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Suspension & AxleTechnical discussions regarding alignment, stock and modified suspensions, lift kits, axles, hub conversions, gearing and steering.
This is a discussion thread titled "Lifted Trucks, Please Check In!", within the Suspension & Axle forum, part of the Technical & Vehicle Assistance Forums category.
I wanted to go with 35's but was told they would rub and would fill the wheel wells to much. Next pair of sneakers will be 35's!
Thanks!
Don
Gotta love the benefits of this website!
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Truck: A big green shiny thing with lots of scratches and big tires that sounds loud and crawls over things.
Things That Have Been Broken Off-roading: Front right axle snapped (twice), turned the front diff into a metal milkshake (twice), CV Boots (lost count), Power Steering Rack.... thank god my service writer likes me!
This is good stuff, so here is my lift. 2 1/2' EZ lift, I added two leafs to each spring pack out back, 285/75/16 on MT classic 8" with 3 5/8" BS. I get alot of rubbing, so Wheeler coils R in the works. Can't go any higher WO locking hubs. When its time for new shoes I add a body lift and 35s with 4:88 grears.
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I now have an eight inch lift: in front I used the RCD 6"lift with a set of 2" lift coil springs from Wheeler Off Road, The manual hub kit comes from Off Road Solutions, There Is also a set of 4:88 grears. ( I'm loking for a LSD). The rear also has 4:88 grears and
a Eaton Limited slip, The spring pack is a custom 8' by Atlas Spring 25% over stock, I also Had Wenco Drive Shaft add about 3" to my drive shaft, The ride is dampened by Bilstien 5100 shocks, with BF Goodrich 315/75/16 TA km tires on Mickey Thomson 16X8 classic II wheels with 4.5 bs, and I have transform my Transformer gril guard by Warn to take a 8K lb. whinch with a set of Warn off road lights and my trusty HI-JACK
This is good stuff, so here is my lift. 2 1/2' EZ lift, I added two leafs to each spring pack out back, 285/75/16 on MT classic 8" with 3 5/8" BS. I get alot of rubbing, so Wheeler coils R in the works. Can't go any higher WO locking hubs. When its time for new shoes I add a body lift and 35s with 4:88 grears.
Unless you spend your life off-road, tow all the time, or never ever ever go on the highway for more than 20 miles, get 4.56's. It's the perfect gear ratio for our trucks and 35s, 4.88 is too much torque/terrible gas mileage, and 4.11's is too little a difference. I believe I heard somewhere on here that 4.30's is equivalent to stock, but they don't make that size for our trucks. Hope this helps. Oh, and if you decide not to get wheeler's, get anything but fabtech. It's the only shock that has had problems (not all, but some).
-A.J.
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Truck: A big green shiny thing with lots of scratches and big tires that sounds loud and crawls over things.
Things That Have Been Broken Off-roading: Front right axle snapped (twice), turned the front diff into a metal milkshake (twice), CV Boots (lost count), Power Steering Rack.... thank god my service writer likes me!
Ya, that what I thought. But I've been told that the charts I'm looking at don't acount for Overdrive, so I need the 4:88. It sounded right at the time.
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I now have an eight inch lift: in front I used the RCD 6"lift with a set of 2" lift coil springs from Wheeler Off Road, The manual hub kit comes from Off Road Solutions, There Is also a set of 4:88 grears. ( I'm loking for a LSD). The rear also has 4:88 grears and
a Eaton Limited slip, The spring pack is a custom 8' by Atlas Spring 25% over stock, I also Had Wenco Drive Shaft add about 3" to my drive shaft, The ride is dampened by Bilstien 5100 shocks, with BF Goodrich 315/75/16 TA km tires on Mickey Thomson 16X8 classic II wheels with 4.5 bs, and I have transform my Transformer gril guard by Warn to take a 8K lb. whinch with a set of Warn off road lights and my trusty HI-JACK
Unless you spend your life off-road, tow all the time, or never ever ever go on the highway for more than 20 miles, get 4.56's. It's the perfect gear ratio for our trucks and 35s, 4.88 is too much torque/terrible gas mileage, and 4.11's is too little a difference. I believe I heard somewhere on here that 4.30's is equivalent to stock, but they don't make that size for our trucks. Hope this helps. Oh, and if you decide not to get wheeler's, get anything but fabtech. It's the only shock that has had problems (not all, but some).
-A.J.
Sway away makes an awesome shock and I hear King is even better!
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2001 Tundra SR5 4x4
Mods: JBA Silver Ceramic Headers, Flowmaster 40 series single out, K&N FIPK, RAPS, ASP Underdrive pulley w/ gatorback belt, 3" Body Lift, 5" TC lift with Spindles, TW Extended Sway Away Race Runners to do away with the TC Spacer, Total Chaos Uppers, Bilstein 5100's, Deaver 11 stack, 4:56 gears with Detroit TrueTrac rear LSD, Line-X Spray In, Nitto Terra Grappler AT 315/75/16, Eagle 102's 16x10 Aluminum rims, True H.I.D. High-Low Beam, Phillips Crystal Vision 9005 Fogs, Altezza Tails, Clear Corners, Billet Grill And XM Satellite Roady 2
Future mods: STS Turbo w/FMU, Unichip, Trans shift mod and someother cool stuff.
Thanks alot for the tip. When these ProComps wear out, I'm going to get some 315/75/16's . Did you get your MT/R's yet?
Yeah, I thought my ProComp M/Ts were gunna wear out a lot quicker than they are, and I got my MT/R's with a great deal from tirerack.com in May, I'm just waiting for my current tires to wear out (my 1,100 mile road trip back to Cali in 2 weeks should help them wear out....) and then I'll put the MT/Rs on. And as to your previous statement about shocks... yes, Swayaways are good, TeamWest SwayAways are better, and Kings are arguably the best.
-A.J.
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Truck: A big green shiny thing with lots of scratches and big tires that sounds loud and crawls over things.
Things That Have Been Broken Off-roading: Front right axle snapped (twice), turned the front diff into a metal milkshake (twice), CV Boots (lost count), Power Steering Rack.... thank god my service writer likes me!
What's the difference between the Team West Sway Aways and the regular ones? I saw some pictures of the other guys trucks that had them turned upside down to get at the valve easier, but besides that what's the difference?
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2001 Tundra SR5 4x4
Mods: JBA Silver Ceramic Headers, Flowmaster 40 series single out, K&N FIPK, RAPS, ASP Underdrive pulley w/ gatorback belt, 3" Body Lift, 5" TC lift with Spindles, TW Extended Sway Away Race Runners to do away with the TC Spacer, Total Chaos Uppers, Bilstein 5100's, Deaver 11 stack, 4:56 gears with Detroit TrueTrac rear LSD, Line-X Spray In, Nitto Terra Grappler AT 315/75/16, Eagle 102's 16x10 Aluminum rims, True H.I.D. High-Low Beam, Phillips Crystal Vision 9005 Fogs, Altezza Tails, Clear Corners, Billet Grill And XM Satellite Roady 2
Future mods: STS Turbo w/FMU, Unichip, Trans shift mod and someother cool stuff.
What's the difference between the Team West Sway Aways and the regular ones? I saw some pictures of the other guys trucks that had them turned upside down to get at the valve easier, but besides that what's the difference?
From what I know, Bill (who runs TeamWest) has a Tundra, and is a top-notch mechanic with all the right tools, and he tuned the regular SwayAways to be Tundra-specific. 95% of people seem to love Bill and and his work, and there are about 5% that have had unfortunate experiences. Most on this site would highly reccomend him.
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Truck: A big green shiny thing with lots of scratches and big tires that sounds loud and crawls over things.
Things That Have Been Broken Off-roading: Front right axle snapped (twice), turned the front diff into a metal milkshake (twice), CV Boots (lost count), Power Steering Rack.... thank god my service writer likes me!
Swayaways are good, TeamWest SwayAways are better, and Kings are arguably the best.
arguably indeed, because for all their quality, the kings are still the shortest of the aftermarket options for the tundra. the tw saws will provide the most travel, period. plenty o' info on the faq, hit me with a pm if you still have questions, that faq was started last summer or so and is kind of a work in progress...but there is an explanation of several different coilover packages for the tundras included.
they are turned upside down also to keep gunk from building up around the seal.
tw saws + chaos uppers = ~10" front wheel travel, from limit strap to bump stop, and with a few other mods means 4" front lift on the coilovers alone, with plenty droop to spare.
on a 30k$ truck, why sweat the gears when you can get a second transfer case? youll have all the low gears you want, and it costs less than a built front suspension setup.
Thanks alot for the tip. When these ProComps wear out, I'm going to get some 315/75/16's . Did you get your MT/R's yet?
If you like alot of hum and non-smooth tire and a little vibe when you come to a rolling stop-get them. On the plus side- seem to be indestructable, aggressive as hell, and long wear so far. I have 30,000 plus and I don't see me buying new shoes anytime soon, which sucks for me, cause I want to switch to a more civilized tire. Nitto AT, BFG AT, Pro comp AT's? Any suggestion?
What I have- look below. The only thing that has changed is I have lowered my front to about 7" and replaced my rear 3" blocks with 1.5" blocks
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7"Front lift 315/75-16 BFGoodrich AT's on 16x8 MB Motoring with TC lift, Team West Coilovers, Deaver 3 leaf spring pack on 4" block with Bilstein 5100's in rear; Volant Intake; Spin-Tech Muff
Lifted
This is good stuff, so here is my lift. 2 1/2' EZ lift, I added two leafs to each spring pack out back, 285/75/16 on MT classic 8" with 3 5/8" BS. I get alot of rubbing, so Wheeler coils R in the works. Can't go any higher WO locking hubs. When its time for new shoes I add a body lift and 35s with 4:88 grears. 
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