CV's

[silverstorm]

I'm wanting to get the 6" rcd lift for my 2003 tundra, and run 35's. I'm still checkin out tires i want and any reinforcement and upgrades before i put the lift on and do any serious off roading. i know i'll need new rims (for correct backspace) and have to regear, but do i need to replace the cv's? if so what's a recommended place to get them from?

[dyogim]

There really isn't any aftermarket CV's for the tundra application. You'd have to go custom. If you plan on offroading and daily driving it, consider carrying spare CV's and maybe even the manual hub conversion.

[silverstorm]

cool, I'll be sure to pick some up...just in case. thanx

[DevinSixtySeven]

Originally Posted by dyogim

There really isn't any aftermarket CV's for the tundra application. You'd have to go custom. If you plan on offroading and daily driving it, consider carrying spare CV's and maybe even the manual hub conversion.

there are now, but they don't have the range of travel that the stock CV has. They can be obtained from ORS, along with the manual hub kit. If you ever plan on getting uniballs (the last step on the "serious" path before SAS), stick with the stock inner CV joints.

You said upgrade and reinforce for serious offroading, but you also said 6" lift. Lift kits are for making big tall trucks with big tall tires, and that's it. They're helpful if you want the look, or if you just don't want to mess with the tub. Personally, I'd rather mess with the tub than cut anything off the frame! But that's just me and my truck, YMMV. Lifts don't help offroad, travel and large tires are what get you up the trail, and lifts aren't the only way to fit a large tire.

If you're really serious about any sort of offroading, save your time and money on the RCD kit and instead spend it carving out the front wheel wells to properly fit a 35" tire. Even if you don't already own a welder, you'll spend less on a 110V welder (200+ used, 500ish new), a kickass welding helmet (50-200), a couple pieces of scrap for practice and the main event (maybe ten bucks), wheel adapters (one to one-fifty) and a tub of Herculiner (thirty bucks) than you will on the RCD (2K), and you'll have a more capable truck. The RCD holds up great offroad (look at how many people use it), but if you're going to be serious about it in the future, there's no need to take a 6" hit to your vertical CG position (AND cut your frame) in order to fit a 35" tire on the front of the truck (they already fit fine in the rear). The 6" hit only hurts you offroad, whether you're dune bashing or creepy crawling. Plus, with a CG only 2" higher than stock (vs 8"), it'll perform better on the road as well.

If you go that route (stock spindles), and I readily admit it isn't for everyone, also pick up a set of spindle gussets from Total Chaos. You'll be ready for coilovers and uniballs, and it'll still be less money than the RCD...and more performance. You'll corner better, stop faster, and be more stable offroad with no lift and any tire size than you will with a 6" lift regardless your tire size unless they're stupidly huge and/or watered.

-Sean

[silverstorm]

thanks for the info this does sound much less expensive especially if I borrowed the suppies, but I wouldn't be able to do the welding myself and I had thought about this in the past, and thought maybe later on with more money i could do both and fit even bigger tires...what would your opinion be on this? good or bad?

[DevinSixtySeven]

Originally Posted by DevinSixtySeven

there are now, but they don't have the range of travel that the stock CV has. They can be obtained from ORS, along with the manual hub kit. If you ever plan on getting uniballs (the last step on the "serious" path before SAS), stick with the stock inner CV joints.

Yeah, yeah, quoting myself, whatever. Had someone ask a question on this and wanted to explain better.

The kit can be purchased with either CV joint. The new joint is just an option, not a requirement. I've got a few questions in, I'll post back when I get the full scoop .

-Sean

[DevinSixtySeven]

Originally Posted by silverstorm

thanks for the info this does sound much less expensive especially if I borrowed the supplies, but I wouldn't be able to do the welding myself and I had thought about this in the past, and thought maybe later on with more money i could do both and fit even bigger tires...what would your opinion be on this? good or bad?

Personally I would not try and do both unless I were spending all my time on the beach. I'm sketched out enough as it is about running a 37 on even upgraded IFS parts--stronger axles, reinforced spindles, uniballs and hopefully stronger inner CVs if they'll work out (more on that later)--and a massive locked rear axle upgrade. In a "difficult" rated offroad situation, I'd rather run a smaller tire (let the drivetrain be overbuilt) with a ton of flex and a low center of gravity than any combination of lifts (vs trimming) to fit a larger tire. If I spent all my time in the surf, sure, I'd run a massive tire on the stock drivetrain (regeared) and run around on flat ground at 6psi...but imho that's not realistic for a trail rig.

Got a buddy who can weld? Better yet, do you have an hour or so every evening to practice on scrap? Scrap is cheap, and practice time is free when you have your own equipment. I got in on a community college MIG course for about 200 bucks, all you need is the basics and then there are plenty of forums and instructional aids everywhere. MIG is easy enough honestly if you just get (download) the instruction/user manual for most welding rigs, it shows you basic welding technique...then practice practice practice.

-Sean