Sounds better than my old Dakota. Once I rolled 150K I needed to replace the water pump, PS pump, rack and hose, radiator hose and coupling, and finally my T.O. bearing shattered and took the clutch with it. Despite all that it was a decent truck for the price.

Sounds better than my old Dakota. Once I rolled 150K I needed to replace the water pump, PS pump, rack and hose, radiator hose and coupling, and finally my T.O. bearing shattered and took the clutch with it. Despite all that it was a decent truck for the price.

now they do recomend to change the water pump every time you do the timing belt. but i love my trundra. my next truck will be a second gen. and until someone makes a truck that out lasts the tundra im sticking with yota

So update on the truck and what I saw when I checked it out this morning.

The truck was in decent shape. No dents or rust. The paint was faded so it definitely needs a good professional wax job to bring it back. The leather captain's chairs are starting to crack but not a big deal.

The truck is all TRD. Guy didn't really know much about it. He bought it off a Dr. two years ago who was the original owner. TRD exhaust, TRD wheels, TRD Supercharger. I'm guessing the first owner just went nuts at the dealership when ordering it. The guy has all the paperwork and maintenance documents including the waterpump and timing belt. The underside looked good. Interior was clean. A/C worked well and so did the heater.

Everything was going fine until he said he has a CEL. That's where I started to get nervous because I don't want to inherit someone's problems. It makes me very wary since I plan to move to SOCAL with my future wife and have to deal with smog checks. The guy took me to auto zone to have it checked out and it threw code P0441 so I'm researching what that is right now. It appears to be the emission control system (not good). He was also honest about it throwing a O2 sensor code but it didn't show up this time.

The engine ran great, tranny shifted buttery smooth. I was surprised at the pickup on it. Very fast for a truck. I couldn't test drive it cause the guy took insurance off it and it just sits in his yard :rolleyes:. Although, I could see him be wary about letting everyone test drive because I'm sure he gets a fair share of tire kickers.

I talked about price and the guy said his wife put the $7500 tag on it and he originally wanted 8k. He says he doesn't want to go lower than 7.5K. Apparently the supercharger and exhaust should add 3k to book values.

I'm on the fence but leaning towards walking away unless I can talk him down a bit more. I need to do some more research on the CEL.

P0441 is
an Evaporative Emission Control System Incorrect Purge Flow fault.
The FSM lists the following as possible causes for this fault:

Vacuum hose cracks, holed, blocked, damaged or disconnected
EVAP hose and air inlet line

Fuel tank cap incorrectly installed
Fuel tank cap cracked or damaged
Open or short in vapor pressure sensor circuit

Vapor pressure sensor
Open or short in VSV circuit for EVAP
VSV for EVAP
Open or short in VSV circuit for CCV
VSV for CCV
Fuel tank cracked, holed or damaged
Charcoal canister cracked, holed or damaged
Fuel tank overfill check valve cracked or damaged

ECM

Considering the above, the additional O2 sensor issue, the faded paint, and 168K miles on the supercharger I'd recommend you walk away at this point. Bounce it off JBTOY but I believe he'll say the supercharger probably needs rebuilding.

Yah, I'm thinking about just walking away. Seems like more of a headache than it's worth. I'm very good at fixing things, but I don't need to be doing it every weekend. Nice truck, but it seems too much like someone's problems. Anyone else have thoughts on this?

after you freshen up the blower and do the couple of things it needs night now to clear the code, you'll be left with simple routine maintenance so don't think it's gonna be that much work every weekend. the big expense is gettng the blower worked on. everything else is easy-peasy. it won't be taking up more than 4-5 days of regular maintenance per year unless you get the mod-bug and go nuts with it.

after you freshen up the blower and do the couple of things it needs night now to clear the code, you'll be left with simple routine maintenance so don't think it's gonna be that much work every weekend. the big expense is gettng the blower worked on. everything else is easy-peasy. it won't be taking up more than 4-5 days of regular maintenance per year unless you get the mod-bug and go nuts with it.
That's why I'm on the fence with it. It's a solid truck with the options I want (2wd, ext cab, leather) but I'm not real sure what needs to be done to it. How often does a blower need to be refreshed and what does it cost? I've read various things about the CEL code, which is probably an easy fix (loose clamp or hole in line, switch not working, etc).

I'm trying to figure out a fair price to offer him without insulting him. It needs a bit of work which I can do myself, but I'm not willing to pay over KBB just because of a blower and some mods. He's trying to get retail NADA (which obviously this truck doesn't meet, for one he's private party and it also has a CEL on, which scares off buyers). I'm thinking around 6500-7000 on the offer.

To clarify, I just emailed him to check his paperwork for when the S/C was put in. It seems like he bought it from an enthusiast and is bored with it now after getting a new Tahoe. It just sits in his driveway.

He didn't know the brand of headers (looked like TRD but trying to figure it out), didn't know exhaust (said borla but I think that's just his generic go to brand), didn't know when any of the work was done to it. He's only used it for two years or so. He said the check engine light came on but it didn't affect performance so he hasn't had time to fix it.

It seems like he's under the impression he's sitting on a gold mine for the simple fact that it has a supercharger. He knows next to nothing about the rest of it.

So, I hate to keep posting but I pulled the maintenance report after getting the VIN.

It appears that it's only been driven 8k miles in the last two years.

In OCT 2010 at 160K the truck was towed to the dealer because "owner heard a loud pop on start up and oil started leaking from beneath it" :eek:. It doesn't say what repair was done to it. It also went to the dealer in May 2010 for a cylinder misfire light which was fixed by changing the plugs and wires.

In 2009 the same EVAP code popped and was fixed with the gas cap so it seems to be a system problem.

It doesn't start showing records until 2006 in the Toyota Database.

Thinking of throwing a low ball offer and seeing if he bites. Otherwise I'm going to keep looking. Truck seems like a headache waiting to happen.

To clarify, I just emailed him to check his paperwork for when the S/C was put in. It seems like he bought it from an enthusiast and is bored with it now after getting a new Tahoe. It just sits in his driveway.

He didn't know the brand of headers (looked like TRD but trying to figure it out), didn't know exhaust (said borla but I think that's just his generic go to brand), didn't know when any of the work was done to it. He's only used it for two years or so. He said the check engine light came on but it didn't affect performance so he hasn't had time to fix it.

It seems like he's under the impression he's sitting on a gold mine for the simple fact that it has a supercharger. He knows next to nothing about the rest of it.

Glad to see you checked it out and are questioning properly to learn as much as you can.

If the SC has had no work and has over 100K miles on it, it does need to be refreshed. It could be rebuilt or just an oil change
and full inspection at a minimum. Sounds like he bought it for a toy and lost interest. It sat for 2 years is a little unusual. That means the
168K miles were done over about 8 years, or 21k yr average. He is sitting on a gold mind only for the right buyer. The SC is nice, but,
not the end all for the truck. Actually the SC may scare buyers away with that many miles.

Surprised he knows little about the truck. Appears he did not have serious interest in it. He seems fair about sharing info, but, I would do a little more shopping around
and see if if you can find another truck to work with. There are some good used Tundras out there for sure.

Throw a fair low ball offer and see if he bites. If not, I think looking around more as you just posted would be a better
bet in the long run. Good Luck.

**I just saw your post about 160K in first 8 years, and only 8K in last 2. My math is off a little in above, but, the point is the same.

Glad to see you checked it out and are questioning properly to learn as much as you can.

If the SC has had no work and has over 100K miles on it, it does need to be refreshed. It could be rebuilt or just an oil change
and full inspection at a minimum. Sounds like he bought it for a toy and lost interest. It sat for 2 years is a little unusual. That means the
168K miles were done over about 8 years, or 21k yr average. He is sitting on a gold mind only for the right buyer. The SC is nice, but,
not the end all for the truck. Actually the SC may scare buyers away with that many miles.

Surprised he knows little about the truck. Appears he did not have serious interest in it. He seems fair about sharing info, but, I would do a little more shopping around
and see if if you can find another truck to work with. There are some good used Tundras out there for sure.

Throw a fair low ball offer and see if he bites. If not, I think looking around more as you just posted would be a better
bet in the long run. Good Luck.

**I just saw your post about 160K in first 8 years, and only 8K in last 2. My math is off a little in above, but, the point is the same.
Thanks for the post.

Given the history of the truck and it's current problems I think I may offer fair value for KBB which is around 6200. If not, I'll walk and be willing to spend a bit more to get something in better shape.

The truck is nice but when you consider paint and headlights needs restoring, it has a check engine light, the high miles, the seats are cracking and it's been sitting for two years I don't think it quite qualifies in the KBB good category, S/C or not.

So the previous owner put on 160k in 8 years. 5 of those years with a S/C on it. Than the new owner took ownership and hasn't driven it more than 8k miles.

The guy said it's his daily driver. I emailed him about the maintenance report and am going to call the dealer tomorrow to see if any work was actually done to it after being towed in. I'm thinking the original driver probably traded in and this guy ended up buying it. I could be wrong. It'll be interesting to see what he says. But it seems like the guy just got sick of the truck.

Something doesn't add up. He has been trying to sell it for 7 months though. I'm in no rush to buy and don't really need a one for four more months. So I can play the waiting game.

Sounds like a good truck for good price to me


Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app

Sounds like a good truck for good price to me


Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app
What price? It's definitely not worth KBB excellent condition. MODS don't add any value to the truck. If anything, it becomes a liability as it gets older.

Around 6k$ sounds ok to me. Let's see if I can do some bargaining.

If it were me, I'd walk away unless he takes a low ball offer.

If it were me, I'd walk away unless he takes a low ball offer.
I'm leaning towards this. I'm going to throw a lowball offer and probably walk away. I'm sure I can find something better for the price. Who seriously tries to sell a truck without letting a buyer test drive it?

Guy just emailed me and said he put a new engine in it when it was towed to the dealer. Asked if he had a receipt for it and am waiting to hear back. I guess that changes some things.

It sounds to me like there has been quite a few issues with this truck. What else is wrong with it that he's not telling you? You might buy it and it turns out to be a great truck, but is it worth the risk?

Guy just emailed me and said he put a new engine in it when it was towed to the dealer. Asked if he had a receipt for it and am waiting to hear back. I guess that changes some things.

Yikes! That could be good or bad. Depends. What happened to the original engine? Did he say?

What does "new" engine mean? Was it really new or just a low mileage replacement? How many miles on this
new engine? Like pulling teeth with this guy. I wonder if he has more surprises? This causes more questioning to find out the full back story on this truck.

Keep digging. I wonder why the truck has not sold in 7 months as you posted? Maybe, he is holding out
for highest offer because of the SC, or is the truck history (other conditions) too cloudy? Not sure.

Keep us posted. Starting to look like a journey, unless you just walk away now.

Yikes! That could be good or bad. Depends. What happened to the original engine? Did he say?

What does "new" engine mean? Was it really new or just a low mileage replacement? How many miles on this
new engine? Like pulling teeth with this guy. I wonder if he has more surprises? This causes more questioning to find out the full back story on this truck.

Keep digging. I wonder why the truck has not sold in 7 months as you posted? Maybe, he is holding out
for highest offer because of the SC, or is the truck history (other conditions) too cloudy? Not sure.

Keep us posted. Starting to look like a journey, unless you just walk away now.
Not sure what happened to the original motor. Toyota records show he went to start the truck one morning and heard a loud boom followed by oil spilling out of it. It was towed to the dealer. I'm guessing it blew on start up. I have no idea how.

He sent me the receipt last night. An independent shop put the new engine at 160k in Oct 2010. Total cost was $1900. The receipt only had a work order for R&R work and new gaskets so I'm waiting to hear back from where the engine came from and if it's truly a "new" engine. I'm pretty sure it is or a reman block from somewhere. The guy doesn't seem like the type to put in a junk yard block.

The rest of the records check out through Toyota.

He didn't really withhold information he just answers questions when I ask them. He said I could call the original owner and talk to him about the truck if I wanted to. He has been able to provide every receipt I ask for so that's a plus.

As for why the truck hasn't sold? I'm guessing because the economy around here is terrible and not that many people are buying trucks. He's had it listed for $7500 for quite sometime (2+ months). I'm waiting to hear back about the engine and what was put in before I decide on an offer. If it truly is a new block I might up my offer a bit and be more willing to take a chance. I do know for sure that it was installed at a reputable shop. So the EVAP CEL might be a loose hose from the install.

My quest continues. :tu:

The rest of the records check out through Toyota.

He didn't really withhold information he just answers questions when I ask them. He said I could call the original owner and talk to him about the truck if I wanted to. He has been able to provide every receipt I ask for so that's a plus.

My quest continues. :tu:

Good stuff. I do not want to slant or question the guy if he has been straight up. Sounds like he is playing
more than fair. I guess if you ask enough questions, you will certainly know a lot about this purchase up front.

Having a new or lower mileage engine adds value at this point. Interesting.

Stay tuned, as you say.

i'd take him up on his offer and call the original owner

Yes, the guy is playing more than fair. He doesn't withhold anything. He gave me the VIN and every service record I asked for. He even had the original documents for the S/C.

I thought at first he was hiding something but he was honest about the first engine and putting in a new one so I can't fault him on that. I'm waiting to hear back about the block but so far everything checks out.

Only hits I can find is the EVAP CEL, and the lether on the driver's seat will need to be replaced. Shouldn't be too much money. And the truck will need a pro detailing to bring the shine back.

What price? It's definitely not worth KBB excellent condition. MODS don't add any value to the truck. If anything, it becomes a liability as it gets older.

Around 6k$ sounds ok to me. Let's see if I can do some bargaining.

If mods don't add value then why does KBB ask what is on the vechicle, in this case does it have: running boards, grill guard, bed liner, upgraded wheels, bed cover..... you get the idea. so they do add value. Some of them might not be recognized by KBB but that isn't how i would determine the value of things.

I am not sure what you are talking about or what KBB number you are getting. when i put in a 2002 access cab only using a SR5 package, and assuming you konw what you are talking about with the TRD package (as the TRD is for a 4wd, and thought you mentioned this was a 2WD?) with the 168,xxx miles, and the good condition price. And that won't take into account teh SC, and teh Borla exhaust which is a nice exhaust system.

As far as the paint and seats... what do you expect it is a 10 year old vehicle. All of that is going to happen with time, and having to wax it wouldn't be a deal breaker, in fact it should be done after you get any vehicle anyway so you know it is protected.

Really good vehicle to me and the CEL is all fixable and all small.

I'm waiting to hear back about the block but so far everything checks out.

the lether on the driver's seat will need to be replaced. Shouldn't be too much money. And the truck will need a pro detailing to bring the shine back.



What does it matter about the block or not?? Take a mechanic with you if he won't let you drive it, and one that is familiar with Toyota and aftermarket mods, since it appears you are not familiar with them. IT IS A 10 YEAR OLD TRUCK. It will be a used transaction with no warranty so you need to be realistic on what you should expect.

I do'nt care either way, but seem really picky about a car seat that can be covered by a seat cover for very little $$, and pro detailers don't do anything special when waxing that you can't do on your own. They are just getting paid to do something that you can do.....

If mods don't add value then why does KBB ask what is on the vechicle, in this case does it have: running boards, grill guard, bed liner, upgraded wheels, bed cover..... you get the idea. so they do add value. Some of them might not be recognized by KBB but that isn't how i would determine the value of things.

I am not sure what you are talking about or what KBB number you are getting. when i put in a 2002 access cab only using a SR5 package, and assuming you konw what you are talking about with the TRD package (as the TRD is for a 4wd, and thought you mentioned this was a 2WD?) with the 168,xxx miles, and the good condition price. And that won't take into account teh SC, and teh Borla exhaust which is a nice exhaust system.

As far as the paint and seats... what do you expect it is a 10 year old vehicle. All of that is going to happen with time, and having to wax it wouldn't be a deal breaker, in fact it should be done after you get any vehicle anyway so you know it is protected.

Really good vehicle to me and the CEL is all fixable and all small.
MODS hardly add any value when it comes to the engine and suspension. The mods you listed do not change any of the driving characteristics or reliability and only reflect a very small amount in price if anything at all. The market prices cars according to what they were equipped with from the factory. Modifications become a sunk cost past a certain price point. Dealers see it has a liability on trades and most of the general public does too.


What does it matter about the block or not?? Take a mechanic with you if he won't let you drive it, and one that is familiar with Toyota and aftermarket mods, since it appears you are not familiar with them. IT IS A 10 YEAR OLD TRUCK. It will be a used transaction with no warranty so you need to be realistic on what you should expect.

I do'nt care either way, but seem really picky about a car seat that can be covered by a seat cover for very little $$, and pro detailers don't do anything special when waxing that you can't do on your own. They are just getting paid to do something that you can do.....
It matters because I want to know what I am buying. I'm very familiar with cars and have owned three Toyota trucks. If the block is re-manufactured it makes a huge difference than if the block came from a junk yard engine with 80k on it.

I am being realistic. Unlike most buyers, I do my research and don't jump blindly because it has some cool parts on it.

And the seats are leather. I like leather and if it's completely cracked then I have to redo them or order a cover. More $$$. If it needs a good waxing to bring the shine back, once again, more $$$. If I have to track down the check engine light and evap system, more time and $$$.

It appears I do know what I am talking about. Good condition to me means the everything is in perfect working order. It's my money so yes, I will be concerned about every little thing on the vehicle I intend to drive.

And I'm not pulling the numbers out of no where. I'm using all of the available market values including KBB, Edmunds, and NADA.

Got an email from him. Looks like the engine put in came from a 2004 with 65K on it so now it has about 73k total. Not too bad. It came from a legitimate engine place that tracks down salvage engines. He has everything for it. Things are looking much nicer than I thought.

If mods don't add value then why does KBB ask what is on the vechicle, in this case does it have: running boards, grill guard, bed liner, upgraded wheels, bed cover..... you get the idea. so they do add value. Some of them might not be recognized by KBB but that isn't how i would determine the value of things.

I am not sure what you are talking about or what KBB number you are getting. when i put in a 2002 access cab only using a SR5 package, and assuming you konw what you are talking about with the TRD package (as the TRD is for a 4wd, and thought you mentioned this was a 2WD?) with the 168,xxx miles, and the good condition price. And that won't take into account teh SC, and teh Borla exhaust which is a nice exhaust system.

As far as the paint and seats... what do you expect it is a 10 year old vehicle. All of that is going to happen with time, and having to wax it wouldn't be a deal breaker, in fact it should be done after you get any vehicle anyway so you know it is protected.

Really good vehicle to me and the CEL is all fixable and all small.

For your average person, mods can either mean nothing or scare them away from the truck. To the right person, yes, mods add value. Good luck finding that person. To you they may be a must have for every day use and look cool, but to your average person, they look like crap and begin to question the safety of the vehicle. I myself like a STOCK truck and wouldn't want a souped up truck that somebody messed with. And that is what most people are looking for, a stock vehicle, not one loaded with aftermarket mods.

My opinion on mods is that lifts look like crap, engine mods make me question how long before a problem occurs, and super loud exhaust systems turn me off. Things such as bull bars, bigger tires, HID lighting, and assorted stereo add ons such as subs are not practical. Custom paint and flashy rims destroy the look of the truck. But that's just my opinion.

Buyers may not need things like camper shells, tanneau covers, tool boxes, and while they may be nice to have, running boards and bug/rock deflectors are not a necessity, so they don't factor these into the cost.

Do some searches on here as well, when people decide it's time to sell, everybody recommends that all mods are removed and sold separately to recover as much cash as possible. Why do you think this is? Simple, mods add no value. The only thing that should be applied to KBB, NADA, etc... is factory options and packages.

I would be just as picky as the OP condition-wise and as to what has been done on the engine.

I contacted the guy and asked if I could come take another look. I said I want to test drive, check out the paperwork and look it over before making an offer.

Guy writes back saying I can't test drive it because he has no insurance and he would be liable. He said the only way I can test drive is by buying it and that he is firm at $7500.

So I wrote back, I'll give you 7K right now. I think that's fair based on the fact I can't test drive it and the check engine light being on. He says that he has a "few other people" just as interested in me but he'll consider it. He told me that he's not behind on his bills and the truck is doing fine just sitting in his driveway.

Hit him back with "your choice, if you come around you know my number". Meanwhile, I started looking for a couple different tundras since this guy is under the impression his supercharger is gold plated. I'm kind of done dealing with the dude. The truck doesn't even have the OEM motor anymore because he blew it up.

Dude, Just walk away.

NOBODY buys a truck without test driving it. Doesn't your insurance cover you when you test drive vehicle you are considering purchasing?

Tell the guy to put on his big-girl panties and hand over the keys. If he doesn't, run away.

His disallowing a test-drive is idiotic -- and a huge red flag. If he comes back to your $7K offer, tell him his waiting just dropped it to $6,500. At the very least, you can remove all the SC components and sell it private party and recoup a couple grand or more.

His disallowing a test-drive is idiotic -- and a huge red flag. If he comes back to your $7K offer, tell him his waiting just dropped it to $6,500. At the very least, you can remove all the SC components and sell it private party and recoup a couple grand or more.
That was my original plan. I have no need or want for a S/C. I figured I could take a risk and get a Tundra for a decent price after dumping the S/C.

I wrote in an email, do you really expect to sell a truck without a test drive? You cannot be serious but I'll take the risk (I knew he would say no that's why I said it). Apparently, he does fully expect for someone to hand over KBB+ before driving it.

And yes, I'm positive my insurance would cover me.

I doubt he's going to get his asking price while refusing to allow all potential buyers to test drive the truck. Does he think he has a highly prized collectible or something? He's not selling a Picasso painting here to hang in your man cave. :-)

I figured I could take a risk and get a Tundra for a decent price after dumping the S/C.

I wrote in an email, do you really expect to sell a truck without a test drive? You cannot be serious but I'll take the risk (I knew he would say no that's why I said it). Apparently, he does fully expect for someone to hand over KBB+ before driving it.

This guy has it all wrong. It has sat for 7 months without selling, and I think it will sit another 7 months with his attitude. This truck is not gaining any value "collecting dust".

I think with all of the work (research) you have put into this, it is time to call him out, and back out. This way, he may think about how he just lost a potential buyer. That
SC is nice, but, it is not the end all as I said in previous post. Anybody that buys WITHOUT a test drive is thinking the same thing as you. (he does have excellent records, receipts,
and backup history) as you noted, so, the truck is not a complete gamble.

Buy for X, sell SC for Y, and have a basically nice Tundra for Z, or about $5,000 or less. !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

This guy has it all wrong. It has sat for 7 months without selling, and I think it will sit another 7 months with his attitude. This truck is not gaining any value "collecting dust".

I think with all of the work (research) you have put into this, it is time to call him out, and back out. This way, he may think about how he just lost a potential buyer. That
SC is nice, but, it is not the end all as I said in previous post. Anybody that buys WITHOUT a test drive is thinking the same thing as you. (he does have excellent records, receipts,
and backup history) as you noted, so, the truck is not a complete gamble.

Buy for X, sell SC for Y, and have a basically nice Tundra for Z, or about $5,000 or less. !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I backed out. I emailed him "you know where to find me, funds are ready to change hands if you want it". But, realistically, I'll probably tell him no way after all of this.

The truck isn't a gamble, but I would still like a test drive and I think him knocking 500$ off his price for a check engine light and other issues is more than fair. He doesn't think so. I told him it's a huge risk for me to buy without a test drive but he still insists that the right buyer will come along and give him $7500. He'd rather wait with it rotting in his yard instead of cutting his loss.

I bought my FJ sight unseen, but it was also a 4 year old vehicle from a Lexus dealership, not a 10 year old truck with a bunch of different parts on it.

At this point, I'm 99.8% sure I'm going to look for a newer Tundra. I don't need one until November so I'm sure a good deal will pop up on CL or cars.com.

1. I backed out.....


2. The truck isn't a gamble...


3. I bought my FJ sight unseen, but it was also a 4 year old vehicle from a Lexus dealership, not a 10 year old truck with a bunch of different parts on it.

4. At this point, I'm 99.8% sure I'm going to look for a newer Tundra. I don't need one until November so I'm sure a good deal will pop up on CL or cars.com.

1. Good.
2. Yes, it is absolutely a gamble until you drive it.
3. Were you able to drive it before you signed the final paperwork? Or were you given a guarantee truck was exactly as described and a 30 day period to return it?
4. Good call. Don't forget about ebay and autotrader.

Now, send me that guys number. I'll buy it for $7500 as is as long as he lets me hear it run.











j/k!

That guy is crazy trying to sell that truck, for that price, without a test drive.
You should walk away and forget about that truck.
What part of Florida are you in? There has been a few decent Tundras on Craigslist in my area.

1. Good.
2. Yes, it is absolutely a gamble until you drive it.
3. Were you able to drive it before you signed the final paperwork? Or were you given a guarantee truck was exactly as described and a 30 day period to return it?
4. Good call. Don't forget about ebay and autotrader.

Now, send me that guys number. I'll buy it for $7500 as is as long as he lets me hear it run.











j/k!
I paid for the FJ but I'm sure if I didn't like it when I flew in to pick it up they would have let me walk away. I didn't sign the final paperwork until getting there.

That guy is crazy trying to sell that truck, for that price, without a test drive.
You should walk away and forget about that truck.
What part of Florida are you in? There has been a few decent Tundras on Craigslist in my area.
Pensacola. I'm willing to travel within reason though.

Oh. I'm close to Tampa. Pensacola is a little far away. :rolleyes: