I have a 00 tundra reg. cab pre-runner style with fiberglass hood,bedsides,fenders. supercharger. ect... 35'' tires and it sits lower than stock. I like that look. but I need It LOWER! Why doesent anybody sell Drop Spindles. Keeps travel centered and keeps everything stright.
im planing on lowering my truck but was wondering about the driveshaft and the degree change it will go through and the length have any of u had any problems with this and also the cheapest way to drop my truck the sos kit is a little pricey(2front 4 rear) almost 400 bucks any help would be appreciated thanx
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ENGINE MODS: k&n fipk II, motorvation throttlebody spacer, kamealion colored throttle body cover, ss autochrome headers, ss autochrome y-pipe, flowmaster 40series muffler with chrome tip. stealth mode a 950cca dry cell battery, TRD limited slip diff.
EXTERIOR: TRD third brake cover,Towing harness, Powerpulse wig wag headlight flasher, sylvania headlight bulbs, tranparent TRD headlight emblems, Toyota symbol tribal on windshield, clear corners with blue lights and blue strobe lights, billet grille with blue strobe lights behind it, and finally more strobe lights in the reverse light.
INTERIOR: Clarion 7" touchscreen dvd player with two 12" 800watt audiobaun subs, powered by a jensen 400watt amp. bigger amp is on the way , two gauge pods mounted on the a pillar with a carbon fiber air/fuel ratio gauge in one and a carbon fiber 30invac/20psi boost gauge in the other and color matched.
I'm interested as of what bits and pieces you've put together for the rear flips.
I finally found my list for the $57.00 Shipped rear flip (6" lowering):
2" Flip Kit from Summit Racing - SUM-G906020 - $22.00
Spring Perches from Summit - DCC-4120074 - $13.00
2.5* Shims from Summit - RAN-RS8125 - $13.00
Shipping/Handling Fee from Summit - $9.00
For the front I am having a harder time tryin to figure out how to get it aligned. Lowering it is easy with either the 3" 150.00 springs from coilsprings.com or the 0-3" 300.00 coilovers from AIM Industries.
__________________ 2001 Salvaged Tundra SR5 2WD Access Cab:
95% complete - Molly Grill, Color Matched Mirror Covers, Clear Turn Signal Lenses, Optima Red Top Battery,
XS Power headers, Phillips Crystal Vision Bulbs, Detata Trax 18x9 wheels w/245-55-18 BFG GForce T/A's
Waiting to Install: Components for 3-4" front, 5-6" rear DIY lowering. (waiting on front struts)
I finally found my list for the $57.00 Shipped rear flip (6" lowering):
2" Flip Kit from Summit Racing - SUM-G906020 - $22.00
Spring Perches from Summit - DCC-4120074 - $13.00
2.5* Shims from Summit - RAN-RS8125 - $13.00
Shipping/Handling Fee from Summit - $9.00
For the front I am having a harder time tryin to figure out how to get it aligned. Lowering it is easy with either the 3" 150.00 springs from coilsprings.com or the 0-3" 300.00 coilovers from AIM Industries.
How was it to install. Did you fab up a mounting plate for the u-bolts to bolt up to?
OK i have no clue how serious all you are but here are some options.
A) have a custom spindle fabbed to lower it and use the 2" lowering spring and it would be grounded. Off road shops fab lift spindles all the time. This would eliminate the alignment issue and keep a nicer ride because you would not be sitting on the stops. Just add a uniball to the lower arm and a spacer between the arm and the heim with a large thru bolt. then flip the upper ball joint. Like TC lift spindle for 84-94 pickups but in reverse.
B) lower it the way you are talking about and just have a upper A-Arm fabbed that is a little longer then stock to put alignment back. Like total chaos but for lowering.
C) Body Drop
D) Best bet is to just have new upper, lower and spindle made. This would be best eliminating all ball joints with uniballs and allowing the ride to be mid travel and keep a nice stock ride. Bascially a offroad set up but lower instead of higher. If there are enough of you a shop may do it cheaper.
I am fighting back the body shop guys who want to chop my D-Cab up on bags and a body drop. They all have had many trucks in mags and are pros.
As of now we are working on bagging my 56 merc and I plan to build some lowering spindles for that to get it it down but keep a nice ride.
__________________ '05 Tundra DC TRD 2 WHL: The TOW truck, Spectra Mica Blue, with Kenwood H/U, Kenwood Amp and crossover. Infinity 6010cs, 10" Rockford SUB, 6 disc CD Changer mounted in Center console, SWI-X to retain steering wheel controls, 7" TV with DVD. Tinted Windows, Three chamber Flowmaster, Painted front chrome strip
1994 Toy: The TOY Standard cab, Long travel front pulling13" w/Double fox w/Res, Deaver rear at 18" w/Single 2.5 18" fox w/Res., full glass, Bumper to Bumper cage, Gusseted frame, PRP seats, Crow harnesses, Custom steering(All Heims & Chromoly), Grant steering wheel, Smoothest ride around. OH by the way only 70,000 miles.
How was it to install. Did you fab up a mounting plate for the u-bolts to bolt up to?
Havent done it yet. Dont want to lower the rear 6" and have the front stock! Have to figure out the best way to do the front first. EDIT: You can use the stock mounting plate, or fabbing one would not be that hard at all.
__________________ 2001 Salvaged Tundra SR5 2WD Access Cab:
95% complete - Molly Grill, Color Matched Mirror Covers, Clear Turn Signal Lenses, Optima Red Top Battery,
XS Power headers, Phillips Crystal Vision Bulbs, Detata Trax 18x9 wheels w/245-55-18 BFG GForce T/A's
Waiting to Install: Components for 3-4" front, 5-6" rear DIY lowering. (waiting on front struts)
A) have a custom spindle fabbed to lower it and use the 2" lowering spring and it would be grounded. Off road shops fab lift spindles all the time. This would eliminate the alignment issue and keep a nicer ride because you would not be sitting on the stops. Just add a uniball to the lower arm and a spacer between the arm and the heim with a large thru bolt. then flip the upper ball joint. Like TC lift spindle for 84-94 pickups but in reverse.
I see what you are saying about the spacer between the spindle and lower control arm to give more clearance. Look at this pic and tell me if u think I am on the right track here:
Doing this will give me approximately 3" of drop or so, and in therory be align-able back to stock with OEM ride quality. Then I could get some drop springs to get me another inch or so. The only concerns i would have with this are:
1.) the spindle WILL hit the upper arm at full turn, killing my turning radius. If you look at that pic again, you will see that the spindle is well under and into the upper control arm. This is the deal breaker, everything else makes perfect sense. I am not sure how to overcome this issue
3.) how would the ball joint bolt back up with a spacer in there? Would I have to get that uniball thing (dunno what it is) and then it would be long enough for a spacer?
__________________ 2001 Salvaged Tundra SR5 2WD Access Cab:
95% complete - Molly Grill, Color Matched Mirror Covers, Clear Turn Signal Lenses, Optima Red Top Battery,
XS Power headers, Phillips Crystal Vision Bulbs, Detata Trax 18x9 wheels w/245-55-18 BFG GForce T/A's
Waiting to Install: Components for 3-4" front, 5-6" rear DIY lowering. (waiting on front struts)
i just tracked down quicktoy and gave him a link here, hopefully he will chime in and post some pix of the suspension setup he has, and had before it was juiced?
__________________ 2001 Salvaged Tundra SR5 2WD Access Cab:
95% complete - Molly Grill, Color Matched Mirror Covers, Clear Turn Signal Lenses, Optima Red Top Battery,
XS Power headers, Phillips Crystal Vision Bulbs, Detata Trax 18x9 wheels w/245-55-18 BFG GForce T/A's
Waiting to Install: Components for 3-4" front, 5-6" rear DIY lowering. (waiting on front struts)
WOW, havent been here in awhile..had to buy a membership just to post LOL.
Allright when I originally bagged the tundra. the highest it went was around stock height, lowest was touching the tires on a set of 255/35/20 rubber.
To do the front, the springs were yanked, and plates were made atop the lower control arm for the lower bag mount and plates were welded to the frame for the upper bag mount.
for the rear, we simply made a flip kit, yanked 2 springs on each side, made a bag mount to the springs and voila. not much to buy, just manual labor. the truck as it site now has all toyota parts under it, but most are not tundra. basically everything under the cab is all new and fabricated.