Well my rotors are warped again. I just bought some slotted powerstop rotors and was wondering if I can use my stock brake pads I just had installed 10,000 miles ago or should I go ahead and got some new brakes. I want to get ceramic but would also like to get some of money out of the old/not so old pads. I was so mad after talking to my service manager about constant brake problems that I have been having since under warranty. Im now at 55000 and after leaving I went next door and had my truck appraised at carmax and almost traded for a tacoma and let carmax do the service on it. I just dont know when I will have time to go try the whole thing over at another stealership to get them to do the TSB. I will be having them check my axles as I have heard others say that was the problem causing the shimmy. I mean If my dealership we I bought it and had all the service do it says its not a safety issue and refuse to do anything on it as simple as turning the rotors (which never helped) I doubt others will. But another one may If it is under the stipulation I buy a car for my wife but that will be at least a year. For now new rotors and if they have to be turned down the road I found a place with a brand new top of the line hunter on car brake lathe. Thanks for suggestions.
If you bought new rotors go to the expense of getting new pads. I would not install the old pads unless absolutely necessary. You want new pads to seat correctly onto the new rotor. No reason to short change yourself since pads are cheap compared to the rotors.
I installed my new powerslot rotors and akebono pads this weekend and what a difference do they make. I had bad vibrations when braking from highway speeds and it gone now. Even after having new toyota rotors and pads I still had that problem as am sure many have. Installation was a breeze. Right now Im having 265/75/16 Revo's C load put on. I had 56,000 on my Michelin LTX but the previous owner didnt rotate reguraly and they were showing some dry rot. Ill update soon.
I got the Powerslot rotors from ebay for 172.99 buy it now, cheapest I found. The Akebono ceramic pads were 38.xx from www.rockauto.com. Tires from the Firestone I work next door to. Even with the "neighbor discount" I paid too much but its nice being friends with those guys cause the take care of other little things for me. tire rack is cheaper but the relationship ends there.
Everything. No I meant they were wearing wrong becaue they werent rotated as regularly. That problem was in addition to some tire rot which was caused from sitting of the car lot for 8 months. The real question is what does all that have to do with rotors and pads Yes I have a screen name for home and work. The first membership expired so I subscribed to a new screename instead of renewing with the first one. TMI I know
6 months ago, when applying the brakes, I could feel the front end vibrate mildly. Took the truck in and the turned the rotors. I also confirmed that I have the lates pads and calipers.
The vibration came back in about a month. I took it back in and this time they replaced the rotors and put new pads on. I checked to verify that.
What I need help with is that now, and still after 300 plus miles later when applying the brake it feels like a mild pump action in the brake pedal that I feel all the way through to the pads and rotors. It is almost like the brake pads grip more on 50% of the rotor than they do the other half and this repeats itself.
Could anyone explain what this may be, and if I should have any concerns. Or will this eventually go away?
I finally gave up on the last replacement factory rotors and drums and have installed a set of the frozen rotors and drums at 80K miles. Hope these last longer. Has anyone used these units for an extended mileage period to get a feel if they are true to the vendor's claims? I did find out after changing to the new rotors and drums that some of my assumed brake vibration issues were due to the driveline vibration coming in as the speed dropped into the 40 to 30 MPH range. Of coarse I always knew there was driveline vibration, even Toyota admits that but says it is normal. But the new brake parts stopped the severe vibration up in the 50 MPH range when braking from speed. I really like this truck but it is not what I would expect from Toyota's reputation for quality. This will make me less brand specific in my next purchase but I will probably get another Tundra.
as far as the driveline vibration...i am sure it's been covered before and u might know about it, but i know of some driveline vibration issues being dealt with by moving the driveshaft mount in the center of the truck...there are instructions for the DIY'r somewhere on the net if they aren't here at TS(i am sure they are here somewhere)....
Kevin
I think i will be needing to do a front brake replacement sometime in the future, i am getting the braking vibration somewhat bad now but i had it done only about 5k miles ago. The brake pads were replaced and rotors turned. I know i will be needing new rotors because when they turned them they said it was down to the minimum. What i need to know is exactly what i need to do to replace them. I have never done a brake job before and it seems simple enough to replace the pads but for the rotors i know i need to take the caliper off. Will i need to disconnect the calipers or can i just tie wire them to something, or have someone hold it? Id really like to avoid bleeding the brakes if at all possible.
Once i unbolt the caliper all i need to do is slide the rotor off the wheel hub right?
I do not want to even attempt the drum brakes so i imagine i will need to take it to someone to either adjust them or replace pads or whatnot but at least if i do the fronts myself that will save quite a bit of money.
I also have a squeak on my drivers side brakes that only makes sound on say, 1/4 of the pad's rotation and it has been like this even with new pads. Any ideas on what is causing the squeak?
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I think i will be needing to do a front brake replacement sometime in the future, i am getting the braking vibration somewhat bad now but i had it done only about 5k miles ago. The brake pads were replaced and rotors turned. I know i will be needing new rotors because when they turned them they said it was down to the minimum. What i need to know is exactly what i need to do to replace them. I have never done a brake job before and it seems simple enough to replace the pads but for the rotors i know i need to take the caliper off. Will i need to disconnect the calipers or can i just tie wire them to something, or have someone hold it? Id really like to avoid bleeding the brakes if at all possible.
Once i unbolt the caliper all i need to do is slide the rotor off the wheel hub right?
I do not want to even attempt the drum brakes so i imagine i will need to take it to someone to either adjust them or replace pads or whatnot but at least if i do the fronts myself that will save quite a bit of money.
I also have a squeak on my drivers side brakes that only makes sound on say, 1/4 of the pad's rotation and it has been like this even with new pads. Any ideas on what is causing the squeak?
Rotor replacement is probably one of the easiest DIY jobs you can do. Once you pull the wheel off, tie your brake caliper up and out of the way, taking care not to crimp or bend your solid brake line. With the caliper out of the way, pull the stock rotor off which might require a little hammering around the outside edges to loosen it up a bit. Once it's off, just slide the new rotor on. Reinstall the caliper. You might need to compress the hydraulic piston a small amount to get the caliper to fit back on the new rotor since it's a little thicker than the original. You can use a c-clamp to compress it, but you'd need to remove the pad next to the piston first so you can use one end of the c-clamp against the piston edge and the other end against the back of the caliper. Take care to compress only a small amount of you'll put too much back pressure on the lines.
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Base: 2001 Tundra - Thunder Grey | SR5 | TRD | 4x4 | HD TRD Coil Springs | Tow Pkg | Factory Spray-on Bedliner | RS3000 Security
Mods: Mickey Thompson Classic II | Bilstein 5100 Shocks | Differential Drop Spacers | 930 Inner CV Boots | ProtechEZLift Limit Straps | Spintech Sportsman XL Muffler | Brembo Front Brake Rotors | Heavy Duty OEM Rear Drums | A.R.E. Z-Series Cap w/ Thule Rack | Stubbs Rock Sliders | Hellwig Anti-Sway Bar | 285/75/16 BFG All Terrain TA KO's | VIAIR 400C Air Compressor w/ 2.5 gal tank | Front clear corner lamps | Odyssey PC1700T battery | Optima Red Top 75/35 battery (backup starter) | Hellroaring 95300A Isolator/Combiner | Truspeed Calibrator
Future: Winch Bumper | UCAs & Coilovers | RCD Lift | 4.30 Gears
Rotor Question
Yes I have a screen name for home and work. The first membership expired so I subscribed to a new screename instead of renewing with the first one. TMI I know
New Rotors for My 03. Need help
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