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Suspension & AxleTechnical discussions regarding alignment, stock and modified suspensions, lift kits, axles, hub conversions, gearing and steering.
This is a discussion thread titled "how easy to replace rear shocks?", within the Suspension & Axle forum, part of the Technical & Vehicle Assistance Forums category.
I just received my New Bilstein 5100 rear shocks for my Tundra and my question mainly was how easy is this too install..I have a lot of tool's but is this a hard install and what is required to install these on my Truck? For those with the Bilsteins 5100 did you notice a stiffer ride ?
thank's
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T3 Grill, Line X extra front Bumper coating (too many mod's to list)
It's very easy to replace the rear shocks, you don't have to jack up the truck or remove the rear wheels. The only hard part is the top nut is in a tight spot which is tough if you have large hands. Other than that, it's just the nut/bolt at the bottom, and a nut on the top.
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On a scale of 1 to 10, 'bout a 2. Use PB Blaster or the like to get the old nuts off. Bolt the top stem bolts first. Dont know how stiff those 5100 will be but you may have to muscle the bottom into position.
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On a scale of 1 to 10, 'bout a 2. Use PB Blaster or the like to get the old nuts off. Bolt the top stem bolts first. Dont know how stiff those 5100 will be but you may have to muscle the bottom into position.
I think this shock is a stiff one consiring the type driving I do i figured it was best to upgrade to a stiffer setup and I needed something that would last and I was told the 5100 was the best on the market from the ranchos i was looking at as well
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T3 Grill, Line X extra front Bumper coating (too many mod's to list)
On a scale of 1 to 10, 'bout a 2. Use PB Blaster or the like to get the old nuts off. Bolt the top stem bolts first. Dont know how stiff those 5100 will be but you may have to muscle the bottom into position.
I think this shock is a stiff one consiring the type driving I do i figured it was best to upgrade to a stiffer setup and I needed something that would last and I was told the 5100 was the best on the market from the ranchos i was looking at as well
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T3 Grill, Line X extra front Bumper coating (too many mod's to list)
I just put them on a couple of months ago. I used vice grips to hold the stem at the top of the stock shocks while I loosend the nut. It is a tight space. I worked facing the rear tire looking in. When I put in the new 5100's I rubed a little grease on the outside of the bottom bushings to squeeze in the bottom mount. For some reason it was a tight fit. Stick the top in first. You will need an allen wrench that fits into top stem of the 5100's to keep it from spinning while you tighten down the nut.
I also installed the Bilstein coilovers in the front at the same time. The ride on the street is still pretty smooth. It just doesn't sag down in the dips any more. The truck corners and handles better. The big bumps are no problem now. One reasons I got the Tundra was that my 97 Tacomas ride was too stiff and bumpy. The ride in the Tundra is still nice. It will be a little stiffer but not by much.
I just put them on a couple of months ago. I used vice grips to hold the stem at the top of the stock shocks while I loosend the nut. It is a tight space. I worked facing the rear tire looking in. When I put in the new 5100's I rubed a little grease on the outside of the bottom bushings to squeeze in the bottom mount. For some reason it was a tight fit. Stick the top in first. You will need an allen wrench that fits into top stem of the 5100's to keep it from spinning while you tighten down the nut.
I also installed the Bilstein coilovers in the front at the same time. The ride on the street is still pretty smooth. It just doesn't sag down in the dips any more. The truck corners and handles better. The big bumps are no problem now. One reasons I got the Tundra was that my 97 Tacomas ride was too stiff and bumpy. The ride in the Tundra is still nice. It will be a little stiffer but not by much.
So you have the bilstein coilovers and the 5100 rears? That's the set up I am considering. Do you also have a lift or does the adjustment on the front coilovers do it enough and where did you purchace?
The fronts are the adjustable Bilstein coilovers. They will bring the truck up about 2in in the front. Just enough lift for me. If you really want a lift,go with one of the 6in lifts. I also put in the differential drop spaces since I didn't want to have to mess with replacing the axle boots. You will have to do some cutting on the front skid plate if you put in the drop spacers because the bolts protrude to low to get it back on. The directions are wrong on the coilover install. You have to put the springs on the shocks with the adjusters all the way backed off. After they are installed you can start cranking them up. Use antiseze on the threads. I painted it on with a small flux brush. The chart with the instructions is pretty acurate on how much lift you will get. And plan on getting it aligned after the install. Save the stock front coils and shocks just in case you change your mind and want to go with the 6in lift because the I heard the Bilsteins will not work with that lift. I got everything at ORW.
I just put them on a couple of months ago. I used vice grips to hold the stem at the top of the stock shocks while I loosend the nut. It is a tight space.
A coworker just did shocks on his brother-in-law's Tundra today. He did the same thing TUNDRA RU did,vice grips on the shock shaft while loosening the top nut. A bit if a PITA since the truck has over 100k miles with all sorts of crud and corrosion from NJ winters.
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I just received my New Bilstein 5100 rear shocks for my Tundra and my question mainly was how easy is this too install..I have a lot of tool's but is this a hard install and what is required to install these on my Truck? For those with the Bilsteins 5100 did you notice a stiffer ride ?
thank's
Getting the top nut is hard. I did the first one with a regular box wrench - it took forever. I went out and bought ratchetting box wrenches to make getting at the top nut much easier and quicker. I would highly recommend them. However, if I remember correctly the stock nuts and the 5100 nuts were different sizes so you'd need two different wrenches.
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2003 Stratosphere Mica SR5 Access Cab
Shocks: Bilstein 5100 coilovers and 5100s in the rear.
Wheels: Toyo Open Country A/T 275/70/16s on MB Blitz rims
If you have a hitch, jack the truck up at the hitch to make it easier to remove the shock and install them. Jack it up just where the tires are barely touching the ground, you don't need anything more. If not you are going to be pench pressing the lower part of the shock to the mount. Remove the rear spare tire to get better access to either of the top nuts. Use locking pliers and a ratcheting wrench(or open end but, it'll take longer) to remove the top nut. For the 5100's, use an allen key and ratcheing wrench( or open end).
Getting the top nut is hard. I did the first one with a regular box wrench - it took forever. I went out and bought ratchetting box wrenches to make getting at the top nut much easier and quicker. I would highly recommend them. However, if I remember correctly the stock nuts and the 5100 nuts were different sizes so you'd need two different wrenches.
Not right now... I'll check the old shocks tonight and I will read the 5100 manuals and get back to you.
I think the 5100s were 14mm. And if you have access to the garage you can probably find the stock size in there.
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2003 Stratosphere Mica SR5 Access Cab
Shocks: Bilstein 5100 coilovers and 5100s in the rear.
Wheels: Toyo Open Country A/T 275/70/16s on MB Blitz rims
The top bolt is 14mm. And yes when the salt gets to them it is a PIA. I bought a demolition blade (12" long) for my sawzall and cut into the bolt halfway until the blade went dull (and it was a metal cutting blade). Then just sprayed it with a penetrant, took my wrench to it and it came right out. The driver's left side bolt is really easy to get to if you remove the spare tire.
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I would be glad to give you a hand...it is not as hard as you think. the shocks are not as stiff as you might think but it still feels good. do you have any power tools?
Quote:
Originally Posted by TUNDRAV8GEORGIA
I think this shock is a stiff one consiring the type driving I do i figured it was best to upgrade to a stiffer setup and I needed something that would last and I was told the 5100 was the best on the market from the ranchos i was looking at as well
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how easy to replace rear shock's
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