used to have the stock spindles when it was just bagged. sorry dont have any pics..got the old lower control arms though with the bag mounts on em LOL
Do u have a pic of those? Or even the current front setup u have now? How did u keep the bumpstops from smashing into the frame? There is only like 2" of clearance there.
__________________ 2001 Salvaged Tundra SR5 2WD Access Cab:
95% complete - Molly Grill, Color Matched Mirror Covers, Clear Turn Signal Lenses, Optima Red Top Battery,
XS Power headers, Phillips Crystal Vision Bulbs, Detata Trax 18x9 wheels w/245-55-18 BFG GForce T/A's
Waiting to Install: Components for 3-4" front, 5-6" rear DIY lowering. (waiting on front struts)
Do u have a pic of those? Or even the current front setup u have now? How did u keep the bumpstops from smashing into the frame? There is only like 2" of clearance there.
NO, it was not notched when it was just bagged.
no pics sorry, new front end is a whole nother front end from a totally different truck. different spindles, custom tube control arms, etc...
I see what you are saying about the spacer between the spindle and lower control arm to give more clearance. Look at this pic and tell me if u think I am on the right track here:
1.) the spindle WILL hit the upper arm at full turn, killing my turning radius. If you look at that pic again, you will see that the spindle is well under and into the upper control arm. This is the deal breaker, everything else makes perfect sense. I am not sure how to overcome this issue
3.) how would the ball joint bolt back up with a spacer in there? Would I have to get that uniball thing (dunno what it is) and then it would be long enough for a spacer?
I see what you are saying. By the looks the spindle would hit. It would be a whole lot easier putting in a uniball then spacing the ball joint.
A uniball is what the upper A-Arms use instead of a ball joint on Camburg and Total Chaos. It allows you to use a thru bolt instead of the ball joint. But maybe a uniball upper would allow enough room for the spindle to turn. Instead of a lift upper try the ATS(Inland Trucks) A-arm that is a stock one with a uniball. I believe aftermarket uppers are alot thinner and smaller maybe allowing the spindle to clear.
Will some one with TC or Camburg uppers take a pic of full turn like the one previous so we can see????
__________________ '05 Tundra DC TRD 2 WHL: The TOW truck, Spectra Mica Blue, with Kenwood H/U, Kenwood Amp and crossover. Infinity 6010cs, 10" Rockford SUB, 6 disc CD Changer mounted in Center console, SWI-X to retain steering wheel controls, 7" TV with DVD. Tinted Windows, Three chamber Flowmaster, Painted front chrome strip
1994 Toy: The TOY Standard cab, Long travel front pulling13" w/Double fox w/Res, Deaver rear at 18" w/Single 2.5 18" fox w/Res., full glass, Bumper to Bumper cage, Gusseted frame, PRP seats, Crow harnesses, Custom steering(All Heims & Chromoly), Grant steering wheel, Smoothest ride around. OH by the way only 70,000 miles.
I finally found my list for the $57.00 Shipped rear flip (6" lowering):
2" Flip Kit from Summit Racing - SUM-G906020 - $22.00
Spring Perches from Summit - DCC-4120074 - $13.00
2.5* Shims from Summit - RAN-RS8125 - $13.00
Shipping/Handling Fee from Summit - $9.00
For the front I am having a harder time tryin to figure out how to get it aligned. Lowering it is easy with either the 3" 150.00 springs from coilsprings.com or the 0-3" 300.00 coilovers from AIM Industries.
If I wanted a 4" drop in the back instead of 6", what parts would I need and how easy would it be to do it?
If I can lower the back for $50 or so, then I wouldnt mind paying $150-$200 for the front.
I see what you are saying. By the looks the spindle would hit. It would be a whole lot easier putting in a uniball then spacing the ball joint.
How would i space the lower balljoint? The ball joint isnt long enough to put the nut on after a spacer gets put in there. Are there aftermarket ball joints with longer bolts?
__________________ 2001 Salvaged Tundra SR5 2WD Access Cab:
95% complete - Molly Grill, Color Matched Mirror Covers, Clear Turn Signal Lenses, Optima Red Top Battery,
XS Power headers, Phillips Crystal Vision Bulbs, Detata Trax 18x9 wheels w/245-55-18 BFG GForce T/A's
Waiting to Install: Components for 3-4" front, 5-6" rear DIY lowering. (waiting on front struts)
If I wanted a 4" drop in the back instead of 6", what parts would I need and how easy would it be to do it?
If you only wanted a 4" drop, u would use the same parts, but minus the 2" blocks, id have to measure again, but you may need a 1" block in there instead.
__________________ 2001 Salvaged Tundra SR5 2WD Access Cab:
95% complete - Molly Grill, Color Matched Mirror Covers, Clear Turn Signal Lenses, Optima Red Top Battery,
XS Power headers, Phillips Crystal Vision Bulbs, Detata Trax 18x9 wheels w/245-55-18 BFG GForce T/A's
Waiting to Install: Components for 3-4" front, 5-6" rear DIY lowering. (waiting on front struts)
Sorry to say there is no way to space the lower ball jointunless you come up with one I do not know of. This is why I suggested the Uniball. it can be spaced out and you would use a longer bolt.
I lied I just thought of this -->Just throwing ideas out but on my old truck we put a spacer between the 4 bolts that held the ball joint plate on to the upper arm. if you did the same to the lower (Put a spacer between the 4 bolts on the bottom) that would lower it as well. I am not sure of safety but I know we could only put a 1 inch spacer in with longer bolts. worth a look???
But I think the only way to get it correct is to have a upper arm made with different ball joint or uniball angle to allow for lowering.
__________________ '05 Tundra DC TRD 2 WHL: The TOW truck, Spectra Mica Blue, with Kenwood H/U, Kenwood Amp and crossover. Infinity 6010cs, 10" Rockford SUB, 6 disc CD Changer mounted in Center console, SWI-X to retain steering wheel controls, 7" TV with DVD. Tinted Windows, Three chamber Flowmaster, Painted front chrome strip
1994 Toy: The TOY Standard cab, Long travel front pulling13" w/Double fox w/Res, Deaver rear at 18" w/Single 2.5 18" fox w/Res., full glass, Bumper to Bumper cage, Gusseted frame, PRP seats, Crow harnesses, Custom steering(All Heims & Chromoly), Grant steering wheel, Smoothest ride around. OH by the way only 70,000 miles.
The prototype TRD lowering kit for the tundra's used a spacer between the lower balljoint and lower control arm. You pretty much have to do that to get enough travel since the bump stops are so close. I was thinking I would drill out the riveted connection as shown in this pic, and flip the bracket. That would raise it slightly giving more clearance. Then just make brackets for the 0-3" coilovers. Total drop would be from 1-2" upto 4-5"!
For the upper, I am in the middle of working with a company to make upper control arms with 6 degrees of adjustment. With that much adjustment, u could really slam the truck and still get it aligned correctly. They are ready to do it, all I have to do is get my control arms to them, and a total of 4 more orders in addition to mine and it is a go. The control arms would be 300 bucks for the pair. Problem is that I do not know how many are serious enough to go for it.
__________________ 2001 Salvaged Tundra SR5 2WD Access Cab:
95% complete - Molly Grill, Color Matched Mirror Covers, Clear Turn Signal Lenses, Optima Red Top Battery,
XS Power headers, Phillips Crystal Vision Bulbs, Detata Trax 18x9 wheels w/245-55-18 BFG GForce T/A's
Waiting to Install: Components for 3-4" front, 5-6" rear DIY lowering. (waiting on front struts)
But if you put in the spacer and the lowering springs you should get a nice drop. If you drilled the rivets you could not put the bracket in up side down because it is a tapered drilled hole. and you could not put it on top of the arm because I do not think that wopuld be strong enough. Or could you Bolt it back on top. Not sure about the strength there.
__________________ '05 Tundra DC TRD 2 WHL: The TOW truck, Spectra Mica Blue, with Kenwood H/U, Kenwood Amp and crossover. Infinity 6010cs, 10" Rockford SUB, 6 disc CD Changer mounted in Center console, SWI-X to retain steering wheel controls, 7" TV with DVD. Tinted Windows, Three chamber Flowmaster, Painted front chrome strip
1994 Toy: The TOY Standard cab, Long travel front pulling13" w/Double fox w/Res, Deaver rear at 18" w/Single 2.5 18" fox w/Res., full glass, Bumper to Bumper cage, Gusseted frame, PRP seats, Crow harnesses, Custom steering(All Heims & Chromoly), Grant steering wheel, Smoothest ride around. OH by the way only 70,000 miles.
oh yeah... DUH... i didnt even think of that. I wonder how in the hell the prototype kit worked with a spacer in there??? I wish bily or native was still around to let me know
__________________ 2001 Salvaged Tundra SR5 2WD Access Cab:
95% complete - Molly Grill, Color Matched Mirror Covers, Clear Turn Signal Lenses, Optima Red Top Battery,
XS Power headers, Phillips Crystal Vision Bulbs, Detata Trax 18x9 wheels w/245-55-18 BFG GForce T/A's
Waiting to Install: Components for 3-4" front, 5-6" rear DIY lowering. (waiting on front struts)
You could drill the rivets and just put on top of the arm with GRADE 8 or F911 bolts and a spacer between the arm so as not to squish it you may be able to do it.
I would do this with a second set of arms so as not to screw up yours.
__________________ '05 Tundra DC TRD 2 WHL: The TOW truck, Spectra Mica Blue, with Kenwood H/U, Kenwood Amp and crossover. Infinity 6010cs, 10" Rockford SUB, 6 disc CD Changer mounted in Center console, SWI-X to retain steering wheel controls, 7" TV with DVD. Tinted Windows, Three chamber Flowmaster, Painted front chrome strip
1994 Toy: The TOY Standard cab, Long travel front pulling13" w/Double fox w/Res, Deaver rear at 18" w/Single 2.5 18" fox w/Res., full glass, Bumper to Bumper cage, Gusseted frame, PRP seats, Crow harnesses, Custom steering(All Heims & Chromoly), Grant steering wheel, Smoothest ride around. OH by the way only 70,000 miles.
'05 Tundra DC TRD 2 WHL: The TOW truck, Spectra Mica Blue, with Kenwood H/U, Kenwood Amp and crossover. Infinity 6010cs, 10" Rockford SUB, 6 disc CD Changer mounted in Center console, SWI-X to retain steering wheel controls, 7" TV with DVD. Tinted Windows, Three chamber Flowmaster, Painted front chrome strip 
1994 Toy: 
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