How to? R&R Rotors and Pads

[johnakers]

I have an 01 v8 Access Cab and just ordered PowerSlot Rotors and Hawk HPS Street Pads. I found a Howto on replacing pads but what about the rotors? Anything I should be aware of when doing this job? Is it necessary to bleed the brakes? I have d/l'd an article on "bedding-in" the brakes from Street performance so I assume that is the best method. Also, will the truck be stable enough with just the jack that came with the truck?
Thanks for any help.

John

[dyogim]

Originally Posted by johnakers

I have an 01 v8 Access Cab and just ordered PowerSlot Rotors and Hawk HPS Street Pads. I found a Howto on replacing pads but what about the rotors? Anything I should be aware of when doing this job? Is it necessary to bleed the brakes? I have d/l'd an article on "bedding-in" the brakes from Street performance so I assume that is the best method. Also, will the truck be stable enough with just the jack that came with the truck?
Thanks for any help.

John

After taking the caliper off, you should be able to just remove the rotor. Install the new one, replace the pads and install the caliper. Bleeding isn't necessary. However, if you haven't bled your brakes in a while, you might as well. I highly suggest placing a jack stand underneath the truck.

[04DSGTUNDRA]

I'm doing that exact setup right now and I cant break the caliper bolts for jack!!! I'm using a 3/4 ratchet and a 17mm socket, i've tried a cheater bar, and a hammer,and some bolt penetrator. and it won't budge. what gives? I'm turning clockwise (which losenes all other bolts)

PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!!

[mattjensen]

Originally Posted by 04DSGTUNDRA

I'm doing that exact setup right now and I cant break the caliper bolts for jack!!! I'm using a 3/4 ratchet and a 17mm socket, i've tried a cheater bar, and a hammer,and some bolt penetrator. and it won't budge. what gives? I'm turning clockwise (which losenes all other bolts)

PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!!

maybe iam just a little lost but umm turning clockwise last time i checked tightened bolts. luckey you did not brake the bolts off. hope that helps.
matt

[dyogim]

Originally Posted by mattjensen

maybe iam just a little lost but umm turning clockwise last time i checked tightened bolts. luckey you did not brake the bolts off. hope that helps.
matt

Depends on your point of view. Looking in from out, clockwise loosens. Looking from the engine pont of view clockwise tightens.

Originally Posted by 04DSGTUNDRA

I'm doing that exact setup right now and I cant break the caliper bolts for jack!!! I'm using a 3/4 ratchet and a 17mm socket, i've tried a cheater bar, and a hammer,and some bolt penetrator. and it won't budge. what gives? I'm turning clockwise (which losenes all other bolts)

PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!!

Which point of view are you at? Try soaking it with some PB Blaster(or similar) for a half hour to an hour and see if that helps.

[nucleus]

Originally Posted by johnakers

I have an 01 v8 Access Cab and just ordered PowerSlot Rotors and Hawk HPS Street Pads. I found a Howto on replacing pads but what about the rotors? Anything I should be aware of when doing this job? Is it necessary to bleed the brakes? I have d/l'd an article on "bedding-in" the brakes from Street performance so I assume that is the best method.

Looking at the head of the bolt, turn counterclockwise to remove. I don't know about the 01 Taco, but on my 98 4R the caliper is piped with metal hydraulic lines. If your is, carefully bend the line as little as possible so as not to pinch or break it. It helps to have a preformed wire ready to hang the caliper on. At this point the rotor should just slide off.

You will have to squeeze the pistons back into the calipers in order for the pads to clear the rotor, compensating for wear on the old parts. This backpressure may very well cause your master cylinder to overflow, so you might want to draw some brake fluid out of it and put a catch pan under it. Whatever you do - don't let any crap fall in there.

A c-clamp can be used to squeeze the pistons. When they are in, install the shims, pads etc. and slide the calipers over the rotors, again being careful of the brake lines. Tighten everything up with a torque wrench, including the lug nuts. Then check the fluid level in the master cylinder. As long as you haven't opened a brake line somewhere there is no need to bleed.

As for 'bedding' the brakes - car manufacturers have break-in periods where you are supposed to drive gently and avoid hard stops. It's possible to warp your rotors by overheating them (the amount of friction they generate is significant) and cooling them too fast or by holding the brakes 'on' a stopped, hot rotor (since the cooling rate under the pads is different than the cooling rate in the air). Splashing water on a hot rotor is a common cause of rotor warping. I bed new brakes the same way I break in a new car, driving moderately. It achieves the same effect with less wear and stress on the vehicle.

Read this page at tire rack (search for 'bed' on page) to see how others fared with your pads. Pay attention to how they took up to 500 miles to bed or 'brake' in.

[KLS]

NO!, the tire-changing jack is NOT SAFE for working under the truck. Jackstands are cheap...get a pair.

Fully flushing and renewing the brake fluid every two or (max) three years is very smart.
http://www.raceshopper.com/brake_fluid_faq.shtml
http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/brakefluid1a.htm


Ken