You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!
If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us.
Suspension & AxleTechnical discussions regarding alignment, stock and modified suspensions, lift kits, axles, hub conversions, gearing and steering.
This is a discussion thread titled "Reason for Hose Clamp Mod??", within the Suspension & Axle forum, part of the Technical & Vehicle Assistance Forums category.
I lifted the front using wheelers coils and now my boots are spitting grease. I have read all about the hose clamp mod that is being done for this and thats great. Here is what I am thinking though and I want you guys to comment on this: By lifting the front we are changing the angle of the CV joint and therefore changing the angle and interior space inside the CV boot. The grease spitting out is because there is no longer the same amount of interior space inside the boot due to the new angle. Since the interior space is less and the amount of grease the same, it spits grease out. Wouldn't it stand to reason that once the amount of grease inside the boot is equal to the amount of interior space inside the boot that it would stop spitting grease and we wouldn't need to do the mod? Opinions/Comments? I want you guys input before I go and do this mod.
your thinking is logical, however there's precious little space inside that boot to begin with.
also, when you flex the suspension, the boot will return to its original shape, but compressed now from the lack of fluid, i'd think either the baffles will suck together or it will draw in air/fluid to compensate. there's a lot of room for grease in the cv joint, but i'd clamp them down with as much grease inside as possible to prevent the boot from rubbing on itself or drawing in contaminants...course i could also be nuts...
The stock clamps on mine were loose...I could actually turn them on the boot. There was no way to tighten them either, so for the cost of 5 dollars a guy can replace the works with something that can be tightened. Great value.
mike
__________________
Unichip'd TRD Supercharger & 5.9 Overboost Crank Pulley,TRD Boost guage and Oak color matched pod,TRD LSD,Valvebody Upgrade by IPT in NY, JBA headers,Y pipe, K&N(Evol) SS catback exhaust, Helwig Rear antisway bar, Rear custom Leafpack,TRD Coils,Cornfed Spacers's with Y/B Bilsteins,Westin Outdoorsman Bushbar and Nerf Tubes, TRD Ivan Stewart 16X8 Rims and 285/75/R16 Revo AT tires.Pioneer 5500 MP3 Head unit/Q-Logic sub enclosure with dual crossfire subs/ 700 watts of Crossfire Amps/Bazooka 6.5's and 5.25's in Kickpanels/ CodeAlarm Remote starter/antitheft system.
the stock ones on mine were loose as well, and you could spin them by hand as well, factory sht just doesn't cut it. I replaced them with actual hose clamps and no more problems
I did the hose clamp mod on mine today as well. I used a band type cv joint clamp but it uses a special tool to tighten them down. You can crank them down as tight as you want but they fit the groove on the boots just like the factory ones do. It was a little tricky getting them to stay completely tight while I backed the tool to tighten them off, but I got the hang of it on the second try. I may end up having to redo them one more time to get them tight enough as I was a little leary at first to really, really crank them down. Good option for those wanting to use "stock looking" clamps. The only reason I really care at all is if I take it in for warranty service I want no reason for questions.
I did the hose clamp mod on mine today as well. I used a band type cv joint clamp but it uses a special tool to tighten them down. You can crank them down as tight as you want but they fit the groove on the boots just like the factory ones do. It was a little tricky getting them to stay completely tight while I backed the tool to tighten them off, but I got the hang of it on the second try. I may end up having to redo them one more time to get them tight enough as I was a little leary at first to really, really crank them down. Good option for those wanting to use "stock looking" clamps. The only reason I really care at all is if I take it in for warranty service I want no reason for questions.
Where did you find the hose clamps that are thinner that are the same width as the clamps that are on the stock boots.
Forum Rules
Searching for an answer to your Tundra or other Toyota question? search HERE!
Got a question 'bout TS.com site policy? click HERE!
Ready to create a new thread? WATCH THIS VIDEO FIRST.
I've been monitoring my CV boots closely since installing a Cornfed 2" lift and a Total Chaos 1" diff drop. Still no problems with leaking grease, but was thinking of doing the boot mod anyway. Looked all over for narrow hose clamps and had almost given up. While waiting in line at Larry's Auto Parts in Goleta(www.Larrys8dayAutoParts.com) there they were. A whole row of various length narrow hose clamps. I asked the counter guy what they were for and he gave me the standard "don't you know anything?" look and said "CV boots". Haven't purchased any yet, but as soon as I measure the proper size for the Tundra I'll do the mod with these clamps. They look to fit inside the CV boot groove.
__________________
Ivan Stewart Body Kit; IS Wheels; Clear Corners w/ silverstar 3157A bulbs; Snug Top SuperSport cap; Marathon Super Hides seat covers in Shadow Grass; Husky floor liners; Toyota self-dimming rear-view mirror w/ temp & compass; Yakima Track Racks; debadged; Colgan front mask (only when going off-road); Cornfed 2 inch lift; Fabtech add-a-leaf; Total Chaos 1 inch differential drop kit; silver/blue TRD Offroad decal from Street Graphics.net; Line-X spray-in liner; 2005 tail lights; tailgate seal; Challenger Step Bars; Hellwig sway bar w/ Frontrange disconnects; SolidWiring Technology FOG603 foglamp mod & DRL601 switchable DRLs; battery manager; Prodigy brake controller.
I've been monitoring my CV boots closely since installing a Cornfed 2" lift and a Total Chaos 1" diff drop. Still no problems with leaking grease, but was thinking of doing the boot mod anyway. Looked all over for narrow hose clamps and had almost given up. While waiting in line at Larry's Auto Parts in Goleta(www.Larrys8dayAutoParts.com) there they were. A whole row of various length narrow hose clamps. I asked the counter guy what they were for and he gave me the standard "don't you know anything?" look and said "CV boots". Haven't purchased any yet, but as soon as I measure the proper size for the Tundra I'll do the mod with these clamps. They look to fit inside the CV boot groove.
if it fits inside the groove then it'll work. It takes just a simple hose clamp to
make sure you wont be leaking grease. Well worth the effort to install the new clamps.
TundraSolutions.com is a registered trademark of Tundra Solutions, Inc.
Other trademarks and brands are the property of their respective owners. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of the TundraSolutions.com User Agreement and Privacy Policy.
Reason for Hose Clamp Mod??
Linear Mode
