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Suspension & AxleTechnical discussions regarding alignment, stock and modified suspensions, lift kits, axles, hub conversions, gearing and steering.
This is a discussion thread titled "Donahoe Setup ?s", within the Suspension & Axle forum, part of the Technical & Vehicle Assistance Forums category.
I've searched through the forum, and still have some questions...and would like your opinion.
1-If you want the Camburg or TChaos upper arms, is there a different pair of D'hoes to get? Or will they be the same model#? Is it worth the extra $$$ if the majority of my driving will be on pavement?
2-What is the best rear setup to get? I'm looking to "level" the truck. I want to maximize the front end lift at the 2.5", so what would be the correct rear lift to be "level"? What are some pros/cons with doing an AAL vs a full new leaf pack?
3-Donahoe's website suggests using a 16x8 rim with a 4.5" offset, with 285/75/16s. If I want a 17" rim, can I still use a 4.5" offset, or does it change?
The size of the rim should'nt affect anything as long as the backspacing is correct. If your only going to be driving on pavement you might want to check out Bilstein's adjustable lifting shocks. They should be fine if your not looking to offroad. Also if you are going to get new wheels, if you go with a backspacing of 4" or less your probably not going to even need aftermarket UCA's. If all you want is to lift the front end and fit some bigger tires, 4" backspacing and Bilstein's adjustable shocks should do the job. Don't forget a diff drop kit if your going over 2"in the front.
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2006 Tundra DC 4x4 Limited White TRD
The size of the rim should'nt affect anything as long as the backspacing is correct. If your only going to be driving on pavement you might want to check out Bilstein's adjustable lifting shocks. They should be fine if your not looking to offroad. Also if you are going to get new wheels, if you go with a backspacing of 4" or less your probably not going to even need aftermarket UCA's. If all you want is to lift the front end and fit some bigger tires, 4" backspacing and Bilstein's adjustable shocks should do the job. Don't forget a diff drop kit if your going over 2"in the front.
How is the ride of the Bilstein's compared to the Donahoes? I had 'hoes on my tacoma, and really enjoyed the ride compared to s.a.w.s and spacer set-ups on other taco's that I rode in.
Those are the coilovers not the adjustable shocks. These are the shocks that I'm talking about Off Road Warehouse
From what I've heard they are close to stock feel. The Hoe's might be a little smoother but your going to pay close to $800 more. Like I said, if your lifting to offroad go with coilovers, if your lifting for street use the Bilstein's are going to save you a lot and ride nicer than spacers.
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2006 Tundra DC 4x4 Limited White TRD
Those are the coilovers not the adjustable shocks. These are the shocks that I'm talking about Off Road Warehouse
From what I've heard they are close to stock feel. The Hoe's might be a little smoother but your going to pay close to $800 more. Like I said, if your lifting to offroad go with coilovers, if your lifting for street use the Bilstein's are going to save you a lot and ride nicer than spacers.
So those are in addition to my stock coil? I could not find an installation guide on Bilstein's website...do they simply bolt-on? Or are there some brackets/tabs that I'd also need to purchase?
I had a question about these adjustable shocks earlier. Are they suitable for 04-06 DC's? Someone mentioned something about these DC's being too heavy for the adjustable shocks. If you have these shocks, would mild offroading be alright? Nothing hard-core.
I would call Bilstein with questions reguarding off-road capabilities. If you really want to off-road your safer going with coilovers to lift the front end. I'm almost positive that they will work with 05-06 DC's. They simply replace you current shocks with longer shocks that have a choice of mounting heights from stock to up to around +2.5".
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2006 Tundra DC 4x4 Limited White TRD
keep in mind these "less expensive" Bilstein pre-load adjustable shocks will require complete disassembly of the front shock system and a spring compressor to reinstall using the stock springs. Depending on how much you have to pay for that sort of work, it may be close to the same as installing the Bilstein BTS coilovers, which are a simple bolt-in. BTW, the Bilstein BTS coilovers can be had for about $650 or less if you shop around. The DC question is still open as far as I am concerned - I'm trying to make the same decision, and have not had time to call Bilstein directly about the BTS coilovers and the Double Cab. The Bilstein web site says that the DC application is limited to 1.5" of lift, but I'm not sure if that is with the system cranked up to the top position (and the weight of the DC causes less lift) or if they are specifying a lower adjustment point because of CV problems...
__________________ 2005 4WD Tundra Double Cab Limited
Salsa Red Pearl
Bilstein 5100 front & rears
TC Diff Drop
TC Steering Rack bushing kit
Deaver rear AALs
OEM 2005 Solara Navigation
VSE Bazooka Sub Peragon aluminum folding tonneau cover
Well, it's done...for now. I installed my Donahoes, set at 2.5"; put on my diff drop, and went with a 1" block in the rear. My new wheels are 16" Moto Metal 951b's, with Nitto Terra Grapplers 295/75/16 AND NO RUBBING at full crank. I know some people don't like the black rims, but these are freakin' sweet! I'll post pics later.
I had originally ordered the 1" AAL, but didn't realize that I had to break the stock leafpack collar and install a cheap-O new collar. So I went with the 1" block. One question: With only a 1" block, will I get some axle wrap? Or am I okay since it's only 1"?
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2005 DC Limited TRD - Donahoes @ 2.5", 1" Block, Jack-It Diff Drop, TuffSkin Bedliner, Flowmaster 50, Moto Metal 951b, 295/75/16 Nitto Terra Grapplers.
so you swapped the stock 17's for a set of 16's? Just out of curiosity, what was your rationale? (I know that different offsets are required to run the larger tires, but I've often wondered about this 17" vs. 16" question, particularly when it seems people are always trying to figure out how to stuff BIGGER wheels under their cars/trucks and not smaller ones... As to off road performance, in theory, you would get less sidewall flex out of a 17" wheel shod with an equivalent sized tire than on a 16", but then again, aired down, the 16" wheel would provide more sidewall flex, which can be a good thing when you are rock-crawling.... (though its a drag when you blow a bead! BTDT!)
__________________ 2005 4WD Tundra Double Cab Limited
Salsa Red Pearl
Bilstein 5100 front & rears
TC Diff Drop
TC Steering Rack bushing kit
Deaver rear AALs
OEM 2005 Solara Navigation
VSE Bazooka Sub Peragon aluminum folding tonneau cover
so you swapped the stock 17's for a set of 16's? Just out of curiosity, what was your rationale? (I know that different offsets are required to run the larger tires, but I've often wondered about this 17" vs. 16" question, particularly when it seems people are always trying to figure out how to stuff BIGGER wheels under their cars/trucks and not smaller ones... As to off road performance, in theory, you would get less sidewall flex out of a 17" wheel shod with an equivalent sized tire than on a 16", but then again, aired down, the 16" wheel would provide more sidewall flex, which can be a good thing when you are rock-crawling.... (though its a drag when you blow a bead! BTDT!)
My stock wheels were 16's, so I stuck with the 16's. If I'd had 17's, I'd probably have stuck with the 17's....
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2005 DC Limited TRD - Donahoes @ 2.5", 1" Block, Jack-It Diff Drop, TuffSkin Bedliner, Flowmaster 50, Moto Metal 951b, 295/75/16 Nitto Terra Grapplers.
Well, it's done...for now. I installed my Donahoes, set at 2.5"; put on my diff drop, and went with a 1" block in the rear. My new wheels are 16" Moto Metal 951b's, with Nitto Terra Grapplers 295/75/16 AND NO RUBBING at full crank. I know some people don't like the black rims, but these are freakin' sweet! I'll post pics later.
I had originally ordered the 1" AAL, but didn't realize that I had to break the stock leafpack collar and install a cheap-O new collar. So I went with the 1" block. One question: With only a 1" block, will I get some axle wrap? Or am I okay since it's only 1"?
Well, a sad update to my original excitement. Both of my boots spewed grease during my drive from Phoenix to Salt Lake City today. I installed the lift on Friday, checked the undercarriage last night and everything was clean. Checked it again when we got home tonight and both of the "inside/center" boots spun grease all over. And yes, I did install a diff drop
Do I need to replace the entire CV? Or is there an easier and less expensice fix for this. I need to read about this hoseclamp mod that I've seen somewhere on this site.
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2005 DC Limited TRD - Donahoes @ 2.5", 1" Block, Jack-It Diff Drop, TuffSkin Bedliner, Flowmaster 50, Moto Metal 951b, 295/75/16 Nitto Terra Grapplers.
Do I need to replace the entire CV?no Or is there an easier and less expensice fix for this. yes I need to read about this hoseclamp mod that I've seen somewhere on this site.definately do that, it'll be fine.
Went to my friends shop, and he took a look at the inner boots. They had lost about 1/3 of their grease and the factory clamps were loose. Five bucks in parts and a half hour later, he'd re-packed my grease and installed a tighter clamp....we'll see how that goes.
Didn't spin any grease out on the drive home, so that's a good start!
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2005 DC Limited TRD - Donahoes @ 2.5", 1" Block, Jack-It Diff Drop, TuffSkin Bedliner, Flowmaster 50, Moto Metal 951b, 295/75/16 Nitto Terra Grapplers.
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