Front Brakes

[justinb306]

What is the trick to get all four pistons in on the front brakes caliper when changing the front brake pads?

[NATEDAWG3256]

I haven't had to have mine off yet, but i would assume u would put the old brake pad on the 4 pistons and use a C clamp to compress the pistons.

[05Moose]

I've always used very large channel locks. Is this just a problem with the 4 pistons rather than 2? Haven't had to change mine yet.

[justinb306]

Yes. Just having trouble with the other ones trying to pop back out when the others are pressed in.

[Splicer]

I simply use large screwdrivers to pry between the pads and rotors. This will apply pressure to both sets of pistons. The fluid is forced back into the master cylinder, so you may need to remove some fluid to make room. If the MC gets too full, it could be like a hydro-lock and prevent more from entering.

[L R H]

Originally Posted by justinb306

Yes. Just having trouble with the other ones trying to pop back out when the others are pressed in.

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Open the bleeder, and the other pistons popping back out will stop due to the fluid can take the path of least resistance out the bleeder instead of back up into the M/cyl. Another thing; most manufactureres reccomend you NEVER force fluid back into the M/cyl, as it sometimes can damage anti-lock components. Make that VERY expensive anti-lock components.

[Jasonoff]

Something like this would be handy

[bigbadktm]

i used a c clamp to puch one side in, put the caliper back on the rotor, used needle nosed pliers to wedge the pistons in place between the pad and pistons, then squeezed the other side back in. but damn i wish i had thought to open the bleeder. but i also flushed the whole system and went with synthetic. that was on my tundra. now im working on my wifes d-cab tacoma that the rotors warped on and i cant seem to find new rotors locally to save my life.

[05Moose]

Originally Posted by L R H

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Open the bleeder, and the other pistons popping back out will stop due to the fluid can take the path of least resistance out the bleeder instead of back up into the M/cyl. Another thing; most manufactureres reccomend you NEVER force fluid back into the M/cyl, as it sometimes can damage anti-lock components. Make that VERY expensive anti-lock components.

Just gotta says thanks for the recommendation and warning.

I'd never thought of opening the bleeder (duh!). I got the wear indicator on the front pads squealing on Saturday (at 55K miles). Changed the front pads yesterday. It was a breeze opening the bleeder valve...never been easier especially with the easy pad replacement design. to Toyota on this design!

[L R H]

I had in the past just used the large Channel lock's to push fluid back into the m/cyl, after using a turkey baster to remove some of the fluid to prevent overflow, but now I use a small piece of tubing into a container to prevent a mess and open the bleeder. I HAVE pushed fluid back into the m/cyl on an antilock equipped vehicle before without any problems, but why take a chance; and with dual and quad pistons it is much easier..........

EDIT: If you use a hose and keep the bleeder @ 12:00 o'clock, you will not need to bleed the brakes due to letting air in the system, just put the caliper back on the vehicle in the proper position and the bleeder will be in the right spot.

[tanner27]

Before I removed the calipers or brackets on my other vehicles, I used a C-clamp as well to compress the pistons, then I removed the bolts. I never had to bleed the brakes on those cars. If I was too quick brake fl puked out of the resevoir.