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Suspension & AxleTechnical discussions regarding alignment, stock and modified suspensions, lift kits, axles, hub conversions, gearing and steering.
This is a discussion thread titled "3" lift questions", within the Suspension & Axle forum, part of the Technical & Vehicle Assistance Forums category.
Hey guys, I just got a 00' Tundra access cab 4x4, and I am looking at a lift from TUNDRA LIFT part # TUN 275AD. I hear that any lift over 2" requires that I drop the front differential. This kit comes with what looks like 2 thick washers and 2 bolts for the diff drop. Is that all it needs? Can I just stack some grade 8 washers to that thickness and save the money? Has anyone had any trouble with a kit similar to this? Also, I am looking at the "Black Daytona" wheels from Black Steel Wheels. I'm interested in the 15"x10" with 4" back spacing. I'm looking for a 33' or 285 size tire that is between 10" and 12.5" wide for these wheels. Will I have any trouble with clearance? I have a set of black bushwhacker fender flares and I want to get the right tire/wheel combination that will fill the fenders out to the sides of the flares. Any suggestions on tire/wheel combinations? The truck is red and I'm tinting the windows, getting a black toolbox, black grille, and some type of black bumpers when I find the right ones, as well as a CB with dual black antennas to keep with the red and black theme. Can anyone help me?
Can I just stack some grade 8 washers to that thickness and save the money?
Not a good plan.
For one thing, you need longer bolts; just sticking some washers in there won't be enough. You need bolts that are an inch longer. Second, when you lower the diff, you also have to lower the trailing end of the skid plate because the bolts that hold in on will be too short also after the diff is dropped.
A diff drop kit will only set you back maybe $30-$35. Make sure you get one that includes longer bolts for the skid pan.
There's two ways to go about this: You can spend the money now and do it right, or you can spend the money later to do it over. Me? I'd rather do it right the first time.
All a man really needs for happiness in this world is a good woman, a faithful dog, and a big-a$$ed set of tires on his truck.
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Ride: 2001 Tundra SR5, 4WD, The Lean Mean Green Machine, Lift, Front: Bilstein 5100 Adjustable Shocks w/ Total Chaos Diff Drop, Lift, Rear: 1" Wheeler's Blocks, Wheels: Chromed Factory 4Runner Rims, 17", Tires: Bridgestone Revos, 285/70R-17, Performance: Unichip, Borla Exhaust, Optima Yellow-top Battery, Flux Capacitor, Interior: Dog Hair on Back Seat, Coffee Stains on Console, Bling: Ivan Stewart TRD Grille, Westin Nerf Bars, Clear Corners & Eurotails, Debadged, Audio: Kenwood DDX512 Head Unit, Audiovox ACA200W Rear-view camera, Audiovox XM Express Sattelite Radio Receiver, Shark Fin Antenna, Other: Viair 450C compressor, 2.5 Gallon air tank, Kleinn Pro Series 4-Trumpet air horns, Eye Candy: Hottie Wife in Passenger Seat, Security System: One Very Large Dog
Hey guys, I just got a 00' Tundra access cab 4x4, and I am looking at a lift from TUNDRA LIFT part # TUN 275AD. I hear that any lift over 2" requires that I drop the front differential. This kit comes with what looks like 2 thick washers and 2 bolts for the diff drop. Is that all it needs? Can I just stack some grade 8 washers to that thickness and save the money? Has anyone had any trouble with a kit similar to this? Also, I am looking at the "Black Daytona" wheels from Black Steel Wheels. I'm interested in the 15"x10" with 4" back spacing. I'm looking for a 33' or 285 size tire that is between 10" and 12.5" wide for these wheels. Will I have any trouble with clearance? I have a set of black bushwhacker fender flares and I want to get the right tire/wheel combination that will fill the fenders out to the sides of the flares. Any suggestions on tire/wheel combinations? The truck is red and I'm tinting the windows, getting a black toolbox, black grille, and some type of black bumpers when I find the right ones, as well as a CB with dual black antennas to keep with the red and black theme. Can anyone help me?
and 15" wheels won't fit on a tundra
__________________ 2006 Chevy Silverado 4wd 5.3 4.10 gears - Dual flowmaster 40's out back exiting at the sides
- Blackbear 89/93 octane tune (good for 25hp and its amazing, no more torque management)
- LT headers 14.41 @98mph
A REAL truck.
I don't know how much extension your front factory shocks have but if you get as much lift as advertized then on maximum down travel your upper control arm will probably come in contact with the coil spring. I have read about this happening in another thread so you might want to search for it. I have 2.5" bilsteins on the front of mine and when the front is off the ground the upper control arms come about 1/2" from my coil springs and the only reason I think it stops there is because my shocks will not extend any further. Just makes me think that without the right shocks to limit the down travel you will have a problem and experience the "clunking" noise when you go over speed bumps and such. The only other option I think is UCA's but thats too expensive imo.
Alright, thanks. So I'm going with the 3" lift with diff drop and possibly a different set of struts, and 16" wheels. Will a 4" wheel backspacing and 12.5" wide tires cause any clearance problems? If not, then I want to get to ordering the parts so I go play in the mud.
Alright, thanks. So I'm going with the 3" lift with diff drop and possibly a different set of struts, and 16" wheels. Will a 4" wheel backspacing and 12.5" wide tires cause any clearance problems? If not, then I want to get to ordering the parts so I go play in the mud.
check out the Kartek 930 cv boots instead of new struts. the stockers are weak and will crack after time. These replace your inner cv boots.
__________________ 2006 Chevy Silverado 4wd 5.3 4.10 gears - Dual flowmaster 40's out back exiting at the sides
- Blackbear 89/93 octane tune (good for 25hp and its amazing, no more torque management)
- LT headers 14.41 @98mph
A REAL truck.
I am suprised no one is telling you not to buy that lift. That is just like the ready lift kit. You should buy some Toytecs or some real coilovers. I don't know if he still has them but menber mtcheral lives in BR and he took a set of toytecs off his Tundra when he changed to coilovers.
__________________ 1998 Chevy Tahoe 2005 Toyota Sequoia 1993 Acura Integra 1995 Ford F250
yeah- you might want to look into this one more. Can't tell whether it mounts in or out of coilpack, but either way looks like it is going to screw up your front end or at least make it ride like sh!t. If you really have to go with spacers at 3" toytec might be the best option- it at least splits the spacers to some inside and some outside so you get the best (and worst) of both worlds.
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2005 4wd TRD Doublecab- Silver Sky Metallic
2.0" SAW coilovers at 3" with rear 1" AAL, 285/75/16 BFG AT's on MT Classic II's, Pioneer Premier HU with XM, Rhinoliner, UWS aluminum truck box, Husky liners
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3" lift questions
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