2005 tundra double cab oem drive shaft carrier bearing [Archive] - Toyota Tundra Forums : Tundra Solutions Forum

: 2005 tundra double cab oem drive shaft carrier bearing



GORILLA
04-13-2013, 07:35 AM
hi, anyone know who has a oem in stock. i seen prices from 50:confused: to 400:shocked3d:. i saw 1 on ebay for a taco. i saw mine is ripped.
i looked in sparks here i couldn't find it. i don't want aftermarket. nor do i want to pay list.:eek:
i tried to copy & paste a picture, but i'm not the sharpest tool. lol
thanks,
gorilla

Tundra1Dan
04-13-2013, 08:23 AM
Check here PROPELLER SHAFT & UNIVERSAL JOINT. Fits: 2005 TOYOTA Tundra SR5 4700CC 32-VALVE DOHC EFI, AUTOMATIC 5-SPEED COLUMN SHIFT | Village Toyota Parts (http://www.villagetoyotaparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=347643&ukey_make=1021&ukey_model=14432&modelYear=2005&ukey_category=19382&ukey_driveLine=6188&ukey_trimLevel=14110)
not sure if you have a 2 or 4 wheel drive because I found out recently that they are different bearings.

GORILLA
04-13-2013, 10:43 AM
awesome. thanks. part 37230. good price for sure. waiting on other's to respond.
even giving my dealership a shot at it. but they usually are allot more.
thanks,
Gorilla

Tundra1Dan
04-13-2013, 12:26 PM
I am in Canada, I called to a dealer in Michigan , told him the price and he matched it. Yours may do the same.

GORILLA
04-14-2013, 05:50 AM
hi i also heard it has to be pressed on & off. G

Tundra1Dan
04-14-2013, 07:12 AM
hi i also heard it has to be pressed on & off. G
No it is a snug fit but you can take off with a hammer and a punch or block of wood and be careful not to loose the spacer/washer that is between the yoke and bearing,then you slid the new one on and torque to 134 ft/lbs I believe then loosen and retorque to 60 ft/lbs . you will have to check the torques but it is close. Just remember that spacer.

Tundra1Dan
04-14-2013, 07:19 AM
You can go here and download the procedure 2005 Toyota Tundra Center Support Bearing | Auto Repair Manual Free Download and Reviews (http://www.autozmagz.com/search/2005+toyota+tundra+center+support+bearing)

GORILLA
04-14-2013, 09:49 AM
thanks, for all your help. great info.
my dealership had 1 & it cost me 146.02 go figure. so i got it.
awesome tundra1dan, you saved me alot of greef.
Gorilla

GORILLA
04-14-2013, 11:12 AM
a. Place matchmarks on the differential and propeller shaft flanges. Fig. 4: Placing Matchmarks On Differential And Propeller Shaft Flanges b. Except Double-Cab model: Remove the 4 bolts, washers and nuts. c. Double-Cab model: Remove the 4 nuts and washers. d. Remove the 2 mounting bolts and center support bearing from the frame crossmember. e. Pull out the propeller shaft yoke from the transmission. f. Insert SST in the transmission to prevent oil leakage. SST 09325-40010 Fig. 5: Inserting SST In Transmission 1. SEPARATE PROPELLER SHAFT AND INTERMEDIATE SHAFT a. Place matchmarks on the yoke and propeller shaft

Highwaylizard
04-15-2013, 04:28 AM
Wow. I did not realize there was this much involved in replacing the carrier bearing. I was thinking this was something I could do in my driveway. Gong to have to mull this one over.

GORILLA
04-25-2013, 05:25 PM
hi had my son try to drop bolts and separate shaft no can do. shaft has to come off. fyi.
gorilla going to try to hav it done by Sunday.
gorilla

Tundra1Dan
04-26-2013, 06:36 AM
hi had my son try to drop bolts and separate shaft no can do. shaft has to come off. fyi.
gorilla going to try to hav it done by Sunday.
gorilla

Ya it kinda sticks on the rear, I just took a flat screwdriver and tapped it into a gap between the drive shaft plate and the pinion plate and to popped right off and then I could slide it forward over the bolts to remove. Hope that makes sense.

skilife
04-27-2013, 05:48 AM
http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/1gen-tundra/219488-05-06-tundra-factory-service-manual/

User spaztic pdf'd the factory service manual... I've referenced it for tons of stuff. It will help, download it!

GORILLA
05-06-2013, 05:59 AM
wow oem u joint 68 each come on. any other help with oem pricing. thank you in advance
gorilla

GORILLA
05-06-2013, 06:07 AM
discount toyota 54.03 X 3 = come on maybe its just how i feel gorilla

GORILLA
05-06-2013, 06:26 AM
there is another thread here. for 2 peice drive shafts(double cab's) you better play attention. before you attempt this. bench mark, make sure you have a u joint in hand. you might need a press. and so on. if they dont line up like before your going to have serious issues. from what i was told. hopefully mine will be done by tonight. i'll let you all know what is truely involved im staying and watching like it or not. :) gorilla

GORILLA
05-06-2013, 02:53 PM
hi all, just went to my dealership ordered the u joint spider joint whatever. they said be-careful. it better line up. other wise it will vibrate to no end. $68 Wednesday the part will be in. i'll be back with the process & results. gorilla

GORILLA
05-11-2013, 03:58 PM
hi all it's done from when my ase master mech drive truck in shop. lifted it. dropped the whole drive shaft. knocked off old carrier bearing. installed new 1. no press needed to take it off nor put it on. no U joints needed. you did have to knock 1 side of u joint off. also maybe 2 table spoons of tranny fluid came out. Not a Big job. dropped truck total time 35 to 45 minutes max. i asked toyota how much ,& that i had u joint & carrier bearing. a estimated price of 425 plus for labor only. gorilla going to return u joint. minus 20% restocking fee. what a joke. if i was asked how hard on a scale from 1 to 5 5 being the hardest. it's a 1

5 Speed
05-11-2013, 04:18 PM
I pulled a string from the transmission to the rear end to help with the alignment of the carrier bearing to insure a straight driveline. No Vibrations ;-)

Remmy700P
05-11-2013, 06:59 PM
Thanks for the update Russ. Glad you got that squared away. You KNOW your local dealer was going to bend you over and give you the "ole high hard one" for that little job! I know MINE would.

tundrunk
05-11-2013, 08:11 PM
Wow. I did not realize there was this much involved in replacing the carrier bearing. I was thinking this was something I could do in my driveway. Gong to have to mull this one over.
I did it in my buddy's driveway, we were very late in the drinking night and still got it done in a matter of two hours. It isn't nearly as hard as it reads, and I didn't stick any SST into my transmission, I relied on the seal to keep fluid in...
which is what it does to being with. :cool:

The important part is to make align marks on the connections for proper reinstall, both on the rear end and the transmission end. The other important part is how you apply torque to the nut holding the bushing, if I recall you torque it down then loosen it to kind of "seat" it in. If you have the haynes manual it has the detail. If I did it sober I'd be more helpful.

This part was what took us a while. You do need a bench vise to press the yolk things out carefully, we used a few sockets to do this. One was needed to press the round part from one side, a large one was needed to allow the round part to press though. After that, the nut holding this end on has a punch mark to help realign it right, I recall paying attention to that when I backed it off after install. It was hard to get the old one off, that spent most of our time, once that was off it was quick.
http://www.tundrasolutions.com/gallery/files/1/5/5/0/4/9/101_0810.jpg

claymore504
12-19-2013, 01:06 PM
I know this thread is a few months old, but just wanted to let everyone know that I found the center support bearing is made by Spicer. Ordered this one and sure enough it says Toyota on it.

Spicer 211750-1X Dana Toyota Tundra Center Bearing (http://www.drivetrainamerica.com/p-4992-spicer-211750-1x-dana-toyota-tundra-center-bearing.aspx)

Highwaylizard
12-20-2013, 06:45 AM
I did it in my buddy's driveway, we were very late in the drinking night and still got it done in a matter of two hours. It isn't nearly as hard as it reads, and I didn't stick any SST into my transmission, I relied on the seal to keep fluid in...
which is what it does to being with. :cool:

The important part is to make align marks on the connections for proper reinstall, both on the rear end and the transmission end. The other important part is how you apply torque to the nut holding the bushing, if I recall you torque it down then loosen it to kind of "seat" it in. If you have the haynes manual it has the detail. If I did it sober I'd be more helpful.

This part was what took us a while. You do need a bench vise to press the yolk things out carefully, we used a few sockets to do this. One was needed to press the round part from one side, a large one was needed to allow the round part to press though. After that, the nut holding this end on has a punch mark to help realign it right, I recall paying attention to that when I backed it off after install. It was hard to get the old one off, that spent most of our time, once that was off it was quick.
http://www.tundrasolutions.com/gallery/files/1/5/5/0/4/9/101_0810.jpg

I wish you lived closer - I would pay you in beer to change out my center support bearing that is still sitting brand new in the box on my tool bench. I think I am just going to get the shop down the road to do it. Holding out hope for a new frame which would facilitate the replacement/upgrade of a lot of stuff on my truck.

cheapskate
12-20-2013, 08:49 AM
If you end up dropping the whole shaft to take this piece off Lizard get some help. We used to build the 4wd Matrix (discontinued now) and TIS was very specific that it must not exceed a 15 degree angle at any time. Don't quote me on the amount of angle but the point is you could do serious damage if you put too much stress on that joint. Maybe this is common knowledge to some but I have yet to see anyone mention this.