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Old 05-08-2003, 02:34 PM
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Default Replacing front shocks on Tundra

I am replacing the front shock on my Tundra. It looks like a spring compressor is required to get the front shocks off. Has any one had changed their front shocks, and know if this is required.
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Old 05-08-2003, 03:00 PM
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Not to take them off, but to disaasemble the springs from the shocks you do. There is a How-To in the "Garage"
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Old 05-09-2003, 02:22 AM
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At full extension of the A-arms, the coils are at their max extension- meaning that all you need to do is unbolt it. 4 bolts per side pretty straight forward
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Old 05-09-2003, 10:51 AM
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I will give it a try, thanks for the input.
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Old 05-11-2003, 01:21 PM
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Default front shock change

I'm also going to be changing front shocks. So as I understand it, lower the A-arm to full extension, onbolt the 3 or 4 nuts at the top plate, unbolt the bottom, and remove the shock/spring assembly. So now is the shock and spring a unit that needs to be taken apart, or did the spring just smack me in the head?

If the spring is still assembled with the shock, do I need to take it to someone to have it compressed, or can I do that? If I can get it apart myself, will I be able to reassemble it myself or will I need to get the springs banded at a spring shop?

I generally aquire my wisdom the hard way, so any help could save me some bruises.--------Thanks
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Old 05-11-2003, 02:28 PM
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Here's a quick how to as I just did this yesterday and it only takes about 20 minutes per side to R & I them. Jack up yer truck and put a jack stand under the frame near the front axle. Disconnect the 4 bolts under the spindle and remove the nut on top of the sway bar link. Take off the three nuts on top of the strut. Don't remove the center nut on the strut. Take of the Nut on the bolt at the bottom of the strut. Take your jack stand and lift your brake rotor a few inches. This lifts the CV up enough to knock out the bolt on the bottom of the strut. To reinstall, put the strut in and put nuts on top of the strut but don't fully tighten yet. Push down on the lower contol arm and slide the bottom of the strut into place. You may have to push down on the lower a-arm with one hand and get the bolt started with the other. Then it's just a matter of tightening everything back up. I used Lock Tite on all nuts. An electric impact wrench to disassemble speeds up the time considerably. Now that I've done them, I think I could R & I each side in 10 - 15 minutes. Autozone has free loaner coil spring compressors if you are changing out the coils.
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Old 05-22-2003, 04:35 PM
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I have daystar spacers. It looks like I have to pop the top ball joint to get the strut out. How do I get the arms compressed enough to re-install the ball joint (easy,medium or hard) Should I just pay a shop at this point
Thanks
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Old 05-22-2003, 04:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by evanspa
I have daystar spacers. It looks like I have to pop the top ball joint to get the strut out. How do I get the arms compressed enough to re-install the ball joint (easy,medium or hard) Should I just pay a shop at this point
Thanks
You do not need to disconnect the upper ball joint. If you've already done that, then with the truck on jack stands, use a floor jack and lift the spindle and lower a-arm up. Once you get it lifted high enough, you should be able to pull the upper arm down far enough on the ball joint to remount the bolt.
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Old 05-22-2003, 04:50 PM
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The spindle at this point hits the spring when fully extended. (will not go down any further)The bottom bolt on the shock is very tight due to the pressure between the bottom a-arm and chassis. Do I just punch out the bottom bolt and let it unload?
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Old 05-22-2003, 04:57 PM
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Are you trying to remove the coil assembly or install it back on with the spacers? The spindle is hitting the sping? I'm assuming then you have the Daystar kit installed and you are trying to bolt everything back on.
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Old 05-22-2003, 05:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by evanspa
Do I just punch out the bottom bolt and let it unload?
I wouldn't do that, youll most likely end up tearing a cv boot or worse getting hurt. Sounds like you need a spring compressor. Are the spacers already installed, or are you trying to install them? The spindle should not hit the springs at full extension
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Old 05-22-2003, 05:34 PM
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Well, here's the short version: failed fabtech install, put stock assy. back in, got the coils swapped, driver side is on pass. and verse visa. had a shop install daystars. now truck is 1/2" lower on drivers side. I want to swap them back. I think I can fit a compressor on the spring while in the truck, but not sure yet.
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Old 05-22-2003, 05:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by evanspa
Well, here's the short version: failed fabtech install, put stock assy. back in, got the coils swapped, driver side is on pass. and verse visa. had a shop install daystars. now truck is 1/2" lower on drivers side. I want to swap them back. I think I can fit a compressor on the spring while in the truck, but not sure yet.
Easy fix then! Read through Triple BB's instrucstions and use them to uninstall them and swith the coil assemblies to the correct side. Total work time should take about 1 hour at most. I'd offer a helping hand but Thousand Oaks is little too far from the Bay Area.

If after you switch the coil assemblies and the spindle is still hitting the coil spring, then you'll need to install limit straps. Limit straps limit the down travel so the spindle doesn't come into contact with the coil spring. We can deal with that if that happens later. Let us know what happens. Good luck!
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Old 05-23-2003, 12:40 AM
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The compressors will fit as that is how you have to install the springs after putting on the spacers. Kragen and Autozone do free tool loans.

The spring rates for the stock coils are different as you have discovered.

By the by why did the fabtech install go bad??
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Old 05-23-2003, 10:49 PM
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The fabtech (basic $430.) is a kind of a cheesy kit. There is a treaded colar that slips over the shock onto a ring, with 3 set screws to keep it from turning. During the install, adjusting the adjusting nut on one side went well. The other side siezed 1/2 way to the proper spot. The entire threaded collar began to spin on the shock. We could not loosen or tighten the adjusting nut. We had to drill a hole in the bottom of the collar to wedge a punch against the frame to keep it from turning. I'm sure if we had put some lube or anti-sieze on the threads this would not have happened. 20/20 hind site. I am very happy with the spacers!
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