I own a 2001 4wd Access Cab Tundra with about 83k miles which I bought new. To be honest it is the first vehicle with an automatic transmission that I have owned. I had the full service done at the dealer at the 30k and 60k marks (plugs, cooling system flush, differential oil changed (front at 60k), etc.. When I took it in at 30k I asked about the transmission and they said there was no scheduled maintenance due but they had an automatic transmission service for about $60 which included new fluid and cleaning the filter. I had that done at 30k and again at 60k thinking I was in good shape. I received a coupon flyer from the dealer a couple days ago and one of the coupons was for a "transmission flush" for $199. I called and they said that this included removing all the old fluid, flushing the tranny and replacing with all new. I really didn't realize that there were two levels of service available. Just as a side note I did realize the timing belt is up for being changed at 90k.

I have pretty much babied the truck since I've had it, I never really "get on it". My wife thinks I drive like a "putz". I've used it for towing about 300 miles if even that. I commute 60 miles a day to work on the open highway which explains the mileage. I intended on keeping the truck to at least the 140k to 150k mark but now I am wondering if i could run into tranny problems before then. If I keep the truck I'll obviously have the flush done at 90k (if not before). The 2001 models do have the factory installed tranny oil cooler.

Does anyone have a gut instinct for how the tranny should hold up given the history? Obviously there are no guaruntees but I'm trying to figure if I screwed up "big time" or if chances are it is ok. I have had zero indications of any problems. I am a little upset with the dealer for not explaining things more thoroughly as they know I am conscientious about maintaining my vehicles. I know I had the "basic" tranny service done at 30k and 60k but did it really do any good? Should I hang on to it or trade it in? Thanks for any advice!!!

I am a new Tundra owner so I probably shouldn't be replying to longevity questions. However I have been a motor head all my life, even as a kid.

Let me get this straight. Your worried that you haven't had a tranny fluid change in 83k miles but you don't tow anything and a lot of those miles are hwy?

If the above is true, in my opinion your fine.

1. It's not a dodge (No offense)
2. You haven't been pulling houses with it.

I would get it done soon though. A suggestion is to ask the mechanic what the fluid looks like when he changes it. A lot of places will take samples and examine the old fluid to look for metal shavings etc.

Your tranny is probably just fine... especially since its a Toyota.

but that said... now would be an excellent time to have it fully flushed (15-16qts of fresh fluid) and switched over to synthetic. Its also something you should be able to do yourself.

I thought that it wasnt good to have the transmission completely flushed when it has that many miles on it? I have never done mine, and im unsure when or if its been done in the past on the truck. Maybe i should do it then? I have almost 81k miles.

i have almost 80,000 miles on my 03, i was told to clean with auto-rx for 1000 miles or so prior to my complete flush to help clean all the grime and built up varnish. cheers, todd

I know I had the "basic" tranny service done at 30k and 60k but did it really do any good? Should I hang on to it or trade it in? Thanks for any advice!!!

The dealer may have just done a drain and refill of the transmission. I think the owners manual indicates just checking the fluid at 30k and changing at 60k. If you had service at those intervals now may be a good time to do a complete flush.

i have almost 80,000 miles on my 03, i was told to clean with auto-rx for 1000 miles or so prior to my complete flush to help clean all the grime and built up varnish. cheers, todd

Yep, an Auto-Rx treatment is recommended if the fluid has not been changed before now.

I own a 2001 4wd Access Cab Tundra with about 83k miles which I bought new. To be honest it is the first vehicle with an automatic transmission that I have owned. I had the full service done at the dealer at the 30k and 60k marks (plugs, cooling system flush, differential oil changed (front at 60k), etc.. When I took it in at 30k I asked about the transmission and they said there was no scheduled maintenance due but they had an automatic transmission service for about $60 which included new fluid and cleaning the filter. I had that done at 30k and again at 60k thinking I was in good shape. I received a coupon flyer from the dealer a couple days ago and one of the coupons was for a "transmission flush" for $199. I called and they said that this included removing all the old fluid, flushing the tranny and replacing with all new. I really didn't realize that there were two levels of service available. Just as a side note I did realize the timing belt is up for being changed at 90k.

I have pretty much babied the truck since I've had it, I never really "get on it". My wife thinks I drive like a "putz". I've used it for towing about 300 miles if even that. I commute 60 miles a day to work on the open highway which explains the mileage. I intended on keeping the truck to at least the 140k to 150k mark but now I am wondering if i could run into tranny problems before then. If I keep the truck I'll obviously have the flush done at 90k (if not before). The 2001 models do have the factory installed tranny oil cooler.

Does anyone have a gut instinct for how the tranny should hold up given the history? Obviously there are no guaruntees but I'm trying to figure if I screwed up "big time" or if chances are it is ok. I have had zero indications of any problems. I am a little upset with the dealer for not explaining things more thoroughly as they know I am conscientious about maintaining my vehicles. I know I had the "basic" tranny service done at 30k and 60k but did it really do any good? Should I hang on to it or trade it in? Thanks for any advice!!!

Hey Corbin,

You have maintained your tranny exactly how Toyota has recommended. No where in the manual does it say to "flush" your tranny. This is a made up service to put more of your money in the dealer's pocket..... There's really no good reason to do a flush unless you're having trbl or are going w/a good synthetic ATF like Royal Purple or Mobile 1....... Your tranny will shift much smoother w/the syn fluids......

If you're worried about it then do the "pan drain" every 20-25K miles. Driving that many freeway miles doesn't place much strain on the tranny like stop and go traffic does. IMO you'll be Ok doing what you've been doing.....

I get coupons all the time for the tranny flush for $119.00 and pan drain for $40.00. I'd check around for a good independent Toyota shop for a better price and service...... JB :cool:

I have a '02 Access Cab with 55,000 miles (mostly easy freeway miles). My tranny bit the dust last week - no warning at all, it never gave me a clue that it was hurtin'. I was on a freeway on-ramp under moderate acceleration then it just slipped and then grabbed HARD! Did it one more time and I stopped right there and called for a tow.

Transmission is being replaced under warranty :tu: - I am supposed to pick it up this afternoon.

I will report back as to what failed.

Steve

My opinion is that u can do a drain & refill on it at the same time u do your oil change. That would continually renew the oil & additive packages.
These trannys hold up pretty good. They do fail but at a way smaller rate than their competitors. Temperature is the main killer of the fluid. So if u drive a lot of highway without romping on it- u will be fine. P.s. u can do a full flush at home. Its better anyway. The tranny flushers get dirty at the shop and most places dont keep em up. they may intermix fluids slightly as well (from one type to another). And some dealers dont use toyota fluid anyway. Check out the garage for the full flush instructions.
As I side note I work for Lexus and the new LS430 Flagship car doesnt require tranny service until 100k. They even took away the dipstick.They are very similar trannys. They make these things pretty damn good. Ive seen the old LS400's come in with 200k on em w no tranny problems. just my 2 cents

I am concered about the Transmission fluid change I have 86K miles and I have not flushed the transmission. I have replaced the fluid at 55K and I would like to flush it and replace it with synthetic(royal purple). Should I do this and can I do this myself? Thanks in advance.

My opinion is that u can do a drain & refill on it at the same time u do your oil change. That would continually renew the oil & additive packages.
These trannys hold up pretty good. They do fail but at a way smaller rate than their competitors. Temperature is the main killer of the fluid. So if u drive a lot of highway without romping on it- u will be fine. P.s. u can do a full flush at home. Its better anyway. The tranny flushers get dirty at the shop and most places dont keep em up. they may intermix fluids slightly as well (from one type to another). And some dealers dont use toyota fluid anyway. Check out the garage for the full flush instructions.
As I side note I work for Lexus and the new LS430 Flagship car doesnt require tranny service until 100k. They even took away the dipstick.They are very similar trannys. They make these things pretty damn good. Ive seen the old LS400's come in with 200k on em w no tranny problems. just my 2 cents
A drain and refill does not replace the few quarts that are in the torque convertor. Do the flush and read the threads on Tundra transmissions grenading. Unlike a bombed 500hp Dodge Cummins diesel, the Toyota tranny is lightly stressed. It is distressing to me that Tundra trannies with relatively low miles are grenading, especially since my wife tows a horse trailer with our Tundra. maybe we should start towing the horse trailer with my DODGE!

maybe we should start towing the horse trailer with my DODGE!

Maybe your wife doesn't want to choke her horses to death with the diesel smoke.

It is distressing to me that Tundra trannies with relatively low miles are grenading, especially since my wife tows a horse trailer with our Tundra. maybe we should start towing the horse trailer with my DODGE!
My tranny is one that went to lunch at 55k miles. Low miles and relatively easy use...and also, a very, very low percentage do what mine did.

Think of it this way: Nobody is going to start a thread "My Tranny Didn't Splode". We hear about when things go wrong, not the HUGE number where everything is going right.

There are several users here (RockyMtnRay and KLS for starters) that tow on a fairly regular basis - with no transmission problems that I am aware of.

I guess in short, I wouldn't sweat it too much, just do the proper maintenance and use as directed.

Steve

I am concered about the Transmission fluid change I have 86K miles and I have not flushed the transmission. I have replaced the fluid at 55K and I would like to flush it and replace it with synthetic(royal purple). Should I do this and can I do this myself? Thanks in advance.
I'd suggest an Auto-Rx (http://www.auto-rx.net) cleaning of the transmission (1000 miles), then a complete flush and renewal of the fluid. 16 quarts of ATF will be needed. Your 2001 (2000-2002) takes Dexron-III ATF, so the Royal Purple will do a good job, as will Mobil 1, Amsoil, or Schaeffer. You can do the job yourself.

-Get the transmission warm, not hot.
-Drain the transmission pan and refill.
-Get 3 or 4 feet of 3/8" tubing or hose (plastic is OK). Connect to the lower fitting on the transmission cooler (that mini-radiator). Put the end of the hose into a plastic gallon jug...you'll want three or four.
-Start the engine, watch the ATF pumping into the jug, stop the engine at a half jug (2 quarts).
-Add 2 quarts of ATF down the dipstick tube.
-Repeat until you've used up 'most all the 16 quarts.
-Start the engine and correct the transmission level.
-Drive until the transmission is warm and correct the level again.
-Clean up your mess, recycle the ATF, you're done!

If the ATF comes out the disconnected hose on the cooler and sprays over the whole area instead of out your tubing into the jug, stop and change your connections. I'm working from my (often faulty) memory.


Tundra Bill,
I think a transmission pan drain and refill every 2nd oil change is a good plan. The transmission holds about 16 quarts and you get about 4 quarts out of the pan.


Ken

Every 2nd oil change?
Ouch... T-IV is $7/qt

Did a full flush on my 02 today with Redline D4 ATF. Actually it's the upper hose on the cooler. Everything went well, fluid level was perfect just at 15qts. Installed a Magnefine inline filter while I was at it.

Jacob

I have done the drain and refill with Mobil 1 synthetic tranny fluid about every other oil change. I did not start this untill I had about 30,000 on the truck. I have done this about 4 times so I am guessing I might be between 75-80% synthetic. I know opinions are like ***holes but If I continue to do this should I be in good shape or do I need to still do a flush? Another thing I have noticed is that my truck shift harder that I think it should. When I first do a drain and refill it seems to shift smoother for a couple of weeks then it seems to go back to harder shifts...what does this tell anyone?? Thanks for any replies..Mitch

I have done the drain and refill with Mobil 1 synthetic tranny fluid about every other oil change. I did not start this untill I had about 30,000 on the truck. I have done this about 4 times so I am guessing I might be between 75-80% synthetic. I know opinions are like ***holes but If I continue to do this should I be in good shape or do I need to still do a flush? Another thing I have noticed is that my truck shift harder that I think it should. When I first do a drain and refill it seems to shift smoother for a couple of weeks then it seems to go back to harder shifts...what does this tell anyone?? Thanks for any replies..Mitch

Running "diluted" synthetic is not the same as running 100% synthetic. Its like mixing sour milk with good milk... you mix 50% crap with 50% good stuff and you end up with 100% diluted crap. IMO its so simple to do the flush why not just do it correctly to begin with and be done with it.

just my 2¢'s worth...

Running "diluted" synthetic is not the same as running 100% synthetic. Its like mixing sour milk with good milk... you mix 50% crap with 50% good stuff and you end up with 100% diluted crap. IMO its so simple to do the flush why not just do it correctly to begin with and be done with it.

just my 2¢'s worth...

I suppose its not unrealistic that some of us don't want to, or are unable to, spend over 100 dollars on fluids for a single maintenance item.

I had plans of doing a complete transmission drain and refill (full 14.9 qts) this past weekend. I drained the first 4 qts out of the reservoir and then refilled (pouring down the dipstick tube, even with a funnel, was a complete PITA...spilled more than I would have liked with the first quart. If you are about to try this for the first time, pour s l o w l y). When I moved to the transmission cooler is when I ran into problems. I finally got the hose clamp off, but I couldn't get the hose disconnected from the cooler. I tried to pull down on the hose itself with as good a grip as I could get and the hose felt like it stretched but the end didn't budge. I then tried to peel the top of the hose away from the cooler "nipple" and to push down but there's so little surface area to push against.

This is my first vehicle that I've attempted this kind of PM with, and am always paranoid about finding myself up a certain creek. So do you guys have any tips or tricks in how to pull the hose off? Is it just brute force? I thought about wrapping a rag around the first inch of the hose and getting on it with a pair of pliers but again, I'm afraid of doing permanent damage to either the hose or the cooler.

Since I'm at it, I also have one final question. I checked the level with the dipstick after draining and adding the first 4 qts. The level seemed way high. I'm assuming that I may not have gotten the full 4 qts out of the pan and since I added 4, minus the spillage, that may be the cause. At the same time though, since the dip stick has several turns to negotiate and I had just poured all that fluid down the tube, I didn't know if the stick was picking up additional fluid from the tube walls as I pulled it out. Have any of you had problems getting a good "read"? Thanks in advance for any and all replies.

I had plans of doing a complete transmission drain and refill (full 14.9 qts) this past weekend. I drained the first 4 qts out of the reservoir and then refilled (pouring down the dipstick tube, even with a funnel, was a complete PITA...spilled more than I would have liked with the first quart. If you are about to try this for the first time, pour s l o w l y). When I moved to the transmission cooler is when I ran into problems. I finally got the hose clamp off, but I couldn't get the hose disconnected from the cooler. I tried to pull down on the hose itself with as good a grip as I could get and the hose felt like it stretched but the end didn't budge. I then tried to peel the top of the hose away from the cooler "nipple" and to push down but there's so little surface area to push against.

This is my first vehicle that I've attempted this kind of PM with, and am always paranoid about finding myself up a certain creek. So do you guys have any tips or tricks in how to pull the hose off? Is it just brute force? I thought about wrapping a rag around the first inch of the hose and getting on it with a pair of pliers but again, I'm afraid of doing permanent damage to either the hose or the cooler.

Since I'm at it, I also have one final question. I checked the level with the dipstick after draining and adding the first 4 qts. The level seemed way high. I'm assuming that I may not have gotten the full 4 qts out of the pan and since I added 4, minus the spillage, that may be the cause. At the same time though, since the dip stick has several turns to negotiate and I had just poured all that fluid down the tube, I didn't know if the stick was picking up additional fluid from the tube walls as I pulled it out. Have any of you had problems getting a good "read"? Thanks in advance for any and all replies.

Fluid Level: Did you crank your engine and shift through all of the gears and back into park and then check the fluid with the engine running? If not, do this and check it again, if you did this then it may be as you said and it could be the dip stick tube was still dripping with fluid or you did not get 4qts out of the pan. I measured my old fluid the first time I did this and had 3.9 quarts.

Removing hose: I would try and gently take a pair of pliers(I would use Robo- Grip if you have some) and squeeze the hose without clamping real hard and then twisting the tubing should break it loose. I have seen rubber hoses like that and it will seem to atttach itself to the metal nipple, but it should break loose and not tear the hose unless it is dry rotted.

Good Luck, Mitch

Thanks for the reply Mitch. No I did not shift through the gears. Since I was planning on continuing with the flush, I didn't want to run the engine circulating the brand new fluid with the old fluid until I had the hose off and was draining the old stuff. I realize that there will still be some mixing, but I was still trying to minimize it. I did manage to get the hose off last night though. I used a small flat head screw driver and gently wedged it between the nipple and the hose. After going around the perimeter of the hose, that seemed to loosen it enough to pull it out. I'll make sure to run through the gears before checking the level again. As for measuring what came out of the pan, I just let it collect in the same container as the rear diff fluid that I had changed just prior to attacking the tranny. So no way to measure it now. Plus I was doing this on a very windy day which blew a decent amount of the fluid all over my driveway. It only had 6-8 inches to fall from the pan to my catch pan but it was enough to make a mess. Luckily tranny fluid cleans up much better than used engine oil. I still don't recommend doing this on a windy day though! I guess making mistakes is how we learn!!

:cool: I changed to synthetic at 20k. Complete flush when I did the initial major service at 95K and again at recent major service (186K). Truck runs great. Expecting to hit 200K by fall.

I was wondering that if you hooked up a low pressure air line to the trany cooler line and put the other line in a bucket that this would flush out the old fluid without having to waste so much new fluid on a flush. When I tested submarine piping systems we used to do this to remove the fluid from the pipes.

Problem with that is the cooler return line goes directly to the pan.
Your sub systems were probably sealed closed-circuit systems where this would work.

OTOH, even if you could fully evacuate the system using compressed air, you'd then be faced with hours of restarting and refilling to reload the now empty TC.

You aren't really wasting any new fluid... the trans will ultimately keep about 4 gallons of new fluid in it. You're draining the pan, refilling it, then going to the cooler and, a half-gallon at a time, capturing the old fluid on it's way back to the pan, then replacing it with new fluid down the dipstick tube. Done exactly perfectly right, you might end up with a few ounces of new fluid purged at the end of the process.

The reason for clearing the pan first is you don't want to run the pan completely dry, and you don't want to start the flush off my mixing new fluid with the old... there will be enough of that going on inside the TC running the process properly. The idea is that the new fluid is pumped into the system as the old is pumped out. Ya... unless the chambers in the TC effectively isolate the fluid in quantities of less than 2 quarts, there's going to be some mixing.

In theory, you COULD simply idle the engine and pump or pour fluid back into the pan at exactly the same rate that it is coming out of the cooler, but if you're too slow, you're going to end up running dry, too fast and you'll overfill.

It's not that hard. Just drain into a 5-gallon bucket and put marks in the bucket at 1/2-gallon increments. When the fluid reaches a line, shut it down and add 2 quarts.

Hey Ken,

I know this thread is a bit old, but I blame it on the search function :cool:

I was ready to do a tranny flush last year, but I thought that is more to it than you're saying (drain and refill, then tap in the tranny radiator line and refill from top).
A friend of mine was explaining me how to do it, and I think he made it sound a lot more that it is. Maybe, 'cause he was doing it on his Diesel Ford.

Anywho, I'm getting ready for some camping season again (when it will eventualy get hot here in Oregon :mad: , and I know my fluid it's due. It looks nice and red, but I towed a lot last year, and I also took it on the sand once and I might of overheat it a bit. Might it's an elusive word for it.....

Also, can I just let the engine run, and just keep adding new fluid from the top, until I see a change in the color of the fluid that's coming out? Is there anything that can go wrong if I add to much for a few mins? Like the catalit. converter getting soaked in motoroil, when u add to much to the engine?

Also, who's taking the used tranny fluid? Here in Oregon we just put the engine oil in milk jugs on the curb and they take it with the recycle trucks. Wonder if they'll take tranyy juice :rolleyes:

Thanx for the answers.

Mike

I was ready to do a tranny flush last year, but I thought that is more to it than you're saying (drain and refill, then tap in the tranny radiator line and refill from top).
A friend of mine was explaining me how to do it, and I think he made it sound a lot more that it is. Maybe, 'cause he was doing it on his Diesel Ford.

Its as easy as it sounds... will probably take an hour to do it.


Also, can I just let the engine run, and just keep adding new fluid from the top, until I see a change in the color of the fluid that's coming out? Is there anything that can go wrong if I add to much for a few mins? Like the catalit. converter getting soaked in motoroil, when u add to much to the engine?

I wouldn't recommend it as its doubtful you will be able to pour in fresh fluid as fast as its being pumped out of the tranny cooler line. You will be pumping out 2-3 qts (depending on how big your receiver container is) in ~20-30sec and the last thing you want to do is run the torque converter dry. Its best to follow the procedure and drain, refill, drain, refill... until its completely flushed.

Also, who's taking the used tranny fluid? Here in Oregon we just put the engine oil in milk jugs on the curb and they take it with the recycle trucks. Wonder if they'll take tranyy juice :rolleyes:

If they take used engine oil, they will most likely take used tranny fluid as well. They are both hydrocarbon oil-based fluids.

Hey, thanx a bunch THarms!

I was worried that it just looks to simple to be true. They charge u an arm and leg at the dealer for a flush :( .

I'll have to get everything ready now, since I just heard from the lady that we're good to go camping in 2.5 weeks. I need 16 Quarts of oil (like $5/Qt :eek: ), no filter, right? and a bunch of milk jugs :)

Also, I"ll leave the gears in P while doing this, right? Should I add an inline filter for the tranny, is it worth it :confused: I tow a bit, and probably I'll benefit from it. ALso, there's a temp. gauge that can be mounted at the output of the tranny cooler if I remember right. I'll have to do my homework quick, and have everything ready to go by the time I'll start the work on the truck...:D So many options, so little time or money....

Thanks again for reasuring me that's not gonna be like rocket building....

Mike

Hey, thanx a bunch THarms!

I was worried that it just looks to simple to be true. They charge u an arm and leg at the dealer for a flush :( .

I'll have to get everything ready now, since I just heard from the lady that we're good to go camping in 2.5 weeks. I need 16 Quarts of oil (like $5/Qt :eek: ), no filter, right? and a bunch of milk jugs :)

Also, I"ll leave the gears in P while doing this, right? Should I add an inline filter for the tranny, is it worth it :confused: I tow a bit, and probably I'll benefit from it. ALso, there's a temp. gauge that can be mounted at the output of the tranny cooler if I remember right. I'll have to do my homework quick, and have everything ready to go by the time I'll start the work on the truck...:D So many options, so little time or money....

Thanks again for reasuring me that's not gonna be like rocket building....

Mike

I just flushed mine yesterday I didn't stop in time and used 17Qts of mobil1 @ $6.19 Qt. I also installed a magnefine inline filter. There is some threads that are very informative on temp gauges I installed mine inline and got my parts from http://www.importperformancetrans.com/ .

Mirciulie -

When you do the flush, refill with a 100% synthetic ATF such as Mobil1 or Amsoil.

Adding an inline microfine filter is OK. I have not added one on mine, but am considering it. I think the real benefit comes if you don't plan on flushing the fluid very often (ie like every 15K miles) which is definitely not needed in most cases if you run the synthetic fluid. Changing fluid helps to periodically flush these fine particles from the system. If you don't flush, the filter will help remove them in the interim.

Based on what I've read on this forum, a tranny temp gauge is overkill unless you do some very serious towing through the mountains or in very high ambient temperatures in very hilly terrain.

When you do the flush, refill with a 100% synthetic ATF such as Mobil1 or Amsoil.
Be careful on '03 and later. '03 uses T-IV, and either '04 or '05 went to the new "WS"... you'll know by looking at the dipstick (if you don't have a dipstick, you have WS).

Mobil-1 is "totally incompatible" (a quote from a Mobil tech) with T-IV.
Amsoil claims that their universal Dex-III is compatible, but there is no way to verify it other than the fact that some owners have used it and not experience problems. Note that most of the '03 owners have switched to it at the same time they have had major trans upgrades installed... a change in clutch material could allow (or even require) a fluid change.
Either way, Toyota specifically says to avoid "so-called universal fluids"

Next year is going to be interesting. GM has moved to a Dex-VI spec, and it really is crap fluid... just more GM cost cutting. Problem is, after 4th quarter '06, they will no longer license Dex-III, so as of somewhere around Jan '07, all you will be able to get will be Dex-VI.
It is backwards compatible with the Dex-III spec, BUT it may not be acceptable in other applications where Dex-III has been acceptable but where other fluids were specified.
For example, my '06 Duramax has the Allison 1000 6spd. Factory fill from GM was Dex-VI. Some discussions with unnamed techs at Allison indicated that they do not have a high opinion of Dex-VI and at this point, they "want" only fully synthetic Allison spec fluids used... Castrol TranSynd, Citgo QuatraSynd, and though it's not on the formally approved list, Amsoil TorqueDrive (which is what I went to... $150 for 20 quarts).

All of these fluids are also Dex-III compliant.

Right now, the only source for Dex-VI is the GM dealer. Producers are going to have to get on the bandwagon very quickly or they will be left without a licensable fluid for ANY GM product next year.


Take care of your baby, but be careful when experimenting with alternate fluids. Supposedly, T-IV is a synthetic, as is WS. Both are marketed as "lifetime" fluids under normal service. It may cost more to buy it from the dealer (and your best deals will be from supporting dealers here on TS such as Carson Toyota), but an extra $50 or even $100 at flush time is a LOT cheaper than having to have your clutch packs replaced because the new fluid's friction modifiers caused them to slip.

Thanx guys!

I was aware of the fact that the '03 uses T IV fluid. I bought 4 Qt last year do to a refill, but didn't have time(wrecked the truck a bit :eek: ) . Now I'm gonna do the full flush...

I might stop by Baxter auto for the sensor. Friend of mine bought one there. All the store parts I went to didin't have any, so besite internet that's my only option right now.

Also, do I need to replace the gasket, when I put the pan back up?

I'm planning to put a temp gauge, since I'm towing a bit (I think my pop up is 2500# max), but I always have a bunch of stuff in the bed. And I go over mtn. (like from 200 ft to 5000 or 6000). It's not like Colorado (never been there though) were u go high on the passes, but u start at 3-4000 feet. Also, I'm planning to take my baby on the sand dunes again. I'm thinkin veeeeeeery moderate offroading this time, but you know how it ends up after like 1/2 hour :D And I want to make sure I'm not gonna over heat it, like I did last time. A 50-70$ investement in the temp sensor is very cheap assurance....

I'll try to get all the parts I need this week, and by next one I HAVE TO GET IT DONE since I'm going camping after that.

Wish me luck! I know I'm gonna have fun ;)

Cheers.

Mike

The tranny temp guage will be overkill if you are only towing a 2500# camper. Your Sequoia will play with a trailer that light... even in the mountains.