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Suspension & AxleTechnical discussions regarding alignment, stock and modified suspensions, lift kits, axles, hub conversions, gearing and steering.
This is a discussion thread titled "hellwig sway bar?", within the Suspension & Axle forum, part of the Technical & Vehicle Assistance Forums category.
I would appreciate if someone would chime in their .02 on sway bars....particularly the hellwig. I am just getting into learning about trucks. From what i understand there are 2 sway bar positions...front and back. Would my truck (01 Tundra AC) have either of these...and how could i check? What is the benefit of installing one of these puppies...and is it worthwild to do if i dont have 4x4. Is it something self installed or taken to a professional. What are the drawbacks. Etc. If you got anything to say i would appreciate reading it.
01's did not come with a rear sway bar (Hellwig is a rear sway bar).
The sway bar helps in cornering. I'm really glad I have it when I'm on winding roads.
Sway bars actually decrease articulation so they are not meant for any serious off-roading.
I am not very mechanically inclined and I was able to install it by myself in about an hour with nothing more than a few wrenches and sockets.
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'01 Color-Keyed Limited Tundra TRD 4x4
JBA Headers, TRD Exhaust, IS Grill, IS Bilsteins, Hellwig Sway Bar, AR-23 wheels w/ 265/75 Yokohama AT's, SnugTop XV Shell, BedRug, Yakima Rack
does decrease articulation mean a loose rear end. i remember i had a dodge before this and the reason i HATED that thing was that any time i braked quickly my rear end would skip....like hop scotch down the road. it didnt feel safe at all. turning it could get a bit loose on me too. my tundra doesnt do this at all....and being a new owner....it is one of the main reasons i am loving it. i dont want to add anything that will change this for the neg. is this the case?
and as for serious off roading....not doing it. could i possible be in a muddy field after a football tailgate? yes. could i be at a NASCAR race and have to negotiate cars by going "off road"....well yes. could i be in the mountains on a back gravel road looking for a fishing spot. yep. i dont consider this serious off-roading.
?? and i take it the sway bar would not damper this???
01's did not come with a rear sway bar (Hellwig is a rear sway bar).
The sway bar helps in cornering. I'm really glad I have it when I'm on winding roads.
Sway bars actually decrease articulation so they are not meant for any serious off-roading.
I am not very mechanically inclined and I was able to install it by myself in about an hour with nothing more than a few wrenches and sockets.
I don't believe in modifications, or add-on's, unless they assist in function or durability; preferring to run 'dead-on stock.' Therefore I have only two mods on my '03 Tundra 4WD V-8: In-line transmission oil filter and Hellwig rear anti-sway bar. Concerning the sway-bar: It is a very worthwhile addition to any Tundra, 6 or V-8, 2WD or 4WD. With good tires, the proper wheel alignment and a Hellwig, your pickup will handle BETTER, in all probability, than any pickup you've ever driven. It will retain it's great, smooth ride and steer 'tighter,' as a bonus.
Installing the bar is not difficult. I'm past 60 and overweight, and I had no problems a'tall, doing it alone. Took me almost 2 hours, but I am slow'ern molasses flows in Winter.
In summary, I really do NOT like modifications. When I tell you, I believe it's more than worth it, it's only because that the benefits to the 'road-worthiness' of the vehicle (functionality) are actually present.
Mine has the standard suspension. Those with the suspension upgrade have reported the same benefits. BTW, I was going to add Bilsteins...but the Hellwig tightened up an already very roadworthy pickup to the extent that a shock-absorber upgrade is not needed, a'tall. I'm still running OE shocks after 61,000 miles, with extremely satisfactory results.
Thank you for your posting. that was the type of testament i was looking to convince me. I have added it to my list.....the list not being mods right now but "fixes" (bulbs, o2 sensor is all i got left).
I am curious as to your other mod. What is the in line transmission oil filter??
The in-line transmission filter (can be one of several brands/one of two different types) is placed in a oil cooler line going between the transmission and the oil cooler in the bottom of the radiator and, in some cases the little aux. cooler in front of the radiator. On these Tundra pickups, there is a pan drain plug, so it's really easy to do a periodic drain of about 4 quarts of ATF. There is an internal screen, rather than a filter, on these AW transmissions. Therefore, about the only thing you accomplish by removing the transmission pan is to be able to clean the accumulated grey 'gunk' from the inside of the pan and to see if their is any metal/alumnium (which is bad news) in the pan. The proper type of an in-line filter acts exactly the same way as a true internal trans. filter; meaning it actually filters ( rather than just screening big particles out of) the oil. In addition, any metal particles become attached to the magnet inside the filter.
It's simply added insurance to place such a filter 'in-line' and it is very easy to do so. If one plans to keep his pickup several years and drive it over, say 150,000 miles, or so, such a filter (assuming your Tundra was built with a good transmission), just makes sense.
I pan drain my fluid every 15,000 miles (which is likely oftener than necessary) and change the in-line filter every 30,000 miles, because it's so dog-gone easy to do both.
One other thing: THREE different A/T fluids have been used in the Tundras, dependant on the year model. BEFORE adding/changing fluid look on your dipstick or in your owners manual. BE SURE to use the specified fluid. You will find some folks use a 'universal' type fluid, such as Amsoil. While I do believe Amsoil makes very good products (I use some of their grease and anti-slip additives) I am not about to risk a transmission to anyone's universal ATF. My 2003 says T-IV fluid. I think the 2000 thru 2002 Tundra uses Dexron III.
Use what Toyota says to use in yours...very important!
Now, the in-line filter. The best ones are a screw-in filter, very similiar to an oil filter. It's a little difficult (if you're old and lazy, like me) to initially install the necessary hardware for these, so I chose to use the Magnefine filter, which is a very well built filter and looks similiar to and is mounted in much the same manner as the in-line gas filter on many 1970 and 1980 vintage GM and Chrysler products.
This post is too long, but maybe it answered your questions.
The Magnefine is available on-line as well as locally. The proper size, if my memory is correct is 5/16".
Have you ever used auto-rx in your transmission? I had mine "flushed" at one of those oil change places. I cant say with certaintly they put in dexron III. i remember they charged me in extra 15 bucks to add something to the fluid that "toyota requires"...i know i got snuckered. but i didnt (and still dont really) know how to do it myself properly. i am considering driving around on this for about 20,000 miles, adding the auto-rx and then doing it myself....however i read that if i use rx i need to get it professionally flushed. Would this be a good time to do the inline filter too. I wonder if this is something i could do. You got me worried about my trans now. My truck has 56000 mileson it....but they are all miles i dont know the histroy of.....it was bought at an auction...an old corporate lease vehicle. I am trying to get it to a point where i know it is in quality condition. Unfortunatly i am also in the process of teaching myself from scratch how to work on vehicles. It has been fun though. i would gladly hear more of your thoughts. the anti sway bar hasnt been ordered yet....but its on the list.
Caleb; I wouldn't worry about it. Here's what you can do to ease your mind: (1) Look on the ATF dipstick & see what type of fluid is used; (4) buy 4 qts. of that type of fluid--if it's Dexron III, any name-brand of fluid is fine; (3) when you next drain your engine oil, also do an ATF pan drain and put the 4 qts. of ATF in through the ATF dipstick tube. That'll ease your mind and if you'll do that every, say 15,000 miles or so, you really won't need an in-line filter. Sure, there were some early Tundra pickups with problem transmissions, but not that many. I'll just bet that those with faulty planetaries would have crapped out if they'd had the best in-line filter in the world and fluid changed every time the motor oil was changed.
If you'll buy a Tundra-specific manual published by Chiltons and others (they have pictures) and do the ATF and other simple mantenance yourself, you'll know for sure your pickup is being maintained right and will not feel (justifiably or otherwise) that some 'snake-oil salesman' either ripped you off financially on your maintainence, or--worse--harmed your vehicle.
The chances are very, very good that you have a good, solid pickup and that your transmission is okay and that nothing that's been done to it since you've owned it has hurt it. These Tundras are fundamentally pretty dog-gone good rigs.