Question on 36" tires

benjamintrd · #1 (**permalink**) 08-10-2005, 07:42 PM

Anybody out there running 36" tires or bigger with a 3" body and 6" suspension combination. I have the 2.5" leveling kit and a 3" body with 35" tires and they rub on the frame. I am trying to find out if I go to a 6" suspension and larger tires if they also will rub on the frame. Thanks for any help.

P07r0457 · #2 (**permalink**) 08-10-2005, 07:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by benjamintrd

Anybody out there running 36" tires or bigger with a 3" body and 6" suspension combination. I have the 2.5" leveling kit and a 3" body with 35" tires and they rub on the frame. I am trying to find out if I go to a 6" suspension and larger tires if they also will rub on the frame. Thanks for any help.

if they rub on the frame, you need to change your backspacing...

benjamintrd · #3 (**permalink**) 08-11-2005, 12:40 PM

On the set up I have everyone I have talked to has the same problem even with different backspacing.

Imdone · #4 (**permalink**) 08-11-2005, 08:58 PM

I have 35" tires and only a 6" RCD lift and I don't have any rubs. Did have one on the mudflap but I removed that so no more rub.

benjamintrd · #5 (**permalink**) 08-12-2005, 12:06 PM

When you do the body lift it rubs on the frame at full turn. So I am thinking of doing the rcd lift and maybe some 36 0r 37" tires. I don't do a lot of 4wheeling mostly just the mine roads at my grandfathers mine. I want to go bigger and I am not sure if I should straight axle or just put the RCD lift. I am not very mechanically inclined so the straight axle would be very expensive for me. Does anyone out there have anything bigger than 35" tires?

TMS2U · #6 (**permalink**) 08-12-2005, 02:34 PM

Frame rub at full lock is due to the backspacing of your wheels. What is the bs on your current wheels?

When I had only my coilovers and a BL with 3 5/8" bs wheels & 35's, the only rubbing I had was at the pinch weld when at a 3/4 turn and compression

Running anything larger than 35 will definately require regearing of your diffs to 4.56 or 4.88

RCD vs SAS- the prices will be close if you have to pay for the install, but the SAS will be more especially if you get quality parts. If you go the used part route the price will be close, but still a bit more. Dont ask me tho- I'm biased

You will, however, get a more capable rig out of the deal

benjamintrd · #7 (**permalink**) 08-12-2005, 05:09 PM

I have been to your site and I am very impressed. My brother had a friend of ours do a SAS on his 99 chevy and the initial cost before the transfer case was around $10,000. I love straight axles but really will never use the full potential of the rig. If I do go the SAS route will I have to swap out the factory transfere case? Also is it better to do a modified steering box or go to a hydralic steering setup and what is the cost. Thank You for your help and advice. What happened to the tundra on 42" after the stolen recovery? My wheels are the 3 5/8" back spacing 8x16 when I had the 285's it never rubbed.

TMS2U · #8 (**permalink**) 08-12-2005, 08:45 PM

I'm perplexed as to why you are getting rubbing with that wheel- that was my set up as well

315/75/16 tire???

As for the SAS, the axle build is the most expensive part. My total was somewhere around 9k using high end axle shafts, u joints, and hydro assist steering. In theory, you could build an axle for about 2-3k. As long as you use an axle with a drivers side pumkin the stock Xcase will work. Steering uses a standard box from early 90s ifs 4x4- hydro assist only makes it easier to steer and wheel, especially if you have a front locker.

My understanding is that Mikes rig was parted out after it was recovered as the engine was trashed

benjamintrd · #9 (**permalink**) 08-15-2005, 11:08 AM

Thanks again for the help. I have to save up some more money and after your advice and talking to some others that have done the SAS I think that this is the way I am going to go. I will be back in touch when I get all of this going. Thank You