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Suspension & AxleTechnical discussions regarding alignment, stock and modified suspensions, lift kits, axles, hub conversions, gearing and steering.
This is a discussion thread titled "Vibration Problems......", within the Suspension & Axle forum, part of the Technical & Vehicle Assistance Forums category.
I just wanted to let you guys know about a problem I found today. A lot of us are complaining of brake problems from Vibration. I think it may be the factory rims. I too have had the problems with vibrations. I just put new tires on the truck today and it minimized the vibration but it was still there. They tested the rims and there is quite a bit of run out in them. I am putting new rims on the truck tomorrow. I will post on how it helps the problems. I just think that the vibration is evident when you brake because it is changing the speed of the rotation enough to allow the little vibrations to be multiplied through the braking. I think this is something you guys might want to consider as well. By the way I had the cheaper stamped wheels. Not the custom (higher end) wheels and tires.
I just wanted to let you guys know about a problem I found today. A lot of us are complaining of brake problems from Vibration. I think it may be the factory rims. I too have had the problems with vibrations. I just put new tires on the truck today and it minimized the vibration but it was still there. They tested the rims and there is quite a bit of run out in them. I am putting new rims on the truck tomorrow. I will post on how it helps the problems. I just think that the vibration is evident when you brake because it is changing the speed of the rotation enough to allow the little vibrations to be multiplied through the braking. I think this is something you guys might want to consider as well. By the way I had the cheaper stamped wheels. Not the custom (higher end) wheels and tires.
Is your vibration more in the front, rear or split evenly between both? I've had both front and rear TSBs done and I'm still getting vibrations when braking, mostly in the rear. However, the brake pedal does not pulse as with warped rotors and drums. I've had the tires and wheels road forced balanced, but just can't seem to get rid of the vibrations. I'm with you when you say that braking may be just multiplying the vibration and perhaps not the actual cause.
Got the new rims on today and the vibrations are gone. The brakes don't vibrate either when braking hard....HMMMMM. CHECK YOUR RIMS......They may be out of tolerance.......
Quote:
Originally Posted by TriTundra
Is your vibration more in the front, rear or split evenly between both? I've had both front and rear TSBs done and I'm still getting vibrations when braking, mostly in the rear. However, the brake pedal does not pulse as with warped rotors and drums. I've had the tires and wheels road forced balanced, but just can't seem to get rid of the vibrations. I'm with you when you say that braking may be just multiplying the vibration and perhaps not the actual cause.
Got the new rims on today and the vibrations are gone. The brakes don't vibrate either when braking hard....HMMMMM. CHECK YOUR RIMS......They may be out of tolerance.......
There is more to this than you might think.
At the factory, the wheels and tires are mounted pretty carefully. For each one, the runout of the rim is measured, and the "radial force variation" of the tire is measured. The "hard spot" of the tire is matched to the "low spot" of the rim, thereby minimizing the overall radial force variation. (For those who are REALLY into this, it's the first order harmonics that are matched.) The result is minimized runout of the tire/wheel combination. This is what makes new vehicles have a "new car ride", even with cheap tires.
What I bring this up is that the rim MUST have some runout to be able to counter the radial force variation of the tire. If the rim has no runout, there is nothing to "match" with the tire, and you are stuck with however much radial force variation the tire has. So, don't reject a rim just because it has runout -- it's the combination of the rim and the tire that must be right.
For aftermarket mounting of wheels and tires, the Hunter GSP9700 and GSP9712 match the wheel and tire the same way. These are the ONLY aftermarket machines that do this. You can find one near you at http://www.gsp9700.com
Exactly how are your new rims and tires matched up? Beats me -- only these machines can tell. The fact that changing ONLY the rims eliminated the vibration tells you they matched up different from the old rims. It worked, though, and ain't it nice when the vibrations stop?
Incidentally, the Toyota alloy wheels on my Tundra and Sequoia have a measured runout MAXIMUM of about 0.003 inches, which is really round.
I have recently put new rubbers on my IS wheels. I've had the vibration problem fixed and gone and back again even when using the hunter machine you recommend and the TSB procedure. I've also had the use the lugcentric adaptor. I've had the dunlops for about 26 months 38K mi.
I switched to Pirelli 285/65-16 which is basically the same as the dunlop except about 3/4 in. wider (according to some tire size calculator the speedo should suffer minimally and the over all tire is just a little wider). I still have the vibration. I've been thinking of doing the alignment specs you recommend, which up to this point I still hadn't tried.
My question to you is: Will the increased width in the tire bring on new problems or should the aligment specs help some? Or should I just live with it and not bother? The new tires look sweet on the wheels, I'm going for the sporty look----I know, I know it's a Truck!
At the factory, the wheels and tires are mounted pretty carefully. For each one, the runout of the rim is measured, and the "radial force variation" of the tire is measured. The "hard spot" of the tire is matched to the "low spot" of the rim, thereby minimizing the overall radial force variation. (For those who are REALLY into this, it's the first order harmonics that are matched.) The result is minimized runout of the tire/wheel combination. This is what makes new vehicles have a "new car ride", even with cheap tires.
What I bring this up is that the rim MUST have some runout to be able to counter the radial force variation of the tire. If the rim has no runout, there is nothing to "match" with the tire, and you are stuck with however much radial force variation the tire has. So, don't reject a rim just because it has runout -- it's the combination of the rim and the tire that must be right.
For aftermarket mounting of wheels and tires, the Hunter GSP9700 and GSP9712 match the wheel and tire the same way. These are the ONLY aftermarket machines that do this. You can find one near you at http://www.gsp9700.com
Exactly how are your new rims and tires matched up? Beats me -- only these machines can tell. The fact that changing ONLY the rims eliminated the vibration tells you they matched up different from the old rims. It worked, though, and ain't it nice when the vibrations stop?
Incidentally, the Toyota alloy wheels on my Tundra and Sequoia have a measured runout MAXIMUM of about 0.003 inches, which is really round.
I actually had one rim replaced because one of the runout specs was .22 when the tolerance was I think .19. Anyway the runout was very noticable by the naked eye. It had quite a bit of variance. Anyways, the new rims are wonderful. Check out my photos.....
I actually had one rim replaced because one of the runout specs was .22 when the tolerance was I think .19. Anyway the runout was very noticable by the naked eye. It had quite a bit of variance. Anyways, the new rims are wonderful. Check out my photos.....
they shimmed my driveline and it helped. it may be the carrier support.
__________________
"Come to me those of you who are weary and burdened and I will give you rest" MATT 11:28
I have recently put new rubbers on my IS wheels. I've had the vibration problem fixed and gone and back again even when using the hunter machine you recommend and the TSB procedure. I've also had the use the lugcentric adaptor. I've had the dunlops for about 26 months 38K mi.
I switched to Pirelli 285/65-16 which is basically the same as the dunlop except about 3/4 in. wider (according to some tire size calculator the speedo should suffer minimally and the over all tire is just a little wider). I still have the vibration. I've been thinking of doing the alignment specs you recommend, which up to this point I still hadn't tried.
My question to you is: Will the increased width in the tire bring on new problems or should the aligment specs help some? Or should I just live with it and not bother? The new tires look sweet on the wheels, I'm going for the sporty look----I know, I know it's a Truck!
Thanks in advance!
I would align it to my specs in any case. If you're using factory wheels, meaning the backspacing is the same, the increased width of the tires will likely be unnoticeable.
On my 03' I notice the vibration more empty, than with weight in the back so it goes back to the valve?
I feel the same way. My truck has an annoying little shudder starting fron a stop, but this is always gone with a few hundred pounds in the bed. I also notice that when I've had the rear end jacked up for work the vibe seems to go away for about a day. This leads me to believe that the proportioning valve has something to do with it but I've never been able to figure out why. Maybe tomorrow I'll just disconnect the valve and secure it in the full up position temporarily to test this theory (off road of coarse). Wes
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Vibration Problems......
Linear Mode
