2005 Tacoma brake pad removal instructions? - Toyota Tundra Forums : Tundra Solutions Forum

TDL · #1 (**permalink**) 08-13-2009, 12:35 AM

I couldn't find any instructions using the search feature. Anyone know of any? Thanks in advance.

05Moose · #2 (**permalink**) 08-14-2009, 09:11 PM

Easy as pie. As far as the method to change the front pads, this is the best design I've ever seen. There are two pins that run through the calipers and brake pads on the outside of the rotor cross-wise. Cotter-type pin keeps them from sliding out. This all assumes you don't need to turn the rotors (I didn't need to because they were as smooth as could be and I've never had any pulsing in the brake pedal).

1. Remove the wheel (we'll assume you've jacked up the vehicle first

).

2. Remove the pressure clip attached over the caliper/pad pins.

3. Remove the cotter-type pins hooked onto the ends of the caliper/pad pins running cross-wise through the pads and calipers. Use a pair of pliers to pull them off.

4. Slide out the two caliper/pad pins.

5. Slide out the front brake pads.

6. Open the bleeder valve a little (using a 10mm wrench) and use channel locks to press the pistons back in. Put a container or something under the bleeder valve to catch the fluid. Then close the bleeders once the pistons are pushed back in.

Don't know what method you used in the past to push the pistons back in, but one thing to remember with ABS is not to force the brake fluid back. You need to open the bleeder for that reason and because there are 4 pistons (otherwise pushing one piston in forces the other out and it's bad on the ABS unit).

7. Slide in the new pads. Replace the caliper/pad pins and the pressure pin.

8. Open the bleeder valve again to ensure there's no air in there.

9. Replace any brake fluid lost in the reservoir.

10. Do the other side.

11. Sit back and enjoy the money you saved by doing it yourself...ahhhhh.

Beware, it'll take you longer to jack up the truck and remove the wheel than it will to change the pads.

Glk21c · #3 (**permalink**) 09-04-2009, 07:02 AM

One more thing. I would assume the pads will come with a small tube/package of pad lube or graphite shims??. Use it on the backs of the pads. Don't, and you'll be having all kinds of squeaking issues.

Good luck

the.phantom · #4 (**permalink**) 09-04-2009, 06:22 PM

think first instruction\

top off master cylinder, then almost no chance of getting air in the lines

since the pads are warn the fluid should be a bit low unless you top it off

briq4 · #5 (**permalink**) 09-10-2009, 10:52 AM

Just curious why would you open the bleeder when you are pressisng the pison back into the caliper? Is this something special for toyota's? I've only ever had Honda's and never have opened the bleeder valve. Why go through then having to bleed the system to be sure no air got in when you just leave them closed? My 93 accord I did the brakes this way for the 330,000 miles that I owned the vehicle with no problems (had ABS as well). Same with my civic, mom's accord, aunt's chevy malibu etc. The abs system only pumps when there is a demand, i.e. wheel slip, otherwise isn't it a straight forward hyrdraulic system?

05Moose · #6 (**permalink**) 09-10-2009, 01:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by briq4

Just curious why would you open the bleeder when you are pressisng the pison back into the caliper? Is this something special for toyota's? I've only ever had Honda's and never have opened the bleeder valve. Why go through then having to bleed the system to be sure no air got in when you just leave them closed? My 93 accord I did the brakes this way for the 330,000 miles that I owned the vehicle with no problems (had ABS as well). Same with my civic, mom's accord, aunt's chevy malibu etc. The abs system only pumps when there is a demand, i.e. wheel slip, otherwise isn't it a straight forward hyrdraulic system?

2 reasons:

1. May cause damage to ABS system (if you're not worried about it, then oh well).

2. There are 4 pistons per caliper. Following path of least resistance, pushing one in only serves to push the other out. The simplest, fastest way around this is to open the bleeder (and the way they're designed with the bleeder on top and not removing the caliper, this lets any air bubbles flow up and out the bleeder valve without the need for anyone to push the brake pedal).

briq4 · #7 (**permalink**) 09-10-2009, 04:51 PM

See learn something new every day! I didn't know our trucks had 4 pistons. So your saying if you put the brake pad over two of them, and used a clamp to push them back in the other two would push out?

05Moose · #8 (**permalink**) 09-10-2009, 05:19 PM

Didn't try that based on the warnings from others on the forums regarding ABS. And I found it much easier to loosen the bleeder valve. Then they go in like butter. I don't know what kind of force would be required to lay something across both pistons and force them both back in at the same time. I'm assuming that wouldn't affect the 2 pistons on the other side of the caliper.

So if you try it, let us know how it goes.

briq4 · #9 (**permalink**) 09-11-2009, 04:40 PM

I'm not so worried about the ABS unit, I'm more concerned with pushing in the two and then having the opposite two popping out! OH and I use the old brake pad over the piston to push the piston back in (single piston on all of the passanger cars that I have ever done) makes it so your not pushing on just one part of the piston, and not putting unecessary force on just one side of the piston. Makes the pressure spread out over the whole piston rather than just on an edge.