NWOR rear springs - Toyota Tundra Forums : Tundra Solutions Forum

TRD4X4 · #1 (**permalink**) 10-15-2003, 10:30 PM

Hey everyone, I'm sure someone out there has talked about this before but I couldn't find any threads on it. I installed a set of SAW fronts and NWOR springs in the rear, but so far I hate the rear springs. When I got them, the paint was chipping off and they were rusting up (they looked like the original springs on my 77 FJ-40 do!). Then I installed them but they seem to not want to move at all. They feel like they are made for a 1-ton truck, and I have to literally roll over any bumps because otherwise it rattles my entire cab. They are extremely stiff, and I was wondering if anyone else was having this problem or maybe they sent me the wrong ones. I talked to them already but they just sent me a card asking me to send them back and they'll look at them. Much good that does me if the original springs are back home (I'm away at school), and I dont want to drive back just to change out the springs, then have to change them out again when they send me another pair. Please let me know if any of you have any suggestions. Thanks.

Coronelli · #2 (**permalink**) 10-15-2003, 10:42 PM

I here ya, I have the same problem. I put the exact same setup on my trucksMy truck has a major stinkbug affect going on. The NWOR rear heavy duty leafs were supposed to add 1/2-1"...they really added 3" plus.

Frankly, I just gave up and left them in. I don't have the time to take them back out. On the plus side, I can load the c@@p out of my truck and it sits level

breakmark · #3 (**permalink**) 10-20-2003, 04:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Coronelli

I here ya, I have the same problem. I put the exact same setup on my trucksMy truck has a major stinkbug affect going on. The NWOR rear heavy duty leafs were supposed to add 1/2-1"...they really added 3" plus.

Frankly, I just gave up and left them in. I don't have the time to take them back out. On the plus side, I can load the c@@p out of my truck and it sits level

Another data point: I have the NWOR springs and SAWs as well. I also seem to have about 2-3 inches of lift when they were supposed to be 3/4" according to NWOR. Personally, although I find the springs very stiff, I'm doing OK with them. I'm a little annoyed about the articulation that I've lost, but as you noted, I can load the back up forever without worries about the springs. I'll never be able to hit the bumpstops, lets put it that way. Since my alternatives are putting the stock springs back in (way too soft, and I'd lose my nice clearance), or buying a new spring pack (how would I justify the expense of new springs to my fiancee? "Yeah hon, I want to replace the stiff springs with some softer ones rather than spend it on the honeymoon."

**WHAM!**) I'm sticking with them. For what its worth though, the more gear thrown in the back, the better the springs ride. With a fulltime campershell and about 400 lbs of gear, I'm OK with it. Make sure you have good rear shocks, or the damn things will make your rear end bounce all over the road, however.

Chris

Coronelli · #4 (**permalink**) 10-20-2003, 04:12 PM

That's just what I have found. 500 pounds in the bed and the truck rides like a dream. I really need to replace my rear shocks though, the stock TRD ones can't handle the new springs.

Any idea on what to replace them with?

DevinSixtySeven · #5 (**permalink**) 10-20-2003, 05:55 PM

you will need to load about 800# in the bed and drive around with it for a few days. those nwor springs are about 800# i believe, from what joe said a while back...he had the same ones. they are MUCH too stiff for a tundra. even the +500# springs i have from alcan are a bit stiff for what i do, by about 200# or so, but if i towed or hauled bikes or whatever regularly, they'd be perfect.

before the springs are broken in with some weight in the bed, they will ride like a buckboard.

in the future, go with alcan, tom is real easy to work with, and you can specify exactly how much weight you'll want them to carry on a regular basis--that's what determines the pounds-over number, ie if you have 200# in the bed when you go wheeling, you want +200# springs.

-sean

breakmark · #6 (**permalink**) 10-22-2003, 09:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Coronelli

That's just what I have found. 500 pounds in the bed and the truck rides like a dream. I really need to replace my rear shocks though, the stock TRD ones can't handle the new springs.

Any idea on what to replace them with?

I'm actually still debating that. I'm running the stock shocks, and I'm OK with them (the blue/yellow TRD Bilsteins) but I'm concerned that the lift may put them close to the point where they bottom out. I don't think I have any more than a couple of inches of play. When I talked to Bill West last time, I discussed rear shocks with him, but didn't get any really good ideas. I'm pondering Ranchos or perhaps Fox. Does SAW make an appropriate length shock for the purpose? Maybe I should go SAW all around. hmmm

DevinSixtySeven · #7 (**permalink**) 10-22-2003, 09:35 AM

have you considered the bilstein 5100 shocks? it's not too difficult to fab a conversion plate, just take a piece of steel and bend it--dyogim has a pic i think.

afaik, you can get any length you want from saw.

breakmark · #8 (**permalink**) 10-22-2003, 10:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DeepStealth

have you considered the bilstein 5100 shocks? it's not too difficult to fab a conversion plate, just take a piece of steel and bend it--dyogim has a pic i think.

afaik, you can get any length you want from saw.

Conversion plate: to allow a heim joint on top? I'm pretty sure I don't have enough travel to justify a truly flexible upper mounting... I'll have to check out Dyogim's pics.

Short answer - no, I hadn't considered the bilstein 5100s. How do they compare to the stock yellow/blues, or the red bilsteins?

DevinSixtySeven · #9 (**permalink**) 10-22-2003, 11:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by breakmark

Conversion plate: to allow a heim joint on top? I'm pretty sure I don't have enough travel to justify a truly flexible upper mounting... I'll have to check out Dyogim's pics.

Short answer - no, I hadn't considered the bilstein 5100s. How do they compare to the stock yellow/blues, or the red bilsteins?

maybe its the 5150, i dont remember what hes running now. it's not really to run a heim, it's just so you can run any "normal" shock in the back, without having to hunt for the one or two manufacturers that provide a stem top mount.

breakmark · #10 (**permalink**) 10-22-2003, 11:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DeepStealth

maybe its the 5150, i dont remember what hes running now. it's not really to run a heim, it's just so you can run any "normal" shock in the back, without having to hunt for the one or two manufacturers that provide a stem top mount.

Yeah, I figured it out as soon as I looked at his pics. That makes sense, and is probably the way it should have been done from the start at the factory, really. I don't have the tools to make the mounts, but I bet one of the machine shops near my office could do it in 10 minutes for $10, depending on how busy they were. Any idea on the pricing? Thats probably a good question for Dyogim, though...

TRD4X4 · #11 (**permalink**) 11-23-2003, 09:49 AM

Hey, has anyone tried taking a leaf out of the NWOR springs? I am finally going to have time to fix it this winter break and I want to have a plan beforehand. I need to change the shocks and do something about the springs.
My plan so far is to go buy a bed full of dirt (I need some for another project anyway) and just let it sit in the truck for a couple days. That should let the springs get some stress relaxation in them and soften up a little. I also need to change the shocks and am probably going with some bil. 5150s. So does anyone have any experience with removing leafs? Also, does anyone know if you are supposed to grease up those little yellow pads between the springs? Thanks.

breakmark · #12 (**permalink**) 11-23-2003, 11:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TRD4X4

Hey, has anyone tried taking a leaf out of the NWOR springs? I am finally going to have time to fix it this winter break and I want to have a plan beforehand. I need to change the shocks and do something about the springs.
My plan so far is to go buy a bed full of dirt (I need some for another project anyway) and just let it sit in the truck for a couple days. That should let the springs get some stress relaxation in them and soften up a little. I also need to change the shocks and am probably going with some bil. 5150s. So does anyone have any experience with removing leafs? Also, does anyone know if you are supposed to grease up those little yellow pads between the springs? Thanks.

I've thought about removing the bottom leaf several times, but just haven't done it yet (or tried it yet, I should say). If you do try it, post your experiences, 'cause some of us may follow suit! As for the pads, yes, they are supposed to be greased. When I first put my springs on, I greased them, and recently, I played with prying the leaves apart and getting grease in on both top and bottom. I don't know if it helps, but my pads haven't worn out yet after a few years. There is a convenient little "port" on the bottom for injecting grease too.

breakmark · #13 (**permalink**) 04-03-2004, 07:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TRD4X4

Hey, has anyone tried taking a leaf out of the NWOR springs?

Quote:

Originally Posted by breakmark

I've thought about removing the bottom leaf several times, but just haven't done it yet (or tried it yet, I should say). If you do try it, post your experiences, 'cause some of us may follow suit!

**bump**

TRD4X4? Try this yet? I'm thinking about removing the lowest leaf from the NWOR spring pack (it looks kinda like an AAL anyhow) and was wondering if you'd tried it yet?