Lithium or Molybdenum grease?

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Thread: Lithium or Molybdenum grease?

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    Question Lithium or Molybdenum grease?

    In the manual for my 2003 Tundra it says to use Lithium base chassis grease for the propeller shaft u joints and Molybdenum Disulfide for the Double Cardan joint. Can I use the Molybdenum for all the fittings? It's a better grease isn't it? Thanks

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    Quote Originally Posted by SigShooter
    In the manual for my 2003 Tundra it says to use Lithium base chassis grease for the propeller shaft u joints and Molybdenum Disulfide for the Double Cardan joint. Can I use the Molybdenum for all the fittings? It's a better grease isn't it? Thanks
    I personally use Amsoil Synthetic Moly on everything (for years) and I've never had an issue. However, there are times when moly can cause an issue with bearings if it spins out and builds up (because it's so hard). I've never seen it personally, but I have heard of it. I stick to Amsoil, Redline, or Mobile 1 and have never had a grease issue.

    I run it though and I've never had to replace a U-joint. That includes a 30 year old Dodge van with who knows how many miles. The odometer was broken for a while but it's got to have over 250,000 miles on it.

    Alan

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    KLS
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    Lithium is the base material in the grease, moly is an additive in the grease, and synthetic tells about the type of oil held in the base.

    The base is the thickener. Lithium or lithium complex is probably the most popular grease base material. The base is something like a sponge. It holds oil in its pores, and the oil does the lubricating. The oil can be conventional or synthetic. Molybdenum disulfide is a dark gray powder that is very hard and very slippery. It is one possible additive to grease, and moly is excellent for slow moving, heavily loaded points...I use moly-additized grease on the sliding spline on the driveshaft.

    So, grease can be lithium base, contain synthetic or conventional oil, with or without moly.

    Top quality lithium base moly grease is fine everywhere. Less than top quality moly can contain abrasive particles that can damage needle, ball, or roller bearings.


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    Quote Originally Posted by KLS
    Lithium is the base material in the grease, moly is an additive in the grease, and synthetic tells about the type of oil held in the base.

    Ken
    You know, one odd thing that I've found with synthetic greases that I've never had happen with conventional is that they have a funny way of separating over time if you leave them in a gun. I've had it happen with Amsoil, Redline, and Mobile one. If you leave them alone in the gun long enough in a hot garage fluid definitely starts to drain out of the gun.

    I often end up throwing away the end of the tube before I use all the grease because the oil drained out of the base and left it thicker than I liked. It might still be fine but I'd rather be safe than sorry. But I go through a tube of grease over several years though. I really don't use much of it at all. I wish I could get a mini tube.

    alan

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    Quote Originally Posted by KLS
    Top quality lithium base moly grease is fine everywhere. Less than top quality moly can contain abrasive particles that can damage needle, ball, or roller bearings.

    Ken
    So what brands would you recommend, Mobil 1, Amsoil etc I would assume would be good? I dont ever remember seeing any Mobil 1 being sold in tubes to fit a grease gun, at least not at any auto parts. Would a "commonly" sold brand be ok?
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    I plan on doing my own maintenance from now on and since im not taking it anywhere i need to lube the chassis. I know where to lube it all at. and which greases to use but when i went to NAPA to buy grease im not sure if i got the right stuff.

    I got some of the valvoline SYN POWER which is moly-fortified. I suppose this will do for those moly lube points but they didnt have anything that simply said. Lithium based chassis lube so i bought what i thought was the closest thing which is Valvolines "Cerulean" which as it says is a "multipurpose lithium complex grease formula" Like that tells me alot.
    Cerulean

    Anyhow its Blue so can anyone tell me if this is the right stuff? I read that some people are using this syn power stuff for all lube points while others disagree.

    And how much grease to i pump in there? One pump, 3-5, 30? Till it comes out the seals?


    And just my luck sears was sold out of both grease guns AND needle adapters.

    Thanks for the help


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    i use that same synpower stuff...it's cheap and works on everything, and i do mean everything. it's like snot for my truck.

    i have noticed tho like alan said, you gotta stir it a little once in a while. i buy the cans, not the gun, dunno how youd stir a tube.

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    I agree that the biggest problem is trying to find the right grease in an auto parts store. Just try to find some good old "lithium based chassis grease" or "moly fortified" anything. Maybe I'm not looking in the right spots, but it sure is frustrating. Same thing with gear lube. I gave up trying to find 75W-90 in any auto parts store, much less the straight 90W that the owners manual calls out for the rear diff. If anyone has had better luck, please shed some light on a good place to buy grease and gear lube.

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    Stores that are inclined towards farm/ranch type goods are usually a excellent place to look for a variety of lubricants. They may not be heavily stocked in synthetic lubes, except for automotive use (Fleet Farm here isn't) but that's where I've found a huge variety of stuff. Tractor Supply and others in your different areas may have what you want.

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