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Suspension & AxleTechnical discussions regarding alignment, stock and modified suspensions, lift kits, axles, hub conversions, gearing and steering.
This is a discussion thread titled "2" rear drop, what about brake adjustment??", within the Suspension & Axle forum, part of the Technical & Vehicle Assistance Forums category.
so i leveled off my 05 DC, used 2" shackles...truck is even now, but my question is what about that rear brake leveling adjustment (Load Sensing Propotioning and By–Pass Valve)...
how many inches apart should it be???...at stock its about 4 3/4" (see attached step #4)
i don't really haul anything heavy, maybe once in a while...any help is appreciated...thanks
change it by the same distance you changed the distance between the frame and the axle. right now it's acting like theres a load in the bed, so the rear brakes are being used more. if it goes low enough without a load in the bed i suppose the rear end might lock up before the front...
in other words get a longer bolt and open it 2 more inches and bring it back to 4 3/4"?
The best way to find this out is to find a stock truck like yours, measure from the bottom of the box to the eyelet of the rubber bushing on the rear end side of the spring bar that leads to the valve, then make your lowered truck measurement the same. It may take a longer bolt but these are readily available at home improvement centers. I got my stainless steel eye at Home Depot.
Phil
__________________ 05 White TRD D-Cab, SR5, Limited slip, 20" TRD Enkei's with BFGoodrich G-Force TA NT, All weather guard package, factory rear privacy glass with matching front door tint, Toyota bedliner plus bed mat, Toyota/A.R.E. color keyed tonneau cover, overhead console with temp, compass and Homelink, Toyota/Gentex electrochromatic mirror, keyless, mats, TRD aluminum front skidplate, Toyota/Bazooka VSE 100 watt self-powered subwoofer, TRD stainless exhaust tip, door sill guards, Custom TRD matched pin striping with Toyota logos, painted calipers with TRD letters, TRD billet aluminum third brake light cover with true TRD letters, Pioneer AVIC D-3 GPS head unit with IP Buss controlled Pioneer XM radio tuner and iPod interface, Pac remote(maintains steering wheel controls) Polk Audio speakers DB675 two way in rear, Polk DB6750 components in front powered by a Polk C400.4 4 channel amp, seperate amped Aura Pro Bass Shakers under each front seat, Bazooka EL series 8" 100 watt self-powered subwoofer with Polk Momo driver with quick disconnect, Memphis tweeters in rear, back-up sensors (very handy), foglight mod, Sylvania Silverstars in both head and fog lights, added rear halogen back-up lighting, BellTech 6700 1" lowering shackles, Hellwig anti-sway bar, Magnaflow 14586 Stainless muffler, Wheelskins two-tone leather steering wheel cover, Ventvisors for side and rear windows, custom lower grill insert, Hoppy tailgate spring. More to come!
youd need a longer bolt if you lifted it, you need a shorter bolt since you lowered it. actually it might be easier to use some galvanized steel strap and a couple nuts and bolts, use the same mounting position but put the eye bolt thing on the strap. i have the same setup but reversed since i have more suspension travel in the rear so the rear sits a couple inches higher.
Thanks guys...I did like Phil and others have said, I added a longer bolt and adjusted back to stock, about 4 3/4". To me it makes sense since I'm not loading anything, I just lowered the bed to even out the look.
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2" rear drop, what about brake adjustment??
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