looking for help SAW/Camburg UCA install

[jgrow]

Well, Uncle Sam provided a nice lil rebate which I may not of agreed about but I'm american, so I supported the economy and bought SAW's and UCA's with it. So i went to install today after work and ran into a few issues. Any input suggestions are greatly appreciated.

I started on the Drviers side. Got the stock UCA off no problem. Got the nut off the lower bolt of my old coilover. Then, i couldn't back out the bolt. It would twist but not back out. I tried a little brut force with a mallet...nada. Anyone else experience this?

Next, I decided to focus on the ball joint at the top of the spindle to give myself a break on the coilover. After 20mins I got the c-clip popped off but couldn't bang the ball joint out. Is there a tool for this??

Due to frustration and two hours of burned sunlight without much progress, i decided to put her back together and take a swing at it this weekend. While I'm no the most mechanical individual, I have done a few minor repairs which makes me believe I can do this. thanks for your help

Justin
2000 Toyota Tundra

[DevinSixtySeven]

Originally Posted by jgrow

Got the nut off the lower bolt of my old coilover. Then, i couldn't back out the bolt. It would twist but not back out. I tried a little brut force with a mallet...nada. Anyone else experience this?

Next, I decided to focus on the ball joint at the top of the spindle to give myself a break on the coilover. After 20mins I got the c-clip popped off but couldn't bang the ball joint out. Is there a tool for this??

Got plenty of suggestions but it's getting late...short version:

The lower bolt doesn't like to move if it's loaded at all by the coilover. Right now the c/o is forcing the arm down via the bolt. Stick a crowbar in there and pry the lower arm down just a hair and the bolt will slip right out. Be very careful the bar doesn't slip.

The ball joints must, absolutely must, be removed with a press tool. I used a 30mm deep socket, you can also use a specific press tool from Total Chaos, it's about 12$ or so and worth the money for the headache it solves.

Where in CO? Maybe some of us could give you a hand.

-Sean

[Imdone]

Sean, you wuss, where's the links to the teamwest coilover install thread or the disertation on removing the LCA, Tie-rod end and swaybar link post???

HAHAHAHA

Easiest way I found to remove the coilover was to start at the bottom pivot connectio nand remove the nut and washer then lean on the uca while having someone else push it out. If you don't have someone else then the long way but easy way was to remove the swaybar end link and the steering rack tie-rod end with a 2 jaw ball joint press and then drop the 4 bolts out from the lower control arm, then that pivot bolt will just slide right out.

Only issue is since you need to get your upper ball joints out you need to reconnect this stuff to keep the steering knuckle from sliding the axle out of the front diff, which probably wouldn't happen but I have seen some other posts where people were sure this was going to happen. Anyway...

You need to remove the the ball joint from the upper control arm first, this can be pickle forked out since you are going to put in UCAs anyway, who cares about saving the ball joints, plus I have a pair of brand new in the bag joints for just your year truck and I would be more than happy to sell them to you.

Then you need to remove the retainer C clip from around the ball joint cup, this will enable it to come out and you need to reuse this.

Now I have been able to use a BFH and hammer it out on more than one occasion, however with that being said, I have also not been able to do it on other occasions. So you have a 50/50 shot as to whether a BFH will work or not. If the latter is the case then you will need a large socket and a 6" C-clamp, put the socket on the bottom side of the ball joint and just tighten that C-clamp down and it will go "POP" and fall all over the place.

Then you need to do the opposite in putting the new lower connector for the UCA on the steering knuckle and assemble in reverse.

Pretty simple, but takes some forearm strength, but hey masturbation will prep you well for this task. hahahaha I just crack myself up sometimes

Anyhoo pretty simple, do it on a weekend and you will have more fun with it than trying to do it after work and racing the sun.

[jgrow]

Thanks for the suggestions. I think I need a biggererFH.

Sean- I'm in CO Springs. I'm the guy that was bugging you with questions about your coilover setup and it's capabilities. Well, as you can see, I've decided to scrap the fabtech's and give the Saw's a whirl. thanks

[DevinSixtySeven]

Originally Posted by Imdone

Sean, you wuss, where's the links to the teamwest coilover install thread or the disertation on removing the LCA, Tie-rod end and swaybar link post???

LMAO!

It was late and I am old and tired . Actually I am just getting lazy.

Easiest way I found to remove the coilover was to start at the bottom pivot connectio nand remove the nut and washer then lean on the uca while having someone else push it out.

The factory jack works pretty good for this, too.

to keep the steering knuckle from sliding the axle out of the front diff

No worries there, the 35mm nut is holding everything in place. It won't even happen on a manual setup unless you've removed the snap ring.

Now I have been able to use a BFH and hammer it out on more than one occasion, however with that being said, I have also not been able to do it on other occasions.

When I removed the Chaos slug I used a massive C-clamp and a BFH. Load it with the clamp, then give it a sound whack, and repeat. It's important to make sure you're pressing straight down, so the hole doesn't oval out.

I used a big ratchet and cheater bar and some straps for rigging so I was able to sorta row the piece out rather than wanking it out .

Like this:

[jgrow]

illiustrations....I dig it! thanks guys. I'll take a crack at it again this weekend.

[Imdone]

Originally Posted by DevinSixtySeven

LMAO!

It was late and I am old and tired . Actually I am just getting lazy.The factory jack works pretty good for this, too.No worries there, the 35mm nut is holding everything in place. It won't even happen on a manual setup unless you've removed the snap ring.When I removed the Chaos slug I used a massive C-clamp and a BFH. Load it with the clamp, then give it a sound whack, and repeat. It's important to make sure you're pressing straight down, so the hole doesn't oval out.

I used a big ratchet and cheater bar and some straps for rigging so I was able to sorta row the piece out rather than wanking it out .

Like this:

HAHAHAHA I knew that would get your attention!!!

As for the axle I was refering to the inner axle pulling out of the diff, I have never had this happen, but there were some guys posting stuff on here that were absolutely sure that it would happen

Good luck this weekend, it's a tough install but worth it and you can work through it.

[DevinSixtySeven]

Originally Posted by Imdone

As for the axle I was refering to the inner axle pulling out of the diff, I have never had this happen, but there were some guys posting stuff on here that were absolutely sure that it would happen

Nonono...that took two crowbars and so much grunting I thought I was gonna drop a deuce in the trousers!

It won't pull out...held in by snap rings. Which you must install open side down .

[NuMb_FiNgErS]

Open side down eh? don't think i did that. And those suckers don't just fall out. I got a pry bar to the face when they finally budged, after nearly crapping my pants.

Well if you guys wanted to get together and do a little install I'd be in for sure. I just can't find the time to get all this done.

Any development on that get together for the trail repair and axle work stuff Sean?

[Mazutoytundra]

Here's the link to the thread on how I did my CO install.

Installed my Donahoes today!!

[Imdone]

Originally Posted by DevinSixtySeven

Nonono...that took two crowbars and so much grunting I thought I was gonna drop a deuce in the trousers!

It won't pull out...held in by snap rings. Which you must install open side down .

Yeah, I don't see how the goofballs thought the axle was just going to fall out. I pulled those axles out a lot and they NEVER just FELL out in my hands.

I don't know why you have to bring up such and expensive snap ring point WOW did I learn the hard way on that one

[DevinSixtySeven]

Originally Posted by Imdone

I don't know why you have to bring up such and expensive snap ring point

Yeah, that part ended up costing, what, around forty grand?

Ben, haven't talked to the HOW yet. I think there are two more snowboarding weekends left, then I got a free weekend, the following weekend I'm busy, then it's roughly four weekends of wrenching season until wheeling season opens in the frontcountry and Utah. There's also a HOW South in April, I forget the date but might be the 12th? Check the HOW South thread on TTORA, if that's the date then I said I'd be there, and we could take care of your CV joint.

-Sean

[NuMb_FiNgErS]

Yeah I'll be there Sean, I'd really appreciate instruction and or help. Thanks a lot bro. How are the shackles coming along?

[DevinSixtySeven]

Good enough I guess, I might be one of the first making this particular change vs the standard below-frame hanger like the SAS guys use. It's really not that hard, mostly just looking for suggestions at the moment, but I think I've got all my measurements done.

[NuMb_FiNgErS]

Awesome, take a lot of pictures and keep us posted.