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Suspension & AxleTechnical discussions regarding alignment, stock and modified suspensions, lift kits, axles, hub conversions, gearing and steering.
This is a discussion thread titled "Cable Ties: Nylon versus Stainless Steel", within the Suspension & Axle forum, part of the Technical & Vehicle Assistance Forums category.
Toyota called today with news that they could not find any clamps to fit in the CV Boots they are replacing on my truck. Just to refresh, I lifted the truck and the traditional speakage of grease were coming out the end of the CV Boots on the differential end. I went to Home Depot, nada. I went to Lowe's, nada. Went to three auto parts stores, nada. So, fustrated as all get out, I heard someone say that they used Zip Ties to resolve the problem with the OEM clamp. Well, I started digging out and found a killer website:
Starting looking at this website and discovered some pretty cool stuff. Obviously, the point of visit was to address the issue I had with the clamp. I found some 250 lb. cable ties both in stainless steel and nylon. I also found a tensioning tool rated for 175 lbs. I am still waiting to see if the tensioning tool can tighten up the stainless steel cable ties or not. My question is this: would you boys roll with nylon or stainless steel cable ties.
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Previous Trucks Owned:
1990 Toyota Xtra-Cab 2wd (145,000 miles)
1996 Toyota Tacoma Ext. Cab 4wd (171,000 miles)
2004 Toyota Tundra DC 4wd (Phantom Grey - 48,700 miles and counting)
Toyota truck user for 16 years and counting..........
Also known as Thibodeaux at the Fuge.
Gig'em Ag's (Class of '94)
Modifications on DC to date:
3" Toytec lift, 1.5" Add-A-Leaf, Line X, Eagle Alloys Series 101 16x8 (3.60 B.S.), 285/75/R16's Cooper Discoverer ST's
1990 Toyota Xtra-Cab 2wd (145,000 miles)
1996 Toyota Tacoma Ext. Cab 4wd (171,000 miles)
2004 Toyota Tundra DC 4wd (Phantom Grey - 48,700 miles and counting)
Toyota truck user for 16 years and counting..........
Also known as Thibodeaux at the Fuge.
Gig'em Ag's (Class of '94)
Modifications on DC to date:
3" Toytec lift, 1.5" Add-A-Leaf, Line X, Eagle Alloys Series 101 16x8 (3.60 B.S.), 285/75/R16's Cooper Discoverer ST's
Tie,
Went through the same senario. I tried the stainless tie but couldn't tighten them to my satisfaction. I finally went with some heavy duty black nylon ties and they've been holding up for about 6 months. I wouldn't hesitate to use nylon.
Cool. Not to sound like a DORK, but you remember what tensile strength nylon straps you used? I have 120 lbs. and 175 lbs. The 175 lbs. looks like it would fit. Close. But fit.
__________________
Previous Trucks Owned:
1990 Toyota Xtra-Cab 2wd (145,000 miles)
1996 Toyota Tacoma Ext. Cab 4wd (171,000 miles)
2004 Toyota Tundra DC 4wd (Phantom Grey - 48,700 miles and counting)
Toyota truck user for 16 years and counting..........
Also known as Thibodeaux at the Fuge.
Gig'em Ag's (Class of '94)
Modifications on DC to date:
3" Toytec lift, 1.5" Add-A-Leaf, Line X, Eagle Alloys Series 101 16x8 (3.60 B.S.), 285/75/R16's Cooper Discoverer ST's
I think you're headed in the wrong direction. You don't need max tension on the tie to keep the grease in. You do need consistant and maintainable tension.
Being a zip-tie guru of sorts, I would suggest a 50 is pound rated tie (should be about 1/4") that is of sufficient length to encircle the boot. If you use a lighter rated tie, that is stretched throughout it's length when you tighten it, when it relaxes due to strain, it will retain it's tension and pressure.
If you use a 200 pound rated tie, not only will you have pinch points and have to buy a tool, you'll likely not have a uniform pressure on the boot. That could cause leakage and potentially boot damage. Nobody likes a damaged boot.
Anyways, the lighter ties are easier to find (acklands-grainger for example) and cheap. If I'm totally on glue, which is unlikely due to my guru status, you're not out much time or money.
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