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Suspension & AxleTechnical discussions regarding alignment, stock and modified suspensions, lift kits, axles, hub conversions, gearing and steering.
This is a discussion thread titled "Ez-lift spacers vs. Toytech?", within the Suspension & Axle forum, part of the Technical & Vehicle Assistance Forums category.
DevinSixtySeven, I figure you'll be the main one to post here.
I am looking for something different with my front lift. The toytechs ride a little harder than I wanted. I have heard the Ez-lift spacers ride alot better due to the fact that they mount on top of the shock instead of in the spring. This keeps the stock spring rate and still gives up to 2.75" of lift. But I have also heard that the spacers that mount above the shocks give more trouble than the ones that mount in the shock. All the reviews on the ez-lift spacers I have read have been good with no bad thoughts, some even prefered them over the cornfed lifts.
I was looking at these, TUNDRA LIFT
the 2.75" kit with diff drop kit.
I guess I just need to decide between these and the 5100's
__________________ 2003 Toyota Tundra V8 4x4 AC Exterior: Trd Off-Road package, Trd Skid Plate, Borla Side Exit Exhaust, 30% Lumar tint, Enkei Deep Six 20's, 275/60/20 Cooper Zeon LTZ, Bilstein 5100's, Toytec add-a-leaf, UWS Lo-Pro Toolbox Interior: Alpine 9851, CDT 6.5" components, Alpine MRP-F240, MRD-M300, Kicker Comp 10", Ruger SR9 9mm in the console...
someone else can help with better details, but a spacer giving almost 3" of lift that is a top plate spacer will destroy your ball joints...heres some of the info that i read awhile back which led me to daystar...Really need some advice on a spacer lift
__________________ 2006 Chevy Silverado 4wd 5.3 4.10 gears - Dual flowmaster 40's out back exiting at the sides
- Blackbear 89/93 octane tune (good for 25hp and its amazing, no more torque management)
- LT headers 14.41 @98mph
A REAL truck.
A differential drop kit that consists of longer bolts and a 1" or so spacer will relieve the increased angle on the ball joints, so the spacers really don't cause a major problem. I've been running a 2.5" front spacer with the Cornfed differential drop kit for quite a while now with no problems. The CV joint boots will spit a little grease, but I (and others) have replaced the CV joint rubber boot with a better 930 inner CV boot and it's running like a champ.
__________________
Waiter, how do you prepare your chickens?
Nothing special. We just tell them straight out that they're going to die.
Base: 2001 Tundra - Thunder Grey | SR5 | TRD | 4x4 | Bilstein Shocks | HD TRD Coil Springs | Tow Pkg | Factory Spray-on Bedliner | RS3000 Security
Mods: Mickey Thompson Classic II | Cornfed 2.5" Lift | Differential Drop Spacers | 930 Inner CV Boots | ProtechEZLift Limit Straps | Spintech Sportsman XL Muffler | Brembo Front Brake Rotors | A.R.E. Z-Series Cap w/ Thule Rack | Stubbs Rock Sliders | Hellwig Anti-Sway Bar | 285/75/16 BFG All Terrain TA KO's | VIAIR 400C Air Compressor w/ 2.5 gal tank | Front clear corner lamps | Odyssey PC1700T battery | Optima Red Top 75/35 battery (backup starter) | Hellroaring 95300A Isolator/Combiner | Truspeed Calibrator
Future: Winch Bumper | UCAs & Coilovers | RCD Lift | 4.30 Gears
A differential drop kit that consists of longer bolts and a 1" or so spacer will relieve the increased angle on the ball joints, so the spacers really don't cause a major problem. I've been running a 2.5" front spacer with the Cornfed differential drop kit for quite a while now with no problems. The CV joint boots will spit a little grease, but I (and others) have replaced the CV joint rubber boot with a better 930 inner CV boot and it's running like a champ.
Yes you are right because you have the "in the coil" spacer just like i have! He's talking about one of the top mount spacers..
__________________ 2006 Chevy Silverado 4wd 5.3 4.10 gears - Dual flowmaster 40's out back exiting at the sides
- Blackbear 89/93 octane tune (good for 25hp and its amazing, no more torque management)
- LT headers 14.41 @98mph
A REAL truck.
aw man i had this long techy reply all done up and then the machine ate it. this will probably be shorter.
i realized when you wrote above that i kinda have littered all over your other threads, i hope its been helpful .
i read over the referenced thread and there are some misconceptions there and possibly here. the biggest one seems to be what's at minor risk from a suspension lift and what's at burn & die risk. cv joints and boots are minor, the upper ball joint will ruin your day if it breaks.
the stock coilover is the limiting factor in the stock suspension. once it's removed, the stock upper ball joint in the stock upper control arm is the limiting factor. theres a pic in my gallery of the stuck upper ball joint from my 2000 tundra, it's very small and works fine to control lateral loads at the top of the spindle, not so well when it has to support repeated shock loads trying to shear the ball from the stud at the point that's marked as being half an inch diametre. for an idea of what the suspension does when it extends, i have uniball uppers from total chaos, they use a MASSIVE bolt through the uniball...it takes a 1-1/8" socket, i think it's either a 1" or 7/8" grade 8 bolt, just huge...for a while i ran with a busted limit strap and didnt know it, and eventually put new ones in. limit straps do stretch, i just replaced mine. as the limit strap stretched, the uniball assembly and that bolt became the limiter, and the bolt is slightly bent...just enough that it's hard to fit through the uniball and spacers, and it's quite a bolt. it used to slide through by hand without hangup, and i use a deadblow mallet to knock it in and out now. the ring that holds the uniball socket in the arm has pressed a groove in the misalignment spacer from being forced to maximum extension by the spring. dont limit on that half inch diameter upper ball joint, im sure its hardened and treated but if it breaks youre screwed.
the ride is so rough from an in-pack spacer because the travel range is the same but the travel ratio is biased almost entirely to compression, since only an inch or so of extension is available from iirc about 8 inches of travel (might be less, i dont remember). even speed bumps will extend the coilover to the stops with a 2.5" in pack spacer.
the danger on-pack spacers present is lowering the shock too much and forcing the upper ball joint to be the downtravel limiter. some spacer kits include two spacers for each coilover, one on top and one inside. this takes advantage of the additional downtravel fromthe stock ubj and uca and continues to use the stock coilover as thelimiting factor. i think maybe daystar or somebody had a kit like this, it was two poly or hdpe spacers or something like that for each coilover. bilstein is doing the same thing with their 5100 kit. the travel range is increased, so a 2" lift still has sufficient extension that speed bumps are drama free. there is nothing wrong with an on-pack spacer as long as it doesnt force the upper ball joint to limit downtravel, or if youre running a uniball upper control arm. if i sold them, i wouldnt bet the company, i'd measure first and let everyone know my measurements wouldnt break their truck, and if i were looking at spacers i'd measure my own truck first with the coilover out to see how much downtravel i could actually use before i risk the upper ball joint. something to consider, i know the daystar (or whoever it was) kit only had a very small spacer on top of the coilover, not a spacer that lifted 3" or anything like that. be certain, measure first (jack stand, floor jack, 19mm wrench and spanner, measuring tape), because if your junk breaks in the middle of nowhere, the spacer manufacturer isn't gonna pick your arse up just so you can soak 'em for selling a poorly designed part when you have a responsibility as well to run that part in such a way that it doesnt put you, passengers or people around you at risk .
so basically, On pack spacers are fine if the upper ball joint isnt in any kind of trouble. The lift that has a small in pack spacer and a small on pack spacer will help with the ride and not put as much stress on the upper ball joint. The 5100's would be the best option if I could get more than 2" out of them.
Is that what you are saying?
__________________ 2003 Toyota Tundra V8 4x4 AC Exterior: Trd Off-Road package, Trd Skid Plate, Borla Side Exit Exhaust, 30% Lumar tint, Enkei Deep Six 20's, 275/60/20 Cooper Zeon LTZ, Bilstein 5100's, Toytec add-a-leaf, UWS Lo-Pro Toolbox Interior: Alpine 9851, CDT 6.5" components, Alpine MRP-F240, MRD-M300, Kicker Comp 10", Ruger SR9 9mm in the console...
so basically, On pack spacers are fine if the upper ball joint isnt in any kind of trouble. The lift that has a small in pack spacer and a small on pack spacer will help with the ride and not put as much stress on the upper ball joint. The 5100's would be the best option if I could get more than 2" out of them.
Is that what you are saying?
I dont quite understand you on the first note...But the on pack spacers are what can lead to ball joint trouble! yeah it would be ok to use both...as long as its not a single top mount spacer to give 2.5,2.75 or 3" of lift...a good example of this is the daystar setup! they use a 1.25" spacer in the coil and a 1.25" top mount spacer...
__________________ 2006 Chevy Silverado 4wd 5.3 4.10 gears - Dual flowmaster 40's out back exiting at the sides
- Blackbear 89/93 octane tune (good for 25hp and its amazing, no more torque management)
- LT headers 14.41 @98mph
A REAL truck.
*edit* their product page looks like it has a thin spacer inside the pack, and a large spacer outside. maybe they changed it or something. its worth asking one of their engineers what's limiting the travel. fwiw i just totally edited my post, the following post has my original text...i wouldnt install a large on-pack spacer without knowing how large you can go before the upper ball joint hangs on extension.
yeah i have the in the coil daystar spacer in now and i BARELY noticed a ride change...mostly no more dive and roll in turns...i should be getting the other spacer tomorrow however being the top mount the ride should stay like normal so i expect very little ride change...you might wanna try daystar!
Quote:
Originally Posted by DevinSixtySeven
so it IS the daystar kit. i kept wondering...
:shrug: ya could just get the daystar kit. i wonder if they ever measured and thats how they split it, or if they just arbitrarily split it down the middle to keep the shocks from banging around.
yeah brandon youre correct.
__________________ 2006 Chevy Silverado 4wd 5.3 4.10 gears - Dual flowmaster 40's out back exiting at the sides
- Blackbear 89/93 octane tune (good for 25hp and its amazing, no more torque management)
- LT headers 14.41 @98mph
A REAL truck.
Just check them out at Wheeler's Off Road they have them at a decent price! If you need to call wheelers and they can answer any questions you have about the daystar setup..
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brandon1
I may have to think about that. Do you have the link to the daystar kit you have?
P.S. thanks to all who are helping me on this. DevinSixtySeven, you have once again been a majior help.
__________________ 2006 Chevy Silverado 4wd 5.3 4.10 gears - Dual flowmaster 40's out back exiting at the sides
- Blackbear 89/93 octane tune (good for 25hp and its amazing, no more torque management)
- LT headers 14.41 @98mph
A REAL truck.
How about the Bilstein shocks(that are adjustable 0~2") with a 1" top spacer. A typical 1" Daystar spacer(top of coilpack) gives you ~1.5" of lift. Then you can adjust the Bilstein shocks to give you the additional lift you want(within reason). I know there are some availability issues with the Bilstein, but that way you would have some adjustability with the system.
/Mike
__________________
2001 2WD Silver Tundra: 4x4 TRD springs, Daystar 1", Carson AAL, red/blue Bilsteins, 265/75 Revo's, IS kit(minus bumper) and rims(hand polished), RF851X amp, Alpine HU, JL 6.5"XR comps, Qlogic with JL 8W3V2 subs. 176k miles and counting......
2005 Silver Sienna LE with 12" Overhead DVD
How about the Bilstein shocks(that are adjustable 0~2") with a 1" top spacer. A typical 1" Daystar spacer(top of coilpack) gives you ~1.5" of lift. Then you can adjust the Bilstein shocks to give you the additional lift you want(within reason). I know there are some availability issues with the Bilstein, but that way you would have some adjustability with the system.
/Mike
thats a good option as well...the only down side might be the price of those bilstein adjustable shocks..i dont know what they run?..
__________________ 2006 Chevy Silverado 4wd 5.3 4.10 gears - Dual flowmaster 40's out back exiting at the sides
- Blackbear 89/93 octane tune (good for 25hp and its amazing, no more torque management)
- LT headers 14.41 @98mph
A REAL truck.
Ez-lift spacers vs. Toytech?
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