Upgraded Lower Ball Joints

[tundra61]

I have 2001 with DR coil overs. I have them set to around 2.5+ inches.

The truck has about 62,000 miles and I have had the lift for about 10,000.

I am really annal about keeping everything in top top shape and am planning on doing some front end maintenance in the near future. Also, I sometimes hear the infamous "clunk" when making turns.

So, I know all about the uppers and aftermarket UCAs but does anyone know if there is any type of updgrade for the lower ball joints? Even if it is not something like the uniball, are there any companies that make a better than OEM lower. (I checked my truck for the ball joint recall and it does not apply to me.)

Also, for those of you who have a CO lift, what kind of maintenance/replacement have you had to do with steering related components (other than new bushing). ie tie rod ends etc.

Since I am asking questions, what about bearing? Has any one replaced them and at what mileage?

Tundra61

[H2O_MAN]

Originally Posted by tundra61

are there any companies that make a better than OEM lower. (I checked my truck for the ball joint recall and it does not apply to me.)
Tundra61

The replacement OEM lowers are better than what you have.
I just had mine replaced under the recall and they are a stouter design.

If you can't locate an aftermarket product consider the NEW OEM lowers.

[DevinSixtySeven]

wait, so the new oem lower assembly fits the 00-02 lower control arm and spindle? i thought they were different starting in 03 or 04, or are you talking about an update to the original lower ball joints rather than the late model lower ball joint?

-sean

[Imdone]

I just replaced mine and they looked the same. I didn't see any difference. Mine are for a 00.

[dezert_rida]

Originally Posted by tundra61

I have 2001 with DR coil overs. I have them set to around 2.5+ inches.

The truck has about 62,000 miles and I have had the lift for about 10,000.

I am really annal about keeping everything in top top shape and am planning on doing some front end maintenance in the near future. Also, I sometimes hear the infamous "clunk" when making turns.

So, I know all about the uppers and aftermarket UCAs but does anyone know if there is any type of updgrade for the lower ball joints? Even if it is not something like the uniball, are there any companies that make a better than OEM lower. (I checked my truck for the ball joint recall and it does not apply to me.)

Also, for those of you who have a CO lift, what kind of maintenance/replacement have you had to do with steering related components (other than new bushing). ie tie rod ends etc.

Since I am asking questions, what about bearing? Has any one replaced them and at what mileage?

Tundra61

I dont know of any upgraded lower ball joints. Only thing you could do would be to get some 04 or newer spindles which accomodate 04 and up ball joints which use 12mm bolts as opposed to 10mm bolts.

Ive been all through the raised steering issue. I have my DREs set at 4" lift, with TC UCAs. I was getting a rubbing\scrapping sound on turns....I thought it was the inner tie rods scrapping the rack because the angle was huge. I converted the steering to use heim joints with a sleeve that threaded on to the inner tie rod, but i mounted them on top of the steering arm(after drilling it straight to 5\8") to greatly reduce the angle on the rack. I had it aligned right after. Well, i found rather quickly that not only did that not solve the problem(found it was coming from the uni balls on the upper arms) but now i have bumpsteer, which is kinda creepy.

I found that taking the bolt and missalignments out of the uniball and drowning it in molly grease while cycling it and ressaembling eliminated the noise. Now all i have left to do is buy new lower ball joints and outer tie rods to convert back to stock. The steering arm is part of the lower ball joints.

[tundra61]

You are a brave soul "experimenting" with steering components.

[dsrtrcr01]

Originally Posted by tundra61

You are a brave soul "experimenting" with steering components.

Sounds like a safe bet. Using Heims is stronger then tie rods. I am sure he used Grade 8 or at least grade5 bolts and everything else is stock. Sounds stronger then stock to me. But he did change the steering angles which caused the bump steer.

When your A-arm cycles it actually increases your track width. When you changed the angle of the tie rod it no longer had the same angles as the A-arms causing the bumpsteer because as your track width increased on compression but your tie rod did not get longer as it did when it had the same angles as the A-arms.

I built ALL my own steering for my desert truck. Idler arm from scratch, Centerlink, Tie rods, and Pitman arm. The steering box and shaft are stock.

[dezert_rida]

Originally Posted by dsrtrcr01

Sounds like a safe bet. Using Heims is stronger then tie rods. I am sure he used Grade 8 or at least grade5 bolts and everything else is stock. Sounds stronger then stock to me. But he did change the steering angles which caused the bump steer.

When your A-arm cycles it actually increases your track width. When you changed the angle of the tie rod it no longer had the same angles as the A-arms causing the bumpsteer because as your track width increased on compression but your tie rod did not get longer as it did when it had the same angles as the A-arms.

I built ALL my own steering for my desert truck. Idler arm from scratch, Centerlink, Tie rods, and Pitman arm. The steering box and shaft are stock.

Im using grade 8, 5\8" bolts. Theres no way those bolts are gonna break.

On my 94 2wd Toyota, im running 1\2" bolts through the heims on the outers, and 5\8" bolts on the inners....still using the stock centerlink, idler and pitman on that however. I beat the snot outta that truck and never a failure. Theres some play in the idler, but im getting ready to sell it anyways.

[lewisb62]

Think the dealership would also replace the bushing with the bj replacement?
(for free of course!