Hi all,
i am new member. I have a 2010 Sequoia I purchased new. With the purchase they gave us free oil changes for 2 years. Usaully i prefer to do my own mostly because its just more conveniant for me and I like knowing it was done my way. While not new to changing oil as i am sure you all know the Sequoia has a twist, the Oil Filter is canister / elemement style. So my question is how do i change and drain the oil filter? While I am asking any tips on replacing would be appreciated as well. Sorry for such a silly question its just that i am totally unfamilar with this set up. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Removing and installing skid plate is what's so time consuming on these things. I usually just leave the skid plate off on ours. Go get the filter cap wrench. Don't forget to reset oil life maintenance reminder. I always use Motorola 5W-20 and Wix filter.

Removing and installing skid plate is what's so time consuming on these things. I usually just leave the skid plate off on ours. Go get the filter cap wrench. Don't forget to reset oil life maintenance reminder. I always use Motorola 5W-20 and Wix filter.


Thank you for the feedback. I guess what i am still a little stumped with is how do i remove the oil filter and replace it. I know its sounds like a silly question but this one is not like the ones i am used to. Typiocally i screw of entire filter and screw new one back on. The Sequoia is just changng the element and i am not familar with this set up.

You've got to go buy the cap wrench (don't know if that's the actual name) that fits on the end of the filter housing. Got mine at Toyota dealer. Drop your skidplate, put the cap wrench on the end of the filter housing and use your socket wrench to spin it off. When you get it off you'll see the soft filter element inside- slip it out and slip the new one in and spin the filter housing back on snug.

Here's a video of changing oil filter on a newer model Tundra. I think it's quite similar to the Sequoia. Note - The video mentions the torque on the drain plug in "Newtons", which is equal to 110 in/pounds (not ft/pounds). An inch/pound torque wrench is required to measure that accurately.

2007 Tundra Oil Change Video - Advance Auto Parts » Demonstration » Advance Auto Parts Video (http://video.advanceautoparts.com/v/15377/2007-tundra-oil-change-video-advance-auto-parts-demonstration/)

Great video however the OEM Toyota filter kit does not have a threaded plastic drain valve, it snaps in place. The small o-ring needs to be removed first or the valve will not seat and oil will run down your arm while you try and push it into place. :mad: Perhaps that's changed as I bought a 10 pack of filters when my 08 was new. I'll see if I can find the link to pics and instructions I downloaded in the past.

Try reading/printing this: http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/tundra/104260-diy-oil-change-w-pics-reset/

Also you want to make sure you use a 65mm wrench. The 67-65mm will do the trick but you will need to put a rag on the cap and then put the wrench on otherwise it won't fit tight and it will just slip off. The 65 on the other hand is a perfect fit.

I was in the same boat as you, I have had the dealer do all service work up until they screwed me on a brake job and now I have taken over
on all the stuff I feel comfortable with. Changing the oil is pretty easy and the cartridge filter is not nearly as messy as the old style screw on filters. I also changed the fluid in the transfer case and both diffs in another hour or so, that is easier than an oil change! I can tell you
the dealer is NOT following torque specs after what I had to go through loosening the oil drain plug and the oil filter housing.

IDK Gizmo?? The 5.7L Sequoia is by far the most Pain in the Ass (PITA) and messy Oil change I have ever done. I've changed oil myself for 20 years, Geo Metros to Over the road Semi, Farm tractors, cars, trucks, SUVs I've changed it. I maintain 5 vehicles, I only own 2 of them. The Sequoia is a straight mess!! Give me a screw on filter any day. The oil comes out of the drain plug on the sequoia with such force if you do not use a 5 gallon bucket to catch it, it sprays all over the passenger side tire and wheel and all over the ground after bouncing off or out of a standard depth oil catch pan. Then the PITA of removing the skid plate!! You will break the plastic tabs holding the lower front bumper cover to the side plate. Might as well just use Ty-raps so you can just cut them off each time. Draining the filter housing is a mess every time. I have the OEM toyota filter (I buy them by the case) with the Plastic drain piece for the housing and it is still a mess!! The damn fluted filter wrench needed to unscrew the filter housing always sticks and I have to use a screw driver to pry it off. I love my Sequoia but I HATE to do the Oil change and I refuse to pay the dealer to do substandard overpriced work with there "Bulk" oil.

I have Owned 2 4th Gen (03-09) V6 4Runners. Easiest oil change ever. Filter is mounted on top of the engine. You only get on your back to drain the oil. The drain plug also points straight down and the oil comes out at a reasonable rate of flow. I Know V8 4Runners you have to drop a skid plate like the seqouia but it has a screw on filter!! Had an 05 Camry, Sister-in-law still has i. I still do the oil changes on it, Easy Spin on filter!! Mother-in-laws 4Cyl RAV4, Hate it!! Cartridge filter also, just a smaller scale than the Sequoia, same filter wrench for the housing at least!! :mad:


There is nothing difficult about the Sequoia Oil change but it is a Messy PITA!!!


It would be nice if Toyota would come up with a filter that was used by multiple vehicles. I change oil is 4 different Toyotas and have 4 Different cases of filters on the shelf in the garage!!

The damn fluted filter wrench needed to unscrew the filter housing always sticks and I have to use a screw driver to pry it off.

Sadly, some lube on the inside of the fluted wrench adds to the mess but makes it come off easier. Also, get this wrench: KD Tools model number 3253

Finished my first DIY oil change not long ago and didn't find it that bad. Broke all the bolts loose with my socket then spun them out with a drill. Wrapped the inside of the front passenger wheel with painter's plastic but the oil didn't come close to splashing there anyway? No special technique getting the plastic drain tube on to the filter, just pushed with my thumbs. The filter wrench does get wedged on pretty good, just flip the switch on your socket and give it a quick pop in the opposite direction you were going to unwedge it and it'll come right off.

I did run into a few surprises:
1. Someone failed to reinstall 2 of the bolts holding my skid plate up, as only 3 of the 5 were there.
2. The filter drain plug and filter itself were on there TIGHT!
3. The skid plate has two hooks at the front, but only the one on the passenger side actually "hooks" onto the rail. The other hook is simply braced against the front of the rail.

Really not that bad overall. I'm not dreading the next change as much as I dreaded this one after reading that Tundra thread.

For anyone reading this I would recommend the Toyota Service Tool for the oil filter. I bought an aftermarket job at Advanced Auto Parts and had to cut it off after I broke the welds on it. The Toyota tool works well for our Seq and IS250.
MSWSCCO, glad to hear you got it accomplished. I bypass the drain tube on the filter, but you need to be careful not to spill.

I own a 2008 Tundra 5.7L. I will assume that the oil change in the Sequoia is the same as my truck.
First off, I agree with everyone else that this is the most ridiculous oil change on the planet. Why Toyota decided to go with a canister filter instead of spin on is beyond me. That being said, I have made the oil change quicker and less messy with just a few changes. First off, I cut and made a bolt-on door in my skid plate. It took me a few hours but it now saves me at least 15-30 minutes of farting around removing the entire skid plate. I think I still have pictures that I took of the modification if anyone would like to see them. The door is directly beneath the filter so the oil comes straight out and into an drain pan without going all over the truck.
Secondly, as for the oil shooting out, this is easily remedied if you are a wine drinker! This is something I learned on this forum a few years back. Take an empty wine bottle, put the plastic bung in the end and push it into the filter housing. Voila! All of the oil goes in the bottle and none on your hands or floor! Additionally, putting it in with the bottle give you more leverage and it is a piece of cake to install. Be prepared to be amazed at how much oil comes out! It fills about 3/4 of the 750ml wine bottle!
I believe that there is a better way to put everything back together as well. I feel that the filters come off with so much difficulty because people first put the large plastic housing on and THEN the metal cover. If you look while tightening the metal housing, you are also spinning the plastic housing as well, tightening it way more than it should be. My last oil change, I put the plastic housing in my vice and installed the metal plug on it. I THEN put the entire thing onto the engine and torqued it to the proper specs. I have no leaks and I know the plastic housing will come off easily the next time. I cannot stress enough how easily the filter housing comes off with the proper filter wrench. I am talking about the socket type. My son bought me a good one for Christmas this past year and it works perfectly! They are spendy but worth it. I pissed away money on those cheapo, Taiwan-made wrenches and they are JUNK!!!! If you plan on changing your oil for many years, just bite the bullet and buy the real deal from a dealership.
Hope this helps!

I've done this a couple of times myself. At 1,000, break-in oil out and new oil w/filter installed. Again at 5,000 miles. Then Toyota did it for the 10K, 15K (I paid that time) and it was free the last time at 20K. When I've done it there have been no issues. The darn belly pan is not so light and getting it back into the hanger slot was not so easy, but otherwise no issues. Changed filter and oil on my son's Tundra too. No issues. Helps if you have the right filter socket tool. I have not bought one yet but so far my extra large adjustable pliers have done the job just fine. I like the thread on filter drain plastic tool better than the pop in you get with Toyota filters. Hope you have figured it out and realized that it is not such a bad job to do by now.

I own a 2008 Tundra 5.7L. I will assume that the oil change in the Sequoia is the same as my truck.
... First off, I cut and made a bolt-on door in my skid plate. It took me a few hours but it now saves me at least 15-30 minutes of farting around removing the entire skid plate. I think I still have pictures that I took of the modification if anyone would like to see them....


I would like to see photos of your trap door modification. Thanks for the info. on changing oil. We still have at least one more free oil change at the Toyota dealer and then I'm on my own.

If someone can tell me how to upload the pictures, I'll put them on here for Tundra and Sequoia owners.