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Suspension & AxleTechnical discussions regarding alignment, stock and modified suspensions, lift kits, axles, hub conversions, gearing and steering.
This is a discussion thread titled "Still confused on wheel spacer choices", within the Suspension & Axle forum, part of the Technical & Vehicle Assistance Forums category.
I have called several companies that sell adapters. Some range from $114 for 4, to $360 for hub and wheel centric adapters. Fred Girsk (sp?) spacers says his are the best in america. I am wondering, do I really have to pay $360 for 4 wheel spacers? That sounds like alot of money for a piece of aluminum. Do I really need hub and wheel centric, neither?
The only thing is that the Fred Girsk adapters are wheel and hub centric and can be shipped tommorow, other companies need as much as 20 days!!!!
__________________ 2003 Toyota Tundra V8 4x4 AC Exterior: Trd Off-Road package, Trd Skid Plate, Borla Side Exit Exhaust, 30% Lumar tint, Enkei Deep Six 20's, 275/60/20 Cooper Zeon LTZ, Bilstein 5100's, Toytec add-a-leaf, UWS Lo-Pro Toolbox Interior: Alpine 9851, CDT 6.5" components, Alpine MRP-F240, MRD-M300, Kicker Comp 10", Ruger SR9 9mm in the console...
i noticed you have two threads with similar questions...
everybody is gonna say theirs are the best. there is no appreciable difference between steel and aluminum adapters, or spacers. mine are steel from aor4x4, i almost got a set from cali which were aluminum, i was ordering from aor at the time anyway and the shop in cali was out. they are LUG CENTRIC. so are the rims.
dont run spacers. only run adapters. they are not the same.
that is reasonable for adapters. they tend to run around 175 per pair, almost all that cost is machining, very little is material so theyre all gonna be a similar price.
when you get them, install and torque to 85 ft-lb in a star pattern, then do it again. put the wheels on the adapters and do the same thing. next day, pop the wheels off and retorque the lugs on the adapters, reinstall the wheels the same way. do this a few times, youll see that the lugs/nuts on the factory hub dont change much (if at all--shouldnt change at all). the lugs on the adapters will settle in, keep retorquing daily until they dont move. just leave the torque wrench in the truck and check every time you drive.
If you still have OEM wheels they are hub centric but if you have aftermarkets they could be either.
I have been through 3 sets of aftermarket wheels and they have all been lug centric.
for your spacers though it will make it difficult to get the OEM wheels centered on the new lugs because they are not lug centric, if you are putting lug centric aftermarket wheels on these then it won't be an issue.
So for your question about the guy selling hubcentric spacers you would be best to use these if you have OEM wheels, but if you have aftermarket wheels it may not matter.
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How do these work? they push the wheel out further away from the body?
The adapter act like mini rims. They attach to the truck as your rims would. The adapters have a new set of studs which then your rims would attach to as if it were the truck. The adapters are 'safer' than spacers because spacers decrease the amount of thread on the stud for you to attach your rims to the truck.
In short. Yes, they push the wheel further from the body.
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so can you get adapters in any bolt pattern? if so, can we then run any type of wheel as long as the hub size is the same?
Looks to me like if you ran the adapters, then the hub size of the rim wouldn't matter.
Brandon, you should just spring for the UCA's to get some extra clearance. Or get the adapters, then next set of tires get a 285 or 275 width so you can get rid of the adapter then.
/Mike
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2001 2WD Silver Tundra: 4x4 TRD springs, Daystar 1", Carson AAL, red/blue Bilsteins, 265/75 Revo's, IS kit(minus bumper) and rims(hand polished), RF851X amp, Alpine HU, JL 6.5"XR comps, Qlogic with JL 8W3V2 subs. 176k miles and counting......
2005 Silver Sienna LE with 12" Overhead DVD
Just my .02 if anyone is interrested. There is absolutley nothing wrong with running bolt on, one piece spacers. Two piece spacers go beyond sketchy (my friend had a set on his dodge). I ran my 1 piecers for about a year with relatively little problems (lost one wheel bearing impart of some water and added leverage). I may be revealing my level of sanity with this, but the spacers were 2.5". oops. Anyway, bolt on spacers are good as far as I'm concerned, as long as they clear your trucks' lugs (any shorter and you have to grind 'em down). If you want to go this route, I strongly recomend performancewheel.com
well, I put my spacers on fri. and the tires did not rub anymore on the control arm or the frame, but rubbed horribly on the fenders. I tried to cut a little, but it would take alot of cutting for these to work.
I guess I need 1" spacers. I was under the impression that 1.25-1.5" spacers would work just fine.
__________________ 2003 Toyota Tundra V8 4x4 AC Exterior: Trd Off-Road package, Trd Skid Plate, Borla Side Exit Exhaust, 30% Lumar tint, Enkei Deep Six 20's, 275/60/20 Cooper Zeon LTZ, Bilstein 5100's, Toytec add-a-leaf, UWS Lo-Pro Toolbox Interior: Alpine 9851, CDT 6.5" components, Alpine MRP-F240, MRD-M300, Kicker Comp 10", Ruger SR9 9mm in the console...