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Suspension & AxleTechnical discussions regarding alignment, stock and modified suspensions, lift kits, axles, hub conversions, gearing and steering.
This is a discussion thread titled "Tips on rear axle flex", within the Suspension & Axle forum, part of the Technical & Vehicle Assistance Forums category.
Hey Guys,
Question for ya. I was trying to get some info on what to do to my rear end to allow for more flex. I currently have 8.5" Fox Racing Shox and AAL's to match my front lift.
Basically, I want to allow for 2-3" more flex on the rear so that on rocks etc that i have the front up on the back side tire does not come off also as it did in the picture i have of my truck in my galley. The rear was off about 3-4" so i thought about removing the stop but then i figured i would end up screwing up my fenders when the wheels were creasing em from over play as well as possibly snapping/warping the leafs from overplay that they were not designed to handle.
Will the Deaver leafpacks allow for what i am looking for or do i need to look into another route.
Not sure if they make oversize shackles for the rear maybe? I can stand the rear to be lifted around another inch or so because i can crank my coilover up to full since i did the diff drop
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Current Mods: 3" Body Lift -- 3" Fabtech Coilover w/ AAL -- Unichip -- Flowmaster Dual exhaust w/o resonator -- K&N Aircharger kit -- Total Chaos UCA's -- 1" Diff Drop -- TC Steering Rack Bushings -- Pro Comp Alloys w/ Cooper Discoverer STT 315/75-16's -- 20% window tint -- FOX Emulsion shocks (Rear) -- Black Euro Tail lights -- Line-X Bedliner -- Superlift Truspeed Calibrator
our shackles are hung in tension...longer shackle drops the rear.
low prof bump stop is one way, aor4x4.com sells a very nice ubolt flip kit that comes with a low prof stop, two birds with one stone. otherwise just trim to the line on the stock bump stop.
pull the shocks and see if the springs will actually allow any more droop. keep an eye on that brake hose and the ebrake line...when i went to a longer spring i had to extend the hose, since at full droop on my springs it stretches quite a bit. havent got around to the ebrake line since im changing "it" to a "them" soon and dont want to waste time doing it twice, but a simple spring and trailing arm type deal off the side of the frame should give the ebrake line all the room it needs to move with the axle.
if you really can droop the axle farther (im pretty sure you can), run a 10" shock with an adapter for needle to eye...youll need to drill out the needle hole in the frame. ask jjc where he got his adapters, i have his old 7100 10s and they came with a great adapter...low profile, 3/4" bolt.
-sean
*edit* oh and the aal it isn't helping flex. i am certain i have more downtravel in the rear but wont be able to use it til the heavier axle and tires get under the truck...stiff springs and all that. i can twist it up and still have room to the stops until i put a load in the bed.
Will try that. I am actually running the adapter already with the fox shock i currently have installed. Guess i can look into selling the fox 8.5 i currently have now to replace it with a 10...do you reccommend any shocks? I like the fox ones alot but at almost 200 a piece i can do without :P
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Current Mods: 3" Body Lift -- 3" Fabtech Coilover w/ AAL -- Unichip -- Flowmaster Dual exhaust w/o resonator -- K&N Aircharger kit -- Total Chaos UCA's -- 1" Diff Drop -- TC Steering Rack Bushings -- Pro Comp Alloys w/ Cooper Discoverer STT 315/75-16's -- 20% window tint -- FOX Emulsion shocks (Rear) -- Black Euro Tail lights -- Line-X Bedliner -- Superlift Truspeed Calibrator
Also, Im not seeing that flip kit? Does it just link you to another site or what cause that is about all i am coming up with on aor4x4 never used there site
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Current Mods: 3" Body Lift -- 3" Fabtech Coilover w/ AAL -- Unichip -- Flowmaster Dual exhaust w/o resonator -- K&N Aircharger kit -- Total Chaos UCA's -- 1" Diff Drop -- TC Steering Rack Bushings -- Pro Comp Alloys w/ Cooper Discoverer STT 315/75-16's -- 20% window tint -- FOX Emulsion shocks (Rear) -- Black Euro Tail lights -- Line-X Bedliner -- Superlift Truspeed Calibrator
i am almost positive there is no way u can fit a 10 inch shock under there. right now i am runnin 8 inch sway aways with the stem to eye shock mount, and at full compression my shocks are toping about an inch before the bumps hit. measurments on the shocks 22.75" extended 14.75 compressed. whast limiting ur travel is shocks, think about reworkin the mounts, upper and or lower. I am going to relocate my lower mounts down about 2 inches.
So let me run this by you. Say i were to go with the AOR4x4 flip kit (if i can find it), and since the shock mounts have to be relocated anyway. Seems i could go with more of an angled setup to fit say a 11/12" Shock allowing more flex and possibly grinding off the bump stop and re-welding it on a bit higher.
Does this setup sound like it would be ideal for what i am looking for? I guess tomorrow i will get under the truck to make sure it is feasible with the current setup yet not causing too many problems? I know i would have to extend the lines also but im just brainstorming atm trying to get my thought process into this flex thing.
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Current Mods: 3" Body Lift -- 3" Fabtech Coilover w/ AAL -- Unichip -- Flowmaster Dual exhaust w/o resonator -- K&N Aircharger kit -- Total Chaos UCA's -- 1" Diff Drop -- TC Steering Rack Bushings -- Pro Comp Alloys w/ Cooper Discoverer STT 315/75-16's -- 20% window tint -- FOX Emulsion shocks (Rear) -- Black Euro Tail lights -- Line-X Bedliner -- Superlift Truspeed Calibrator
As far as shocks for the price go in the rear, the bilstein 7100's come in 10", 12", 14", and 16" I believe, so they should completely cover the clearence your looking for and the price is decent last I checked, only a little more than the 5100 series shock.
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2006 Tundra DC 4x4 Limited White TRD
major ouch on the rear crossbrace . maybe its just the angle but it looks like the right forward section was cut from the frame to fit that shock.
btw matt youre right about the 10" shock compressing before the bump stop hits. found that out last week. the shock needs to sit up just a little higher...
theres no need to carve up that Xbrace. the stock angle will work with both shocks fore or aft, just need to remove the cup for either front or back wherever youre placing the shocks, then pop the bed (six bolts) and run a piece of tub high and tight at the top of the frame rails with the shock mounts between the top of the rails and the bottom of the bed (cant tell from the photo if thats the case but its very similar). dunno what length shock will fit, but thats a much better solution than chopping crossmembers and it adds a crossmember as well. basically the same as in the photos but without the carnage. the small tube will not be as stiff as the Xbrace.
just need to get a welder now...got the garage to do all this...
My deavers will go into negative arch before the bump is completely pressed in....If I trim the bumpstop down any I would def. go into negative arch. Am I SOL?
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