Okay, I heard about this because I saw a guy in the parking lot in a lifted Tundra and talked his ear off asking every question I could. He told me to check this site out. I have a 2000 Toyota Tundra. I had a full size lifted Chevy pick up w/ exhaust before. I don't miss the truck, but I have to have the exhaust and lift. I have a older p/u with an 8" lift and a 4runner with a 4" lift and the best out of the three is stock. I don't want to jump into something before I research it. So if you have any info. (Whether you learned it the hard way or not), I'd love to hear it. I'm looking at a leveling kit, body lift, rims, tires, and dual exauhst out the back. (I'd like a full suspension lift, but I think I am out of luck on that.) Please get back to me.
-stryke
i currently have a severely jaded opinion about messing with a good design, though i do have a suspension lift and a lot of other stuff that i may or may not regret later. the stock design is a well-thought-out design. if you rely on your tundra as a daily driver and workhorse, resist the temptation to lift without a very good reason, as you already have two lifted vehicles probably better equipped for the trails. a lift is nice, but changing the ifs from the nominal ride position puts increasing force on components that werent meant to take that force, while lifting the rear does the same but to different components (u-bolts, brake line, driveshaft). peruse the links in my signature line for more information.
you will trade reliability for good looks and/or offroad performance, keep that in mind before you decide to lift your tundra.
Okay, I heard about this because I saw a guy in the parking lot in a lifted Tundra and talked his ear off asking every question I could. He told me to check this site out. I have a 2000 Toyota Tundra. I had a full size lifted Chevy pick up w/ exhaust before. I don't miss the truck, but I have to have the exhaust and lift. I have a older p/u with an 8" lift and a 4runner with a 4" lift and the best out of the three is stock. I don't want to jump into something before I research it. So if you have any info. (Whether you learned it the hard way or not), I'd love to hear it. I'm looking at a leveling kit, body lift, rims, tires, and dual exauhst out the back. (I'd like a full suspension lift, but I think I am out of luck on that.) Please get back to me.
-stryke
if i was you ide go with some kings or sway aways cant go wrong with either. u can ajust to w.e height u want between 0-3ish for the front. then ide go with MT classic II's rims with some dueler at revos in 285 75 16's mounted.
matt
4x4 vs 4x2 will make a bit of difference in which route you can go as well. With the 4x4 you're limited to about 2.5" or less due to the CV joints in the front, as well as the upper control arm, though there's a diff drop spacer available now that can help alleviate that CV angle a bit. Not sure off the top of my head what the 4x2 can lift to, but I know there's a FAQ around here about lifting, suspension components and such. Check Devinsixtyseven's sig he's got a great FAQ going with that info.
The dual exhaust will rob you of a bit of low end power, though there are other mods that might regain it for you.
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Genthar
Rhino Lining, Waag one piece grille guard and wheel to wheel nerf bars, 3M Xpel on headlights, front corner lights, and foglights, Valentine One radar detector, XM Satellite radio, Navigon 7100 GPS, Lightforce 240 Blitz aux lights, Aux. reverse lights.
AEM Brute force intake, courtesy of AEM Power and TundraSolutions.com
Teamwest Coilovers, Camburg Upper A arms, Daystar Steering Rack Bushings, Total Chaos Diff Drop spacer, JBA Headers, Y-Pipe, and EVOL exhaust.
R.C.D. has a 6" suspension lift coming out very soon. You might want to hold out for that one. With aftermarket coil over shocks you might be able to get another 2" or so, to bring you up to 8" in the front. You would have to add some height to the back or go prerunner style.
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"You play the hand you're dealt. I think the game's worthwhile." -C. S. Lewis
Most lift kits are actually front suspension drop kits which get the fenders farther off the ground, however still keep the front diff at the same height not creating any more ground clearance than before the expensive venture.
The lift limit for the tundra is somewhere just above 2.5". Past that point the upper ball joint will contact its own race and begin to hammer itself out. You will notice a klunk when cycling the suspension on things like speed bumps. To go above 2.5" you will need a quality shock, SAW, King, Donohue, or Bilstien and the total chaos or possibly Camburg upper control arm. At this point you will also need to install front differential drop spacers and either spring for manual hubs ($1000) or get good boots and be prepared to inspect and possibly change them often.
Lifting beyond 3" you will need a longer coilover or something custom. When you hit around 4" the steering rack will be near it's limit with respect to tie rod angles. You will have to lower the rack or do something custom with the tie rods (I flipped mine with heim joints) Doing this will introduce some mild bump steer, but it does work. The next bind point is the upper control arm uniball. You can cut those expensive control arms and reposition the uniball or install a short machined spacer. You have to be very careful here because the alignment adjustments are at the factory limits. Still not scared? Consider joining the Army Rangers for a three year tour in Tekrit. Next you have to modify the lower cam adjustment points outward or learn to live with a bunch of (really bad) positive camber.
I know all this because I have done it, and in retrospect, would conclude, either keep it low and simple and buy a used land cruiser, or go straight to a custom straight axle, which, oddly enough, is the next big mod for my truck. The stock suspension does a pretty good job on road, and that is where the majority of these trucks live anyway.
__________________ 2001 Factory I. S., TRD supercharger, Downey headers, K&N FIPK w/ ram air, Flowmaster muffler, home built dual exhaust exiting through cutout in side of bed, 5-link SAS w/ King 12" coilovers and Rubicon Express flex joints, Alcan 7-leaf rear springs, home made shackle flip, U-bolt flip kit, homemade traction bar, Bilstien 5150 14" travel rear shocks on O.R.S. mounts, rebuilt IFS steering box with 1.5" ram, braided lines, 4.88 gears w/ front and rear ARBs, Eagle Racing 15X10 589's, 37" XT's, ARB front bumper, T-Max 9500, Synthetic winch rope, spray-in bed liner, Rhino coated homemade roof rack, rock sliders, and rear bumper/slider, roof, and lower side body Rino liner coated, 4 Pro-Comp lights 130 watt driving lights, 2: roof rack, 2: bumper mounted
Whats the intended use of your Tundra once you modify it?
I dont see anything wrong with installing a bolt in coilover from King or DRE up front for 2-2.5" lift(depending on 2wd or 4wd) followed by an alignment. I think some bolt in Bilstiens in the rear would compliment it nicely. Your choice of rims and tires should be made according to what your gonna use it for. If your towing a lot of weight, I would(and have) stick close to the stock tire size unless your gonna regear. Even still a much higher center of gravity should have sway controll for a heavy trailer.
As far as exhaust....if you have a V8 run 3" piping from the Y back with your choice of muffler and a mandrel bent tailpipe.
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Mods: Donahoe TCF coilovers, TC upper arms, rear Bilstein 5100s, Downey headers, 3" exhaust with Spintech Prostreet, BFG MT 285-70-17s on Helo Maxx 6 Chrome, Electric Brake controller. Tsunami RCA converter, PIE AUX adapter, LA Sound amp, MTX 10" band pass sub.
PLEASE info on a lift!!!!!
2001 Factory I. S., TRD supercharger, Downey headers, K&N FIPK w/ ram air, Flowmaster muffler, home built dual exhaust exiting through cutout in side of bed, 5-link SAS w/ King 12" coilovers and Rubicon Express flex joints, Alcan 7-leaf rear springs, home made shackle flip, U-bolt flip kit, homemade traction bar, Bilstien 5150 14" travel rear shocks on O.R.S. mounts, rebuilt IFS steering box with 1.5" ram, braided lines, 4.88 gears w/ front and rear ARBs, Eagle Racing 15X10 589's, 37" XT's, ARB front bumper, T-Max 9500, Synthetic winch rope, spray-in bed liner, Rhino coated homemade roof rack, rock sliders, and rear bumper/slider, roof, and lower side body Rino liner coated, 4 Pro-Comp lights 130 watt driving lights, 2: roof rack, 2: bumper mounted
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