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Suspension & AxleTechnical discussions regarding alignment, stock and modified suspensions, lift kits, axles, hub conversions, gearing and steering.
This is a discussion thread titled "DJ, another Alignment question", within the Suspension & Axle forum, part of the Technical & Vehicle Assistance Forums category.
2005 Tundra DC, been to dealer three times for vehicle pulling to the right. Can not go 75 yds, hands off steering wheel before it runs off road. Dealer replaced both front tires at last attempt.
Dealer alignment:
Camber: L -0.27 R -0.37
Caster: L 3.00 R 2.67
Toe: L 0.06 R 0.01 Total Toe: 0.07
Talked to another Alignment Shop and showed them your specs for the Tundra
camber and told them it pulls to the right very quickly.
First Alignment:
Camber: L 0.00 R 0.02
Caster: L 2.83 R 2.85
Toe: L 0.06 R 0.07 Total Toe: 0.13
Needless to say, the truck pulled to the right just as bad. Cost $91.90
Told them it was not right and again left a copy of your specs.
2nd. Alignment:
Camber: L -0.04 R -0.01
Caster: L 2.28 R 2.63
Toe: L 0.05 R 0.04 Total Toe: 0.09
Again it still pulls to the right.. amd foolishly paid them again $ 53.93
Told them it still is not right and I want it so the vehicle will not pull to the right.
3rd. Alignment
Camber: L 0.19 R 0.10
Caster: L 1.71 R 2.90
Toe: L 0.03 R 0.02 Total Toe: 0.05
The vehicle still pulls to the right instant I take my hand off the steering wheel, They had a bill for $ 96.00 and I told them I had already paid over $ 140 bucks and they still have not fixed the problem and was not paying any more money until it is corrected properly. They said they can't do anymore for they don't know what is wrong.
What is going on? Should I take it back to the dealer and demand something be done (has 28,500 miles, and warrenty is to 36,000). I'm can't believe this problem can't be fixed some how. Jon
A significant difference between left and right caster can cause a pull, which is away from the side with the most positive caster. Now consider the caster settings you've had, specifically looking at the side-to-side difference in caster, and note that you still had a strong pull to the right in all four cases:
If caster were the only factor in generating pull, then the first setting should have pulled slightly to the right, the second should have been neutral, the third should have pulled slightly to the left, and the fourth should have pulled strongly to the left. Instead, it always pulled strongly to the right. This means something else is generating the pull, and it does so strongly enough to counter whatever steering forces are generated by caster.
So, look elsewhere. The usual culprit, side-to-side caster difference, ain't guilty.
There is one other type of misalignment that can generate a pull.
The steering axis of a wheel is the nearly vertical line through the center of the upper and lower ball joint. SAI (Steering Axis Inclination) is the inward lean of the steering axis. Camber is the outward lean of the wheel. So, SAI is not something you can "adjust", as it is fixed in value by the spindle and by camber. Indeed, the sum of camber and SAI is called "included angle", which is a measure of whether or not the spindle is bent.
Normally, SAI runs about 10 degrees on a Tundra. If one of your spindles is bent, the corresponding SAI will be off, and included angle will be off as well. SAI being off usually does not generate a pull unless it is extreme, but it's worth checking. But, a bent spindle can give you a different scrub radius on the corresponding wheel, and that can most definitely generate a pull.
You can also suspect a dragging brake on the right front wheel or the right rear wheel. Presumably that would have been caught during alignment when the alignment sensors were compensated for runout, but don't count on it.
Finally, you could have a tight or dragging bearing on the right front wheel. If it's 4WD, you could have a stuck hub that's making the right axle turn when the left one isn't, thus putting a slight drag on the right front wheel.
Something ain't right, and I don't think alignment is the problem.
Hope someone can help...I have an 02 Tundra limited 4x4. I am only getting about 10000 miles out of the rear tires. Front tires are fine.
the wear is even accross both tires. A little more on the right rear(drive tire). Keeping about 32 psi in tires. I drive like my Grandmother, so I know it is not my driving.
Any suggestions? Thanks
Buck
I also looked on past threads but nothing about rear even tire wear.
__________________
2002 TRD 4X4
Flowmaster dual exhaust
K@N Airfilter
Michelin LTX M/S 265 75 16
Used to own 1985 FJ-60
if a brake pad/shoe is hanging up badly enough to cause this pull, you should easily be able to tell either by looking for the dirty wheel covered with brake dust (if in the front) or by touch, feeling for a wheel that is hotter than the others near the hub after driving a distance at speed.
bent suspension can be tricky. if you're the original owner, you probably know if the truck has smacked a curb or pothole really hard. of course, a factory defect could also be the source of a bent component.
i don't think you posted thrust angle in your original writeup. did you get that on the printout? an improperly mounted rear axle or badly bent or misaligned leaf spring set up could cause the truck to dog leg down the road and on a crowned road this might cause the pull. have someone follow you to see if the truck is tracking straight when driving straight down the road.
it's a 2wd, so that rules out a stuck hub. if it wasn't you could probably jack it up and experiment with turning the front wheels to see if something isn't releasing.
new tires didn't fix it so that rules out rubber.
a tight or dragging bearing is easy to troubleshoot. jack up the front and spin the wheel. if you hear or feel roughness, you know it's either the bearing or the brake pad dragging. disassemble to rule out brake, then rule out bearing.
the dealer "should" have done all of this for you. (ha!). under warranty, so keep hassling them until it's fixed. this is unacceptable in a new vehicle.
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