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Suspension & AxleTechnical discussions regarding alignment, stock and modified suspensions, lift kits, axles, hub conversions, gearing and steering.
This is a discussion thread titled "Heavier Snowplows on TRD", within the Suspension & Axle forum, part of the Technical & Vehicle Assistance Forums category.
Front coil spring stiffness is greater and Bilstein shock valving differs on Tundra's TRD compared with regular SR5 for good reasons. Does anyone have personal knowledge why snowplow manufacturers recommend only the "wimpy snowplows", such as Fisher's Homesteader or Blizzard's 720 for the TRD when it can easily handle more than the 400 pounds allowed with the SR5?
Springs and shocks are part of a system of components, which alone do not dictate what the carrying capacities of a vehicle can safely haul/carry. More importantly are ball joints, tie rod ends, bushings, tranmission, transfer case, brakes, etc. A chain is only as strong as the leakest link so if the ball joints can't handle more than 400lbs on the front end, then that's the safe limit. I'm sure it can handle more weight but then you can't be sure how components will react or how long they'll last. Personally i'd plow w/a F350, K3500 or Ram 3500 professionally like most other plow drivers do but a Tundra's components aren't engineered to handle those stresses. Unless the components are engineered to handle certain stresses, you're gambling every time you use it.
If Toyota says the front end can safely handle 400lbs, then that's it max but if Toyota says it can handle 1000lbs, then that's it max. It's all in the engineering. I know a lot of people who plow and do heavy construction and they all have the 350/3500 series because they can handle the stresses.
I started plowing three years ago with my 2002 SR5 - non TRD. I installed a 600 pound Pathfinder Plow and quickly decided the front springs needed help. I added Timbrens to the front but hated the stiff jarring ride they gave. The second year I swapped out the shocks and springs for TRD springs and Blue/Yellow Bilsteins. That made all the difference in the world for my set up.
I have since had the ball joint recall done at the dealership, and the service manager told me there was absolutely no wear on the ball joints and the front end was in fine shape.
I recently had my local mechanic install the larger brake calipers and took the opportunity to ask him to examine the front end for any possible problems. He told me the front end was perfect and asked why I wanted to know. I told him that I was plowing with a heavy 7' blade on the front and I was concerned about the wear this was putting on the front end. He looked at me as though I was crazy and said "It's a Toyota, stop worrying".
I now have 96,000 miles and several huge snowstorms of plowing on the truck with no problems caused by plowing. A fellow plower borrowed my truck once (I trust him not to abuse it) to clean up a small lot. He is used to plowing with 3/4 ton trucks and was loathe to admit to me that my truck did a better job on that lot than the big trucks.
I am sure that plowing with my truck does cause the front end to wear faster than if I did not plow - just as it does to any make or model of truck.
Thanks Remerson for your input regarding spring and shock differences between regular and TRD Tundra. You proved it.
Even though Toyota won't officially talk about it for fear customers who appreciate the phenominal ride of the Tundra might "shy away", TRD spring rate is stiffer and Bilsteins dampen quicker. TRD can, without aftermarker modification, handle extra weight and stress, such as a regular 7 1/2 foot snowplow designed for a light duty half ton truck. Snowplow manufacturers, however, don't even go there.
I proved my arguement by having 3 of my big buddies climb the front end via bumper/hood of both models and bounce (not an easy task, I might ad). The regular Tundra dropped further by an inch or so.
... TRD spring rate is stiffer and Bilsteins dampen quicker. TRD can, without aftermarker modification, handle extra weight and stress, such as a regular 7 1/2 foot snowplow designed for a light duty half ton truck...
This is the info I was looking for!
Now I'll just focus my search for a 1st gen TRD Tundra so that I won't have to invest in new shocks, springs, or Timbren bumpstops....
A lighter plow sounds like a good idea for the longevity of the front end, however, the blade of the plow must be fairly heavy to do the job properly. Lighter blades made of poly and aluminum can be strong enough to plow without bending or warping, but they do not have enough weight to stay down and cut through the snow. Lighter blades may rise up over the snow pack like a sled rather than bite into the pack and push it to the side. The lighter blades will work fine when pushing light powder, but heavy wet snow will be a big problem and you can forget about breaking through any ice at the bottom of the pack.
Some of the lighter plows (Snoway for one) have a "down pressure" feature which will put some of the weight of the truck onto the cutting edge of the blade. These plows tend to be expensive, but most who have them rave about their many fine qualities.
Your plow will not be on the truck for extended periods of time - only when you are actively plowing. The newer plows out there connect and disconnect to the truck in under two minutes. Your plowing practices - speed, shifting before full stop, ramming drifts and windrows - will cause far more wear and damage to your rig than the weight of the plow.
Plow slowly and carefully and your Tundra should not give you any problems. Most plowing damage is done to trucks driven by people who do not care about them (employees for example).
I'm considering getting a plow myself for light residential plowing. After all the anti-Tundra for plowing posts out there got me worried, I figured this. If my in-law's 1990 S-10 Blazer has been problem free for 10+ years using a heavy old Western plow and fixed mount on all year round, then the Tundra should be fine. Sure the heavy duty pickups are more suited, but if you aren't plowing huge parking lots and only doing moderate stuff, my opinion is that there shouldn't be much to worry about.
The Meyers' weight is not a problem. You may have to find a good welder to fab a set of "ears" for your truck, I don't know if Meyers makes them for Tundras.
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