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Suspension & AxleTechnical discussions regarding alignment, stock and modified suspensions, lift kits, axles, hub conversions, gearing and steering.
This is a discussion thread titled "Busted a Wheel Stud", within the Suspension & Axle forum, part of the Technical & Vehicle Assistance Forums category.
Damn man i have no idea how this happend -i used a impact on #2 setting till the lugs got snug then i stoped and reached for the four-way like i always do and on the last lug ( isnt it always the last one that bites you in the *** )
yup -BAM - so one broken wheel stud in the front right -anyone know where i can find directions on the proper way to change this myself? - i cant even find instructions on pulling the caliper off- can anyone steer me towards the info i will need to change this? thanks
Why were you using an impact wrench.. thats a no no to seat lugs. You're supposed to thread them on until they're snug then use a torque wrench after that, in a pattern you choose so it seats the wheel properly onto the hub
Sanosuke!
Return To Japan - Spring 2004 (Bonus: Singapore)
Dunno if it's the proper way, but I had this happen on one of my old cars:
1) Cut off the remains of the stud (cut off wheel / angle grinder / air chisel / etc), and use a hammer and chisel/punch to push the rest out of the hub.
2) Insert new stud
Took about 30 minutes for the repair place to replace it once they got the part in (which took about 2 hours). They'd stripped it in the same manner you did, using an impact wrench to start it, then trying to torque it by hand.
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Genthar
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just take a hammer and knock out the old one, then simply slip in the new one, Tighten on a lug nut to seat the stud. BTW the stealship charges way too much for them.....
two good replies -thanks but i know using the hammer and punch method will cause undue stress on the wheel bearings -so is there a puller/pusher tool designed for grabing back of hub and screwing to push the stud out the back?
im wondering if the dealer would fix this under waranty due to the truck only being 6 months old ya i know its a long shot......
Hammer and punch,I don't follow?I always assumed that the studs were threaded in,but if that were so,you couldn't push them out with a hammer and punch?Are they just pushed in from the back with no threading?Thanks,Charlie
hey bro i sent you a pm, also i can look later at the manual for the stud r&r procedure if nobody posts a definate before i get home...gimme a call this evening if you want.
Generally the ones I've ever replaced are just pressed in with serrations on the rear portion to keep the stud from spinning in the hub. Unless they are really corroded or rusted at the hub they should come out without damage to the bearings or drive train using a hammer and punch. AutoZone or NAPA may have a rental puller that'd work to remove it if that'd make you feel better.
Larry
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2004 Tundra V8 Limited Access Cab 4X4 , Auto Dim Comp/Temp Mirror, Aero Turbine #2525 muffler, Access Roll Up Cover, Optima D31A battery, Multi-Vex adaptive outside mirrors, Eclipse AVN5510 Nav unit and Sirius SIR-ECL1 tuner as of 10/07 pictures in my photo gallery
If a combo of all these whizz bangs met their claims you'd have to syphon gas out of your tank every second day and sell the excess horsepower on the third????
Folks are making this a little harder than it really is. Just remove the necessary parts to gain access, such as brake rotor or drom, then take a ball-peen hammer and give the stud one rar on the thread end and it will pop right out. I just replaced all the studs on the front, took me 5 minutes to remove them. It's easy, don't worry about it. Put the new stud in place and use an old or extra lug nut and a couple washers, thread the lug nut on backwards, that's flat end of nut toward the wheel surface, then tighten until the body of the new stud pulls into place.
Have fun!
__________________ 2001 Factory I. S., TRD supercharger, Downey headers, K&N FIPK w/ ram air, Flowmaster muffler, home built dual exhaust exiting through cutout in side of bed, 5-link SAS w/ King 12" coilovers and Rubicon Express flex joints, Alcan 7-leaf rear springs, home made shackle flip, U-bolt flip kit, homemade traction bar, Bilstien 5150 14" travel rear shocks on O.R.S. mounts, rebuilt IFS steering box with 1.5" ram, braided lines, 4.88 gears w/ front and rear ARBs, Eagle Racing 15X10 589's, 37" XT's, ARB front bumper, T-Max 9500, Synthetic winch rope, spray-in bed liner, Rhino coated homemade roof rack, rock sliders, and rear bumper/slider, roof, and lower side body Rino liner coated, 4 Pro-Comp lights 130 watt driving lights, 2: roof rack, 2: bumper mounted
Folks are making this a little harder than it really is. Just remove the necessary parts to gain access, such as brake rotor or drom, then take a ball-peen hammer and give the stud one rar on the thread end and it will pop right out. I just replaced all the studs on the front, took me 5 minutes to remove them. It's easy, don't worry about it. Put the new stud in place and use an old or extra lug nut and a couple washers, thread the lug nut on backwards, that's flat end of nut toward the wheel surface, then tighten until the body of the new stud pulls into place.
Have fun!
thanks man -i have done this on old junkers back in my school days i just was wondering if there might be a better way - ill take it to the dealer and see if they want at it under waranty -if not then ill do it myself this week -
anyone know the exact size of the wheel stud - toyota wants $4.48 each im figuring i can buy them at a parts store but i want to make sure its the correct size for sure. thanks guys -
thanks man -i have done this on old junkers back in my school days i just was wondering if there might be a better way - ill take it to the dealer and see if they want at it under waranty -if not then ill do it myself this week -
anyone know the exact size of the wheel stud - toyota wants $4.48 each im figuring i can buy them at a parts store but i want to make sure its the correct size for sure. thanks guys -
DO NOT BUY ANYTHING FROM TOYOTA!!!! Those guys charge a huge premium, I got mine from NAPA for 89 cents apiece! Want to go cool? Purchase the long ARP studs for a ford car, not exactly sure which knurl size, (I could measure it if you need it) and install long studs. Much better quality and you can use a longer lug nut for better holding. Just an idea...
__________________ 2001 Factory I. S., TRD supercharger, Downey headers, K&N FIPK w/ ram air, Flowmaster muffler, home built dual exhaust exiting through cutout in side of bed, 5-link SAS w/ King 12" coilovers and Rubicon Express flex joints, Alcan 7-leaf rear springs, home made shackle flip, U-bolt flip kit, homemade traction bar, Bilstien 5150 14" travel rear shocks on O.R.S. mounts, rebuilt IFS steering box with 1.5" ram, braided lines, 4.88 gears w/ front and rear ARBs, Eagle Racing 15X10 589's, 37" XT's, ARB front bumper, T-Max 9500, Synthetic winch rope, spray-in bed liner, Rhino coated homemade roof rack, rock sliders, and rear bumper/slider, roof, and lower side body Rino liner coated, 4 Pro-Comp lights 130 watt driving lights, 2: roof rack, 2: bumper mounted
well i called them and told them i was bringing it down-
they told me fine -
got there and the had me pull it in-
they said they would put it on lift and examine it-
i told them i used a tq. wrench and it broke and they said
THEY REPLACED THE STUD AND LUG UNDER WARRANTY -thats not even the best part - i tell them it shakes when breaking at slow speed so they set it up with a dail indicator find the rotors slightly out of spec. and then they go ahead and turn them down while on the hubs for free !
all warranty work -no hassle -no problems -great experience
ROMANO TOYOTA in Syracuse N.Y. has great service dept. -
i expected the worse from them and got the best!
2nd - remove caliper ( two large bolts on back side )
now be carfull.....
3rd - get a short bungie cord ready and remove the caliper with brake line still conected and hold it up so no weight is stressing the brake line and use the bungie cord to hold it in that position. ( dont let the caliper hang down by the brake line-you will damage the line )
4th - remove the rotor -at this point you can slap it on the back side and it should pop off.
5th - now use a air hammer with a blunt tip attachment and hit the broken stud and it will pop out the back of the hub. dont hit the hub with the hammer - use of a regular hammer and punch may also work but im not recomending this unless theres no other choice.
6th - replace the stud with a new one by placing it in from the back side and taping it in slightly -now use a lug to draw it in if its not seated all the way up.
7th - your done - go back through the steps and button everything back up.
no more than 85 ft. lbs. should ever be used on wheel lugs -
if any of this info seems wrong please feel free to let me know and i will edit.
[quote=mandzach] i tell them it shakes when breaking at slow speed so they set it up with a dail indicator find the rotors slightly out of spec. and then they go ahead and turn them down while on the hubs
QUOTE]
not to discount your shop or anything, but shouldnt they have replaced your rotors for free under warranty?? Sounds to me like the brake issue that everyone else is having, and they get their rotors turned, and vibrations come back. I don't know if your VIN# applies, but i'd check it out.
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i tell them it shakes when breaking at slow speed so they set it up with a dail indicator find the rotors slightly out of spec. and then they go ahead and turn them down while on the hubs
QUOTE]
not to discount your shop or anything, but shouldnt they have replaced your rotors for free under warranty?? Sounds to me like the brake issue that everyone else is having, and they get their rotors turned, and vibrations come back. I don't know if your VIN# applies, but i'd check it out.
i checked it out -my vin# is not included in the TSB - im happy with the work they did and if it happens again its in my service record (front rotor issue) so next time it will be new rotors. I can not blame toyota for this 100% because i do stop at times from high speed.
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Busted a Wheel Stud
ya i know its a long shot......
2001 Factory I. S., TRD supercharger, Downey headers, K&N FIPK w/ ram air, Flowmaster muffler, home built dual exhaust exiting through cutout in side of bed, 5-link SAS w/ King 12" coilovers and Rubicon Express flex joints, Alcan 7-leaf rear springs, home made shackle flip, U-bolt flip kit, homemade traction bar, Bilstien 5150 14" travel rear shocks on O.R.S. mounts, rebuilt IFS steering box with 1.5" ram, braided lines, 4.88 gears w/ front and rear ARBs, Eagle Racing 15X10 589's, 37" XT's, ARB front bumper, T-Max 9500, Synthetic winch rope, spray-in bed liner, Rhino coated homemade roof rack, rock sliders, and rear bumper/slider, roof, and lower side body Rino liner coated, 4 Pro-Comp lights 130 watt driving lights, 2: roof rack, 2: bumper mounted
im figuring i can buy them at a parts store but i want to make sure its the correct size for sure. thanks guys -
for free ! 
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