Question A/C Question, compare to another Tacoma owner hopefully

[kansas8877]

I have had an issue for a while (or at least I think it is an issue) where my A/C will blow ICE COLD for a few seconds, then warm up, then blow cold again. This happens about every 15-20 seconds once the truck has been running for 5-10 minutes (or less). I noticed this EXACT same time interval when looking at the A/C compressor clutch while the truck is idling, being that the clutch engages and disengages every 15 seconds or so consistently. This actually results in the cab not being cooled very well on hot days (mid 80s and up it seems to get a little worse)

The dealer looked at it and told me it is fine, except I am sure they just tested the temp out of the vents when it was cold and assumed it to be fine. The clutch cycling so quickly does not seem right to me, even at an idle. I have looked at several other vehicles and none of them do this but I have not had access to another tacoma to check it.

Would someone out there with a 2005 or newer V6 tacoma be able to check their AC clutch while idling and see if it does the same thing?

This would be very helpful in figuring out my problem.

Thank you

[the.phantom]

i'm not a a/c expert !

but a few questions
1. what happens when the fan is on hi?
2. do you have a cabin air filter in that year? if so checked and or cleaned replaced?
3. has anyone checked compressor fluid level? was called freon

my 07 has no problems and doesn't cycle that much

and you are testing it with what kid of outside temps?
and engine up to temp and what happens when driving?

why i ask is i have owned several cars/trucks over the years and when low on freon it would cycle just like that ;-D or not engage the clutch at all if real low ( it has to see pressure in the line to turn on )

[08TacomaKRV]

I had a 97 Subaru Impreza that did this same thing whenever it needed charged. Once it was charged up things worked fine. It could be that or the entire compressor is bad.

Originally Posted by kansas8877

I have had an issue for a while (or at least I think it is an issue) where my A/C will blow ICE COLD for a few seconds, then warm up, then blow cold again. This happens about every 15-20 seconds once the truck has been running for 5-10 minutes (or less). I noticed this EXACT same time interval when looking at the A/C compressor clutch while the truck is idling, being that the clutch engages and disengages every 15 seconds or so consistently. This actually results in the cab not being cooled very well on hot days (mid 80s and up it seems to get a little worse)

The dealer looked at it and told me it is fine, except I am sure they just tested the temp out of the vents when it was cold and assumed it to be fine. The clutch cycling so quickly does not seem right to me, even at an idle. I have looked at several other vehicles and none of them do this but I have not had access to another tacoma to check it.

Would someone out there with a 2005 or newer V6 tacoma be able to check their AC clutch while idling and see if it does the same thing?

This would be very helpful in figuring out my problem.

Thank you

[kathyricks]

Put a thermometer in the center dash vent and document the problem yourself. With the AC controls set for maximum cooling, the temp of the air coming out of the center vent should be 38-44 degrees continuously REGARDLESS of all other variables (e.g. outside temperatures, compressor cycling, driving situation, etc)

If you get readings of 40 degrees one minute and 50 - 60 degrees the next minute and then back to 40 degrees then something is faulty with your AC system. If the dealer refuses to acknowledge the fault, take photos of the temperature readings and show them to the dealer service manager and dealership manager if necessary.

For 30 years ALL Toyota AC systems have been capable of maintaining a narrow range of cold temps (around 35-44 degrees) REGARDLESS of all other variables. If push comes to shove you can always rent a late model Tacoma to document the AC system maintains a narrow range of cold temps.

[05Moose]

Hopefully this thread will shed some light for you.

A/C Tech Question

[TEFye]

You're low on freon, which causes the low side pressure to drop soon after the compressor kicks on. When the low side pressure drops below a preset value, it trips a cutoff switch to the compressor. Soon after the compressor quits, the low side pressure and high side pressure equalize and with the rise in low side pressure, engages the compressor again. You need to find a different Toyota dealer!!

[kansas8877]

Thanks for all of the replies! The freon is actually OK, i've had that covered twice. The compressor is on/off every 20 seconds no matter what. I decided to kick the idle up to 2000 rpm to replicate driving and it still happens. I will probably just have someone else look at it. I have been using a dash thermometer (non digital) but I know the temp goes up because I can feel it and the gage also fogs over completey (again, religously every 20 seconds). How can the dealer say that it is "working as designed"?

[kathyricks]

You have to adjust your thinking from: "How can the dealer say that it is "working as designed"? to HOW CAN I DEMONSTRATE to the dealer say that it is NOT "working as designed"?

I know it doesn't sound fair to shift the burden of proof onto you, but the only other alternative is to find another Toyota dealer or Toyota specialty shop who is more competent.

[L R H]

If the refrigerant charge is correct, other factors include pressure switch(s) and the thermister. With a gauge set hooked up; monitor low side to see if it drops very low, or even into a vacuum @ moment of cycle to off, as there could be a restriction. Check high side @ cycle off to determine if a high side pressure switch is cycling to open (off) prematurely. The thermister could also be cycling off an otherwise correctly operating system. I do not know Toyota's test procedure other than it should prevent freeze up of evap core.

Another question to tech's on late model Toyota's; since the drier is made into the condenser side tank, which makes if relatively expensive to replace in both parts and labor, are they actually getting replaced when they have been opened/exposed long enough to be saturated?; and does Toyota recommend replacement during routine service such as to replace a defective hose assy, or replacing a compressor that had a failure not related to the sealed refrigerant system, like a broken mounting ear, damaged threads, etc?

[surfsupl]

Originally Posted by kansas8877

I have had an issue for a while (or at least I think it is an issue) where my A/C will blow ICE COLD for a few seconds, then warm up, then blow cold again. This happens about every 15-20 seconds once the truck has been running for 5-10 minutes (or less). I noticed this EXACT same time interval when looking at the A/C compressor clutch while the truck is idling, being that the clutch engages and disengages every 15 seconds or so consistently. This actually results in the cab not being cooled very well on hot days (mid 80s and up it seems to get a little worse)

The dealer looked at it and told me it is fine, except I am sure they just tested the temp out of the vents when it was cold and assumed it to be fine. The clutch cycling so quickly does not seem right to me, even at an idle. I have looked at several other vehicles and none of them do this but I have not had access to another tacoma to check it.

Would someone out there with a 2005 or newer V6 tacoma be able to check their AC clutch while idling and see if it does the same thing?

This would be very helpful in figuring out my problem.

Thank you

My truck does the exact same thing! It was low on 134a and charged it up. It worked for a week maybe but now its back to the same thing. Also I have noticed that when I have a full tank my a/c blows cooler and when I am at 1/2 tank it blows warmer. WTF?

[L R H]

Originally Posted by surfsupl;. WTF? :confused:[/SIZE

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I wholeheartedly agree..........

[dickinsonj]

The AC's on all my Toyota's have always been perfect - but don't forget this is not a Toyota AC unit in our trucks - this is GM/Delco crap!

[toddburt321]

You said it works on intervals every 15-20 secs. Has the charge actually been measured? The new systems need to have the right amount of refrigerant and also cannot be overcharged.
No it's not normal operation, the dealer is incorrect on this. Mine freezes my a** off on a hot day let alone a warm one with the recirc off. Take it to another dealer and have it looked at. I don't the spec on charge requirement. Either way it should not cycle that frequently on a warm day.

[kansas8877]

I had another dealer look at it and it was a bit overcharged, they fixed that but the problem is still there. They also said it was working correctly. I don't get it. I am going to sell the truck.

[rs6654]

I keep a round dial cooking thermometer in my left AC vent all the time.


I have for years as I like to see what it's doing and it gives me a baseline to judge by if I think it's not working right.

With the AC on recirc it blows between 45 and 50F no matter how hot it is outside. And that's in the searing heat and humidity of central Florida.

Don't know what my clutch is doing but quick cycling is a symptom of low refrigerant. Although I suppose it also may be caused by high head pressure too.

I'm not a prefessional a/c tech but I have sucessfully worked on many over the years and coverted a couple of R12's to R134.