My '92 Previa has been little problematic - it runs well but won't start once in a while in this summer. I could hear 'click' when it does not start. So I thought the battery is the problem. In fact, the battery is old and the liquid is over it.

Yesterday, I drove to Walmart to replace the battery, but it was too late. On the way back, after stopping at Panera, it would not start. I called my friend for jump start and it worked.

This morning I tried another jump start to go to fix the battery, but it won't start at all. I only hear 'click' when I turn the key.

Now I need a verdict.
Is it the battery?
Or something else?

The minivan is blocking the driveway... :(

My '92 Previa has been little problematic - it runs well but won't start once in a while in this summer. I could hear 'click' when it does not start. So I thought the battery is the problem. In fact, the battery is old and the liquid is over it.

Yesterday, I drove to Walmart to replace the battery, but it was too late. On the way back, after stopping at Panera, it would not start. I called my friend for jump start and it worked.

This morning I tried another jump start to go to fix the battery, but it won't start at all. I only hear 'click' when I turn the key.

Now I need a verdict.
Is it the battery?
Or something else?

The minivan is blocking the driveway... :(
It's usually the starter when it just goes "CLICK".
Previas are known for this, as most other toyotas.
I would recommend replacement with a factory remanufactured unit.
Save yourself the headache of replacing a aftermarket unit serveral times.

Thanks for your quick response :)
I now have a new battery and the engine starts.
But once in a while, it 'clicks' and won't start.
I'd better change the starter.

Where can I find the factory rebuild one?
If I have one, should I be able to change it?
I have basic knowledge of mechanics, but I am not a mechanic.

That's the starter, man. It clickes 6 times before it starts. All Toyo's do it. I don't think you need factory reman brand. I have had "dump-in-a-box" brand for 7 years in my 22R. No problems, but it is your money.

There are two bolts holding it. Easy, but the plug end for the activating wire is different on some models and years. They may ask for first or second production. Bring the old one to the store and match it up. They want the core back anyway.

I detached the starter and had it tested at Pepboys.
The starter found to be working OK.
I checked the battery connectors - look good, battery - look good, the fuse blocks next to the battery - looks good, and the all fuses in the dashboard fuse box - look good.
I guess I checked all things I can.

When I turn the key, I hear 'click, but the starter motor would not turn.
So, what is it?

Should I give up and let them tow my car? :confused:

Please help.

I detached the starter and had it tested at Pepboys.
The starter found to be working OK.
I checked the battery connectors - look good, battery - look good, the fuse blocks next to the battery - looks good, and the all fuses in the dashboard fuse box - look good.
I guess I checked all things I can.

When I turn the key, I hear 'click, but the starter motor would not turn.
So, what is it?

Should I give up and let them tow my car? :confused:

Please help.
It's the starter. There is a bad spot on the contacts inside the starter solenoid. ALL TOYOTAS do this eventually.
Replace it with a TOYOTA REMAN starter and be done with this problem.

God, I would swear the starter is no good. :confused:

There is not much left that can go wrong. The only other thing I can think is that there might be another relay between there and the ignition, but that was usually limited to stick shift cars.
And auto shop is just going to go ahead and put in a new starter first, anyway.

Take your DVOM and check the voltage at the starter exciter wire when in the crank position, you need a minimum of 10.2 volts (small wire on starter)
The large wire going to the battery should have 12.2 volts minimum. Check it before and during cranking to make sure it doesnt "GO AWAY", this would indiacate high resistance in the wiring somewhere.
If you have proper voltages, its the starter
If either of these voltages is WAY OFF, then trace that circuit back to its origin.
The starters exciter wire goes from the ignition switch thru the NEUTRAL saftey switch and then thru the coil side of the starter relay, which also is part of the THEFT (ALARM) if equipped. Since it clicks that rules out the THEFT part, the Theft part totally disables the starter and it doesnt even click.
Now your back to Ignition switch/Neutral Switch/wiring/starter relay and starter.
Getting your voltages will help tell you which direction to go.

Thanks guys

I will follow what Mustang67408 suggested. Just few more questions before I start.
1. The starter exciter the small wire and that is +. And it is A in the circuit drawing. Correct?
2. The large wire is under the plastic cover. It is B. Correct?
3. I check the voltages before and while the key is in START. Correct?

If the voltages are about the range you gave, then it is the starter even if it has passed the test?

I just wanted to make sure I understood correctly.

Thanks guys

I will follow what Mustang67408 suggested. Just few more questions before I start.
1. The starter exciter the small wire and that is +. And it is A in the circuit drawing. Correct? YES
2. The large wire is under the plastic cover. It is B. Correct? YES
3. I check the voltages before and while the key is in START. Correct? YES

If the voltages are about the range you gave, then it is the starter even if it has passed the test? YES

I just wanted to make sure I understood correctly.
Good Luck and let us know what you find.

Yes, starter exciter is the small wire and that is +. Some one else needs to be up in the van and have them turn the key while you check this battery voltage.

Well, it WORKED!
Thanks a lot!

First, I checked the voltages to get these.
Before cranking:
- 12.66 on the thick cable,
- and over 11 on the thin connector.
Looked OK.

During cranking:
- 11. 71 on the thick cable,
- and over 11 on the thin one.
Looked NOT OK.

That means, as you suggested, the starter might be OK, but I am loosing the power.
Since it is the thick cable coming from the battery, I re-checked the connectors. They visually were OK and clean. But I re-cleaned and re-tightened them.

And guess what. The starter was begining to kick in and tried to turn, but was not enough.
So I thought the power from the battery may not be enough, so I got it jumped from my another car to get more power. Then it started!

Since it was my wife's van, she is more happy than I do. So, my wife says thanks to you all.:ts: