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Suspension & AxleTechnical discussions regarding alignment, stock and modified suspensions, lift kits, axles, hub conversions, gearing and steering.
This is a discussion thread titled "Is the Sequoia the only rear disc conversion available?", within the Suspension & Axle forum, part of the Technical & Vehicle Assistance Forums category.
above x 2
then
shim kit 18.78
fit kit 13.55
proportioning valve from aftermarket
new lines
Is this the best way to go? I don't know much about Toyotas so I am not sure if I searched well enough.
I did a rear disc conversion on my own car and it was pretty much: Caliper bracket, Caliper, Rotor, pads, Splash Shields (I left them off), Emerency Cables, 2 soft lines (I did Stainless steel), 4 line washers, pads and about 2 hours labor.
Also on the horizon he is thinking of more power and is looking at s/c, dual exhaust and the header packages but has told me the exhaust setups approach $2-$3k...ouch. The brakes are the most important now, then he will be looking into more options. He tows a 23' Dusky Open Fisherman pretty regularly.
Thanks
Chris
Moderators Note: The thread "Is the Sequoia the only rear disc conversion available?" has been moved to the Handling, Suspension & Brakes Forum for better exposure and replies. PM was sent to the thread starter of its relocation. --- Possum
I am not sure yet, proportioning valves aren't that complicated and I'd try to find one with the same thread pattern, but reflanging brake lines isn't difficult.
I'd try to get one from a top level braking company though.
I am not sure why he wants to change his exactly, I changed mine for two reasons: 1) way better pad than shoe selection 2) performance in the wet (south florida and a lot of puddles).
I know he gets alot of brake fade (maybe the tsb he just had done will fix that) especially with the boat and especially during the afternoon showers we have and with stop and go traffic almost everyday.
Originally posted by thecarguy If I had a tundra I wouldent waste the time converting to a disc setup. drums get the job done just fine.
Since you don't have a tundra how do you know?
Also that's not the point....one could say also a Tundra can pull just about anything it can tow, get to 60 mph just fine and looks functional from the factory...yet there are s/c, body kits, air intakes, etc.
As far as the benefit of disc brakes over drums, that is not the topic of my post. There are many, as well as disadvantages too. One would have to know the situation do determine the best brake for the job.
Some of the more practical benefits are way less fade, better wet braking, and much easier / cheaper maintenance.
On his truck you will not really be able to see the discs, he is doing it for better braking.
Originally posted by alkemyst I am not sure why he wants to change his exactly, I changed mine for two reasons: 1) way better pad than shoe selection 2) performance in the wet (south florida and a lot of puddles).
Are you getting more dry braking power? If you stump on the parking brake, will it lock-up the rear end?
In a drum setup if you are braking heavy going downhill (automatic without the ability to manually transbrake) you can heat up the rear drum setup enough that even the parking brake will not lock them up. With a disc setup you still may not be able to lock them, but you will have alot more ability to stop.
The main advantage is a disc 'clamps' and therefore the force can squeeze stronger (for a basic explaination), with a drum the force must expand to stop and the cylinders have only a limited range.
Maybe Tundra Solutions is the wrong forum to ask modification questions as it seems everyone thinks the trunk rolled out fine from the factory and one must be crazy to change things. Is there a more performance oriented Tundra site?
truck did not come fine from the factory, but the brakes are one thing that did. I used to have a 900 hp nova that had rear druns and it stopped just fine. Rear brakes arent really an issue. In cars and trucks the front brakes take care of 70% or the braking. Just get a high quality front pad (you dont even really need drilled, slotted rotors either) and a good solid rotor with plenty of vents around the circumfrence and youll be set.
Pickup trucks don't really need that much braking power in the rear unless you are towing heavy loads. The main advantage of a disc brake over a drum brake is fade resistance. Drum brakes can stop just as well as disc brakes until they fade (get too hot).
On the Tundra the front brakes do most of the braking.
__________________
stock exhaust
Formerly Modified JBA headers now SSautochrome headers temporarily
TRD LSD
Extang lift off tonneau
Hankook DynaPro AS RH03
stock air filter & box
220 HP @ 4800 RPM
302 TQ @ 3400 RPM Run With Spintech Sportsman XL muffler, stock air filter, and JBA headers
208 HP @ 4800 RPM
285 TQ @ 3400 RPM Run With Spintech Sportsman XL muffler, TRD air filter, and stock manifolds
204 HP @ 4800 RPM
271 TQ @ 3400 RPM Bone stock
Quarter mile 15.526 @ 87.17 mph bone stock in 40-degree weather 2WD SR5 V8.
Quarter mile 15.389 @ 88.66 mph modified in 60-degree weather 2WD SR5 V8.
0-60 IN 6.88 seconds on G-tech
Dyno run results click here
Dyno run 2 results click here
Front brakes do most of the work allright. Mine do about 90%. Rear brakes are only good for parking.
I can jam on the pedal in rain then no lockup and no ABS modulation. Just a firm stop.
I can probably stop the truck quicker with my shoes than using parking brake alone.
My Tundra does not need Sequoia's rear discs. It needs Tacoma's front brakes.