They must be putting it between the 4 bolts on the spindle like I said before. This would work and easy to make. get a 1 inch piece of solid metal and drill the 4 holes in the correct spot. Get longer Grade 8 or F911 bolts and put it in. I made a 1.5 inch one for my wifes old truck but to lift it.
I will check back tomorrow I got a doctors appointment to go to
__________________ '05 Tundra DC TRD 2 WHL: The TOW truck, Spectra Mica Blue, with Kenwood H/U, Kenwood Amp and crossover. Infinity 6010cs, 10" Rockford SUB, 6 disc CD Changer mounted in Center console, SWI-X to retain steering wheel controls, 7" TV with DVD. Tinted Windows, Three chamber Flowmaster, Painted front chrome strip
1994 Toy: The TOY Standard cab, Long travel front pulling13" w/Double fox w/Res, Deaver rear at 18" w/Single 2.5 18" fox w/Res., full glass, Bumper to Bumper cage, Gusseted frame, PRP seats, Crow harnesses, Custom steering(All Heims & Chromoly), Grant steering wheel, Smoothest ride around. OH by the way only 70,000 miles.
Yeah, now I seee what u are sayin. I didnt quite get it before. That would be a very easy way to space that would be an easy way to space that out. Then just fab a bracket to space up the shock (or in this case the coilover) the same height and I am good to go. Throw on the new upper control arms and it would align perfectly!
__________________ 2001 Salvaged Tundra SR5 2WD Access Cab:
95% complete - Molly Grill, Color Matched Mirror Covers, Clear Turn Signal Lenses, Optima Red Top Battery,
XS Power headers, Phillips Crystal Vision Bulbs, Detata Trax 18x9 wheels w/245-55-18 BFG GForce T/A's
Waiting to Install: Components for 3-4" front, 5-6" rear DIY lowering. (waiting on front struts)
If you only wanted a 4" drop, u would use the same parts, but minus the 2" blocks, id have to measure again, but you may need a 1" block in there instead.
Could you verify what Id need for a 4" rear drop and a 2" front drop? Id like to get some things ordered this week.
Also would I need new shocks as recommended by SOS when doing a 2/4 drop, or is that only if you use their kit?
Whats the consenus on the best way to drop the front 2" and the back 4". Your way seems the cheapest so Im very interested.
I know you will think I am crazy but I was looking at the total chaos lift arms and I believe if you turn them over and put them on the opposite side it would be a lowering arm. I know, I know you think I am crazy. But think about it. If you just flip the arm it would not be correct, but if you put it on the opposite side I believe all would be good. and I think they adjust the uniball on the end to allow more drop out and still keep alignment. if you put it on to lower it would possibly make it alignable again.
I do not think if you did all this you would need a bracket for the coilover. if you leave it in the stock spot that would allow the lower stance with good travel. What kind of bracket are you speaking of??
__________________ '05 Tundra DC TRD 2 WHL: The TOW truck, Spectra Mica Blue, with Kenwood H/U, Kenwood Amp and crossover. Infinity 6010cs, 10" Rockford SUB, 6 disc CD Changer mounted in Center console, SWI-X to retain steering wheel controls, 7" TV with DVD. Tinted Windows, Three chamber Flowmaster, Painted front chrome strip
1994 Toy: The TOY Standard cab, Long travel front pulling13" w/Double fox w/Res, Deaver rear at 18" w/Single 2.5 18" fox w/Res., full glass, Bumper to Bumper cage, Gusseted frame, PRP seats, Crow harnesses, Custom steering(All Heims & Chromoly), Grant steering wheel, Smoothest ride around. OH by the way only 70,000 miles.
I know you will think I am crazy but I was looking at the total chaos lift arms and I believe if you turn them over and put them on the opposite side it would be a lowering arm. I know, I know you think I am crazy. But think about it. If you just flip the arm it would not be correct, but if you put it on the opposite side I believe all would be good. and I think they adjust the uniball on the end to allow more drop out and still keep alignment. if you put it on to lower it would possibly make it alignable again.
I dont think u are crazy at all. That kinda makes sense. However, If I were to flip over the arms, and swap sides, then the uniball thing would be upside down. Is there a way to flip the uniball back? It doesnt look like it:
Quote:
Originally Posted by dsrtrcr01
I do not think if you did all this you would need a bracket for the coilover. if you leave it in the stock spot that would allow the lower stance with good travel. What kind of bracket are you speaking of??
You are prolly right... I was just thinking I need to get more travel/clearance between the lower control arm and the bumpstops. Putting that 2" spacer in there with the 4 bolts raises the spindle and drops the truck. If the shock was still hooked up in teh factory location, I was thinking that the shock and the spacer be working against each other. The bracket for the shock would allow the lower control arm to actually drop that 2" but then I woudl loose that 2" of drop. I dunno, my brain is mush from trying to imagine how all this looks and would work. I need to actually see it instead of trying to imagine it.
EDIT: HOLY CRAP. Those things are expensive!!!! 600 bucks for upper A-arms!!! Its cheaper to get the 300 ones with that conpany I am working with.
__________________ 2001 Salvaged Tundra SR5 2WD Access Cab:
95% complete - Molly Grill, Color Matched Mirror Covers, Clear Turn Signal Lenses, Optima Red Top Battery,
XS Power headers, Phillips Crystal Vision Bulbs, Detata Trax 18x9 wheels w/245-55-18 BFG GForce T/A's
Waiting to Install: Components for 3-4" front, 5-6" rear DIY lowering. (waiting on front struts)
Whats the consenus on the best way to drop the front 2" and the back 4". Your way seems the cheapest so Im very interested.
If you are just looking for a 2/4 drop, I would get the SOS kit. Its been proven to work, comes with instructions, and SOS stands behind thier products.
__________________ 2001 Salvaged Tundra SR5 2WD Access Cab:
95% complete - Molly Grill, Color Matched Mirror Covers, Clear Turn Signal Lenses, Optima Red Top Battery,
XS Power headers, Phillips Crystal Vision Bulbs, Detata Trax 18x9 wheels w/245-55-18 BFG GForce T/A's
Waiting to Install: Components for 3-4" front, 5-6" rear DIY lowering. (waiting on front struts)
You could probably find used somewhere. The uniball is identical top and bottom so no need to flip. It is just a ball with a hole in it and some "Bungs" that push into the holes. If you spaced the spindle up to lower the truck the lower A-Arm would be closer to the ground but remain the same distance between the shock mount so you would not need to move the shock. you are spacing the spindle up not the A-arm down so leave the shock mount alone.
So a 1 or 1.5 spacer between the ball joint and the spindle would drop it like a1-1.5 inches. this would not limit travel because the lower a-arm does not move. then if you put on the lowering springs you would get an additional 3 (Right) so that would equal 4-4.5 inch drop but you probably would have alignment issues. Introduce the upper a-arms TC or yours being made and you got your 5 inch drop with an additional .5 inches coming from the sidewall on the lower profile tire you will run. What do you think?
__________________ '05 Tundra DC TRD 2 WHL: The TOW truck, Spectra Mica Blue, with Kenwood H/U, Kenwood Amp and crossover. Infinity 6010cs, 10" Rockford SUB, 6 disc CD Changer mounted in Center console, SWI-X to retain steering wheel controls, 7" TV with DVD. Tinted Windows, Three chamber Flowmaster, Painted front chrome strip
1994 Toy: The TOY Standard cab, Long travel front pulling13" w/Double fox w/Res, Deaver rear at 18" w/Single 2.5 18" fox w/Res., full glass, Bumper to Bumper cage, Gusseted frame, PRP seats, Crow harnesses, Custom steering(All Heims & Chromoly), Grant steering wheel, Smoothest ride around. OH by the way only 70,000 miles.
But how much will those 300 dollar ones cost if you do not find the 6 people i think you said you needed to buy as well?
__________________ '05 Tundra DC TRD 2 WHL: The TOW truck, Spectra Mica Blue, with Kenwood H/U, Kenwood Amp and crossover. Infinity 6010cs, 10" Rockford SUB, 6 disc CD Changer mounted in Center console, SWI-X to retain steering wheel controls, 7" TV with DVD. Tinted Windows, Three chamber Flowmaster, Painted front chrome strip
1994 Toy: The TOY Standard cab, Long travel front pulling13" w/Double fox w/Res, Deaver rear at 18" w/Single 2.5 18" fox w/Res., full glass, Bumper to Bumper cage, Gusseted frame, PRP seats, Crow harnesses, Custom steering(All Heims & Chromoly), Grant steering wheel, Smoothest ride around. OH by the way only 70,000 miles.
If you are just looking for a 2/4 drop, I would get the SOS kit. Its been proven to work, comes with instructions, and SOS stands behind thier products.
Yes but youre talking about $500 for the kit and thats w/o shocks which they say are required, so now we are looking at $800+
If I can drop the back for around $50 using summit racing parts (please tell me which ones to get), and then coilovers in the front for $150 or so.. then thats a LOT cheaper.
__________________ '05 Tundra DC TRD 2 WHL: The TOW truck, Spectra Mica Blue, with Kenwood H/U, Kenwood Amp and crossover. Infinity 6010cs, 10" Rockford SUB, 6 disc CD Changer mounted in Center console, SWI-X to retain steering wheel controls, 7" TV with DVD. Tinted Windows, Three chamber Flowmaster, Painted front chrome strip
1994 Toy: The TOY Standard cab, Long travel front pulling13" w/Double fox w/Res, Deaver rear at 18" w/Single 2.5 18" fox w/Res., full glass, Bumper to Bumper cage, Gusseted frame, PRP seats, Crow harnesses, Custom steering(All Heims & Chromoly), Grant steering wheel, Smoothest ride around. OH by the way only 70,000 miles.
To me it looks as if you would need a axle flip kit, and u bolts and a lowering block. I think just flipping the axle will give you about 4 inches of drop with a stock ride.
__________________ '05 Tundra DC TRD 2 WHL: The TOW truck, Spectra Mica Blue, with Kenwood H/U, Kenwood Amp and crossover. Infinity 6010cs, 10" Rockford SUB, 6 disc CD Changer mounted in Center console, SWI-X to retain steering wheel controls, 7" TV with DVD. Tinted Windows, Three chamber Flowmaster, Painted front chrome strip
1994 Toy: The TOY Standard cab, Long travel front pulling13" w/Double fox w/Res, Deaver rear at 18" w/Single 2.5 18" fox w/Res., full glass, Bumper to Bumper cage, Gusseted frame, PRP seats, Crow harnesses, Custom steering(All Heims & Chromoly), Grant steering wheel, Smoothest ride around. OH by the way only 70,000 miles.
When I first started I was shooting for a 4/6 drop. A 2/4 drop just wasn’t enough for me. 2/4 drops look like the 2wd tundra should have from the factory. The more I researched and measured, I realized a couple of things. The first being that I really want more of a drop than 4/6. The second being that when these things are lowered and leveled (2" more drop in rear than front) they look kinda silly IMHO. The body lines are designed with a 2" rake in mind. Take a look at aznboitruck0n22's 5/7 drop.
The rear looks too low compared to the front. I decided I would like to keep a lil bit of the factory rake. I want my truck to look aggressive and sporty, not lowrider slammed. Going more along the lines of a 5/6 drop I think is more along the lines I want to go. That is where the advantage of the coilovers comes in. The rear will basically be a fixed drop, but I can raise or lower the front to retain at least a little bit of the OEM rake. Who knows where I will end up after everything is on and adjusted. In summary for anyone following who doesn’t want to read all the back-and-forth we have been doing:
FRONT LOWERING: 3-5" Total Suspension Drop
First I would start by putting a 2" spacer between the ball joint connection and spindle. This would give me 2" of drop. Then by using the adjustable coilover, I would have 1-3" more, for a total of 3-5" of total suspension drop. However, my alignment would be shot all to hell until I put on those upper control arms with up to 6* of adjustment. Factor in that my tires are 1" shorter than stock, and I have my truck a total of 3.5-5.5" closer to the ground. Here is the list of parts:
REAR LOWERING: 6-6.5" Total Suspension Drop
First start by putting on the 3" flip kit from Summit, which relocates the leafs to under the axle, giving me approximately 3.25" of drop (the axle is approx 3.25"). Using the 3" aluminum block that is included in the kit and is placed between the axle and the leafs gives me a total of approximately 6.25" of total drop. Now once u add the 2.5* shim for better driveshaft alignment and the weld-on spring perch, I may end up with another .25" or so of further drop. It all depends on how tall the weld-on perch is compared to OEM. I would then add adjustable air shocks so I can adjust the ride height when the 4 wheeler that I sometimes lug around is in the back.
So for a grand total of 730 bucks or so depending on other misc items, I would have my 5/6 drop. Factor in a 4 wheel alignment at around $75.00 or so and that’s not too bad considering it is done right. Every other suspension dropped tundra that has tried to get more than a 3/5 is outta alignment. Even TRD gave up with their kit cause there was too many alignment issues. Both Billy and Native removed their TRD kits because of it. Now the only issues are coming up with the money and time. I have my first child due anyday now (due date is a week from today, so money and time are tight enough right now, and are not going to get any better with the birth of our daughter! Thanks again to everyone who chimed in, especially MicroDot & Native for insight into thier kits, dsrtrcr01 for playing idea tag with me, and toyotaman_4ever for finding those coilovers from AIM! I am going to update the first post with a lot more information now!
__________________ 2001 Salvaged Tundra SR5 2WD Access Cab:
95% complete - Molly Grill, Color Matched Mirror Covers, Clear Turn Signal Lenses, Optima Red Top Battery,
XS Power headers, Phillips Crystal Vision Bulbs, Detata Trax 18x9 wheels w/245-55-18 BFG GForce T/A's
Waiting to Install: Components for 3-4" front, 5-6" rear DIY lowering. (waiting on front struts)
Yes but youre talking about $500 for the kit and thats w/o shocks which they say are required, so now we are looking at $800+
If I can drop the back for around $50 using summit racing parts (please tell me which ones to get), and then coilovers in the front for $150 or so.. then thats a LOT cheaper.
I dont know if u will want to go with the coilovers in front or not. If not coilsprings.com will sell u a new set of 2" lowered springs for 150 bucks. For the rear, u may need a shim for the driveshaft, but I doubt it for only 4". I am not sure if the SOS kit comes with them, but I dont think they do on closer inspection, so you must not need them. You may also have to fab a new bracket for the u bolts. I would assume u can use the facotry one, but since I have never removed it or tried it, u may not be able to. I dunno.
__________________ 2001 Salvaged Tundra SR5 2WD Access Cab:
95% complete - Molly Grill, Color Matched Mirror Covers, Clear Turn Signal Lenses, Optima Red Top Battery,
XS Power headers, Phillips Crystal Vision Bulbs, Detata Trax 18x9 wheels w/245-55-18 BFG GForce T/A's
Waiting to Install: Components for 3-4" front, 5-6" rear DIY lowering. (waiting on front struts)
If you add a 2 inch spacer please look that the lower arm does not lay below the rim meaning if you had a flat it would hit the ground. This could cause a accident. Also make sure you use Grade 8 or F911 bolts because these are the strongest. F911 being the best. a 2 inch spacer is HUGE so be careful and I hope it works out.
__________________ '05 Tundra DC TRD 2 WHL: The TOW truck, Spectra Mica Blue, with Kenwood H/U, Kenwood Amp and crossover. Infinity 6010cs, 10" Rockford SUB, 6 disc CD Changer mounted in Center console, SWI-X to retain steering wheel controls, 7" TV with DVD. Tinted Windows, Three chamber Flowmaster, Painted front chrome strip
1994 Toy: The TOY Standard cab, Long travel front pulling13" w/Double fox w/Res, Deaver rear at 18" w/Single 2.5 18" fox w/Res., full glass, Bumper to Bumper cage, Gusseted frame, PRP seats, Crow harnesses, Custom steering(All Heims & Chromoly), Grant steering wheel, Smoothest ride around. OH by the way only 70,000 miles.
well it wont hit the ground as it is inside the rim. However, I just realized that a 2" spacer would not clear my OEM wheels that I put on in the winter! There is over 1/2" of room with the 18's, but it would hit on the OEM 16's. I am going to have to use only a 1" spacer, there, so the most I can get is a 4" drop. Which isnt really enough for my tastes. I need to figure out how to get that extra inch!
__________________ 2001 Salvaged Tundra SR5 2WD Access Cab:
95% complete - Molly Grill, Color Matched Mirror Covers, Clear Turn Signal Lenses, Optima Red Top Battery,
XS Power headers, Phillips Crystal Vision Bulbs, Detata Trax 18x9 wheels w/245-55-18 BFG GForce T/A's
Waiting to Install: Components for 3-4" front, 5-6" rear DIY lowering. (waiting on front struts)
Prototype
'05 Tundra DC TRD 2 WHL: The TOW truck, Spectra Mica Blue, with Kenwood H/U, Kenwood Amp and crossover. Infinity 6010cs, 10" Rockford SUB, 6 disc CD Changer mounted in Center console, SWI-X to retain steering wheel controls, 7" TV with DVD. Tinted Windows, Three chamber Flowmaster, Painted front chrome strip 
1994 Toy: 
Used
Linear Mode
