Engine noise filtering through torn steering shaft boot? - Page 3

Agent WD-40 · #31 (**permalink**) 07-03-2006, 03:44 PM

Any ideas for a fix without having to replace the steering shaft boot? Would some silicone sealant over the crack in the boot work or just make things worse in about a month or so?

This problem became really obvious right after I put my JBA headers on.

Agent WD-40 · #32 (**permalink**) 07-06-2006, 06:44 PM

Well I just got back from the dealer. They replaced the steering shaft boot. The truck is silent now, even with headers. All I hear is my exhaust under acceleration now. No more annoying engine noise. I'm quite pleased.

TS comes through again!

BoostedH23a1 · #33 (**permalink**) 09-06-2006, 05:37 PM

i dont understand. i replaced my headers with aftermarket, still get the ticking noise.... i can see how the boot fix would make it be quiet inside, but its still gonna sound like crap outside...sounds horrible pulling out of the boat ramps....

Agent WD-40 · #34 (**permalink**) 09-06-2006, 06:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BoostedH23a1

i dont understand. i replaced my headers with aftermarket, still get the ticking noise.... i can see how the boot fix would make it be quiet inside, but its still gonna sound like crap outside...sounds horrible pulling out of the boat ramps....

It will fix it. Mine really sounded like crap before in the cab. Not I can't tell in the cab and I can't really tell if there is an echo off concrete either. I also have exhaust so that probably masks the sound. The steering boot was a great fix though.

KFlash · #35 (**permalink**) 07-03-2007, 08:26 AM

I have also been fighting to find a solution to the now very pronounced exhaust leak noise on the driver's side. I changed the exhaust manifold and though it was a neat "project", it was costly and didn't fix the noise. I now am onto the steering shaft boot. Mine is totally trashed. Just a big hole where the boot once was. I do have a body lift on and the shaft does appear to be shifted to one side.

Anyone changed the boot and know the easiest approach?

mustang67408 · #36 (**permalink**) 07-03-2007, 10:31 AM

Yes its crooked from the body lift, mine is the same way and is torn. Havent had time to replace it yet.

I take the inner cover off (3 bolts) by the drivers feet, then carefully knocked the bushing down.
I mark the streering shaft where it connects by the rack and then disconnect it from the rack and remove the lower 1/2. The steering bushing should slide out the bottom under the truck.
I use a long extension to gentle tap the new one back into place.
Then reassemble everything.
Doesnt take but 15-20 minutes, but I have a hoist

Leathernuts · #37 (**permalink**) 07-05-2007, 11:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Agent WD-40

............................. I'm quite pleased.

TS comes through again!

TS or Leathernuts?????

Im just kidding. This is a great site!!!

KFlash · #38 (**permalink**) 07-14-2007, 09:01 AM

I installed the new dust seal this morning. As mustang67408 said, it was real easy and only a 15-20 minute fix. Again, if I had only found this first. The truck is back to sounding totally normal. Hard to imagine all that noise being blocked by a piece of rubber.

I thoroughly sprayed the seal down with a silicon lubricant. It still may wear out due to the body lift changing the angle of the shaft, but hopfully will last for a while. Now I know!

Thanks again for the great posts!

Garth · #39 (**permalink**) 08-08-2007, 03:58 PM

Here's a pic. Ordered the new gasket, I'll probably install it this weekend, thanks for the installation instructions!

-Garth

KFlash · #40 (**permalink**) 08-08-2007, 07:46 PM

This is why this site is so cool. How else would the average dude be able to track this issue down. Definately mark your shaft at the splines before you take it apart. Black sharpe works great. The splines are fairly fine and it wouldn't take much for them to be off. I also seatbelted my steering wheel so it didn't turn. Once I took the inner covers off below the dash, the bushing is right there infront of you. It does take a little bit of a wack to knock it down. It is just lightly pressed into the hole in the firewall. I have sprayed mine with silicon twice now. Still looks good.

mustang67408 · #41 (**permalink**) 08-08-2007, 07:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KFlash

. Black sharpe works great. I also seatbelted my steering wheel so it didn't turn. .

Great Ideas

Now I remember where I heard it

I use a white Liquid paper pen.

John2001 · #42 (**permalink**) 08-08-2007, 08:47 PM

Just checked my 2001 Tundra. Ripped seal. This is a stock truck, no lift. Thanks mustang67408 for the instructions!

It does look it will take some serious PB Blaster soaking to get the steering shaft loose. This site ROCKS!

KFlash · #43 (**permalink**) 08-08-2007, 09:14 PM

mustang67408

don't know where we'd be without you! Saved me a few times - that's for sure!

mustang67408 · #44 (**permalink**) 08-08-2007, 09:35 PM

Actually I give the credit to TS.
Without this site, none of us would be able to help each other.

Garth · #45 (**permalink**) 08-09-2007, 08:02 AM

exactly what I was thinking yesterday when I first found this problem. A problem that's been bugging me for about a yr now!

The power of the internet... and helpful "neighbors"!

Thanks guys.
-Garth

Btw, my truck isn't lifted either, original lift height. This is just a poorly designed part apparently, either it should be made of thicker material, or different material maybe?