This different from the STICKY thread at the top of this forum, which uses a Union from either Nissan or Toyota (it's a straight-thru hollow tube with threads on one end, easier to attach a hose to).

Needed: 20ft of 1/4" thick-wall rubber fuel line or equivalent (this is thick enough to provide good grip around the stock breather without slipping off or tearing, and durable enough to resist abrasion, heat, and cold. Probably overkill, but if you use smaller hose and it rips/cracks/slips off the breather, I told you so), hairspray (something slippery when wet but quickly dries non-permanent yet very sticky), a small hose clamp, zip ties, screwdriver for the hose clamp, small diagonal cutters or needlenose pliers.

1. Use a 14mm wrench or deep socket and try to remove the stock breather. It's to the left of the pumpkin, on a bump on top of the axle, with a small loose silver can on top. If it actually comes out, go to the other thread, get the Toyota or Nissan part number, and do it that way. If yours is stripped and won't come out, you can still do it the way in this thread.

2. If your stock breather didn't come out, you're here. Use the diagonal cutters or needlenose pliers to remove the little silver can over the stock breather. Just pry out the bottom and pry it off, you won't break what's underneath.

3. CLEAN THE VALVE before you do anything else to it, and clean carefully, it's a straight shot from that hole to your rear diff.

4. Spray a little hairspray on your finger. Rub the spray around the outside (NOT the top) of the stock valve. Put a hose clamp on your new extension hose, don't tighten, work the end of the hose over the stock breather valve. Now tighten the hose clamp over the flange at the end of the valve, where the hose is bulging. Tug on it to make sure it's really on there.

5. Route the hose in an "S" to the right, under the left hardline from the brake line node, and back again on top of the brake line node. Zip tie the hose to the top of the node where it points toward the frame, just behind the nut at the end of the flexible brake line. If you have a steel braided line, you can attach the breather hose to the line with zip ties, but if you've just got the OEM rubber line I wouldn't recommend it. Put the breather line through the big hole in the crossmember just in front and to the right of the brake hanger, and route left or right either to the top of a stake pocket or to the frame rail and forward to the engine compartment (watch out for the exhaust pipe and cat, and don't route on the outside of the frame especially near the front tires).

6. How and where you secure the end is up to you, however remember a few things. You want a few coils in the end of the line to trap inevitable moisture, and preferably a small filter or check valve. You want to keep this line clear from abrasion and heat. You don't want the line to have to stretch during use, that's why it follows the rear brake line up to the frame, otherwise you'd need extra length for when you put the right tire on an obstacle and drop the left tire. Finally, you want the line to go high enough that if water entered the line, you wouldn't care because at that point you'd be concerned with the engine. Consider that some water crossings may be almost as deep as your tires, and the tires come up nearly to the top of the frame rails, so bringing the breather hose only to the top of the frame rails isn't enough, it should be high enough that it's the last thing you'll worry about.

7. Now do the front diff breather and the xmission breather :D.

-Sean