Engine noise filtering through torn steering shaft boot? - Page 4

Garth · #46 (**permalink**) 08-10-2007, 01:58 PM

I take the inner cover off (3 bolts) by the drivers feet, then carefully knocked the bushing down.
I mark the streering shaft where it connects by the rack and then disconnect it from the rack and remove the lower 1/2. The steering bushing should slide out the bottom under the truck.
I use a long extension to gentle tap the new one back into place.
Then reassemble everything.
Doesnt take but 15-20 minutes, but I have a hoist

My part came in, so now I'm trying to follow these directions, but have a question, where on the steering column did you disconnect it from the steering rack? at the four bolts right above the oil lines? Mine are all rusted, hitting them with WD-40 to soak now... then you must take the spline bolt off too, to get the seal off? It doesn't look like it'll go over the bracket for the steering rack.

-Garth

mustang67408 · #47 (**permalink**) 08-10-2007, 03:21 PM

Do not remove those 4 bolts
See pic, remove the bolt holding it to the rack and the one above where the splines are , slide the lower piece up the splines and off the rack, then slide it down the splines and remove it, the seal will slide off. then install seal, slide piece up splines and then down back onto rack, reinstall bolts.
Mark the splines and the rack, lock steering wheel, so it doesnt spin or you will break the spiral cable for the airbag.

Garth · #48 (**permalink**) 08-10-2007, 04:08 PM

ah! ok, thanks. I'll have to hit it with more wd-40 and maybe get some of that pb-blaster to soak these bolts/nuts/splines.

-Garth

mustang67408 · #49 (**permalink**) 08-10-2007, 04:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Garth

ah! ok, thanks. I'll have to hit it with more wd-40 and maybe get some of that pb-blaster to soak these bolts/nuts/splines.

-Garth

Glad I dont live back east. I hate rust!
Good Luck

Garth · #50 (**permalink**) 08-11-2007, 03:47 PM

Yeah, autos are getting better at dealing with it for the most part, but when you run into something like this, that hasn't budged since it was put together 7.5+ yrs ago(and it's exposed in the undercarriage), it can be a pain!

-Garth

John2001 · #51 (**permalink**) 08-15-2007, 08:37 PM

Well, how's it going Garth? You make any progress? I've been PB blasting my parts for about a week now and I still can't break the shafts loose from the coupling. I got the clamping bolts out. I would assume one shouldn't pound too hard on it because of the rack input shaft. Any ideas I'm missing, anyone? This salt infested part of the country is BAD!

mustang67408 · #52 (**permalink**) 08-15-2007, 11:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by John2001

Any ideas I'm missing, anyone? This salt infested part of the country is BAD!

Buy a new lower shaft and coupling

, have it as a spare or back up, just incase you FUBAR the old ones getting them out.
I might try some mild heat, a SMALL hammer and brass drift to gently nudge the coupling up.
There are some TS members that can supply Toyota parts at a discounted rate

.
Just a few thoughts

John2001 · #53 (**permalink**) 08-16-2007, 02:20 PM

I'm making some progress. I got the top shaft broke loose from the coupling. But the shaft from the rack to the coupling is still froze. Does anyone know if the hole that the rack shaft goes into is open at the top of that piece of the coupling? Will it help to spray Blaster up there?

mustang67408 · #54 (**permalink**) 08-16-2007, 02:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by John2001

I'm making some progress. I got the top shaft broke loose from the coupling. But the shaft from the rack to the coupling is still froze. Does anyone know if the hole that the rack shaft goes into is open at the top of that piece of the coupling? Will it help to spray Blaster up there?

Yes, I am pretty sure it is. The one I have in front of me is.

John2001 · #55 (**permalink**) 08-16-2007, 02:59 PM

mustang67408! I thought it might be another way to get some Blaster on that shaft. This job really is making the JBA install look easy. Nothing was this much trouble.

John2001 · #56 (**permalink**) 08-17-2007, 09:15 PM

OK, I finally got it done. The coupling wouldn't break loose from the rack input shaft so I removed the 2 bolts that hold the coupling together. Then I disconnected the u-joint so the steering shaft could come out so I could clean up the splines for the coupler to slid back together. Glad that job is done! These parts look like their 100 years old, stored at the bottom of a lake. Dang road salt!

mustang67408 · #57 (**permalink**) 08-17-2007, 09:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by John2001

OK, I finally got it done. The coupling wouldn't break loose from the rack input shaft so I removed the 2 bolts that hold the coupling together. Then I disconnected the u-joint so the steering shaft could come out so I could clean up the splines for the coupler to slid back together. Glad that job is done! These parts look like their 100 years old, stored at the bottom of a lake. Dang road salt!

I bet its alot quieter now too

John2001 · #58 (**permalink**) 08-18-2007, 12:43 PM

I forgot how quiet a 6 year old truck can be! With the new JBA headers and now the steering seal, it sounds like new again!

This site is awesome, without it I would have never considered doing either of these projects myself.

Subscribing to it was money well spent!

sic402 · #59 (**permalink**) 08-20-2007, 02:07 PM

Maybe i missed it but do any of you know the part number for this on the tundra? mines completly gone and looking online for the number came up with nothing, thanks

KFlash · #60 (**permalink**) 08-20-2007, 06:02 PM

It's listed as "seal, main shaft"
Part #45292-35090 (mine is a 2002 - not sure if the part # is the same)
I don't think you'll find it on line-probably dealer only