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TacomaGeneral discussion forum for the 2005 and later Toyota Tacoma.
This is a discussion thread titled "Locker mod?", within the Tacoma forum, part of the Truck Forums category.
Back to the drawing board...
A)how does the ECU know 4LO is engaged, specifically what pins on what connectors get what voltage
It reads the signal (ground) from the 4LO indicator switch (primarily used to disable VSC) AND the actual position from the actuator assembly, AND the ADD limit switch (primarily used to disengage the actuator after a succesful shift). These are signals used primarily for thee ADD shift mechanism. 3 signals for 3 different purposes. I'd have to look closely to figure out what pin numbers. Not all that important when you see my responce to your next question.
Quote:
Originally Posted by tacosupreme
B)how can we send false signals to those pins without disrupting normal operation
A+B=2HI Muddin'
YOU CAN'T DO IT WITHOUT DISRUPTING NORMAL OPERATION. False signals to the various pins doesn't work (I thought we established this). If you try the 4WD won't work correctly either, which in turn screws up the e-locker too. The computer is different than the '04s! The only way to isolate the problem is to isolate a new control unit from the current 4WD ECU (just like the '04 has two separate units).
You have 3 choices: 1) Wire the e-locker actuator to a manual switch using the diagram provided. (completely bypassing any computer, & completely removing the ability to control/engage/disengage any potential safety features) 2) Wire in an ADDITIONAL 4WD computer from an 05 prerunner OR the Diff-lock ECU from an '04 or earlier (so you have two control units just like the '04 setup) 3) Somehow rewire the internal circuit board, to get it to do what you want. (IF it is EVEN possible... It's not feasable for the majority of us).
Those are your options. Pick one or forget about it! Sorry...
Quote:
Originally Posted by tacosupreme
Again, I would like to have a single switch that disables VSC, ABS, and allows the locker to engage.
Then #2 or #3 are your only options.
(and your on your own for #3... you're the chip repair/design guy)
Just had a thought. Why re-invent the wheel? Has anyone noticed that when you take the truck out of 4wd with the e-locker locked, it takes 2-3 seconds for the e-locker to disengage? Why not disrupt the signal from the e-locker so it stays locked? The ECU will keep trying and then you can switch the e-locker back on when your done and the ECU will have it's way.
Has anyone noticed that when you take the truck out of 4wd with the e-locker locked, it takes 2-3 seconds for the e-locker to disengage?
That is probably more mechanical than electrical.
In other words the actuator is probably already in the open (unlocked) position, it's probably taking a few seconds for the actual locker gear or mechanism to pull out of the closed (locked) position.
Fair enough, so when it's still in 4 wheel low, hit the switch and disable the e-locker (no use for it anyway), then hit the switch when you want to turn it off. Bingo, we have ourselves a winner.
ok so let me wrap my mind around this idea of yours, you want to put it in 4lo, engage the locker with the factory switch, somehow keep it locked but put it back in 2hi? I think poopersport is being a negative nancy. It is possible, and damn it I am going to figure out how to do it if I have to map every circuit with a multimeter and every circuit board with an O-scope. It's gotta be less complicated than calibrating a computer to guide a missile to a target you can't see, and I do that all the time, so I can do this. Just might take me a while.
Yeah, and to think we were just going to share this idea with nancy for free and all.
As for the idea, the rear-locker can't unlock itself if it can't unlock itself. The ECU will just wait until communication is restore to the locker. It's not the fastest way to engage the locker, but it would work and it should still maintain most of the factory functionality. But then again, I dont know how to read circuit diagrams so maybe it's not as simple as I think. Either a switch somewhere to turn off the actuator or a switch at the ECU that is supposed to signal the locker. Those are my thoughts.
Well the problem with your idea is getting it out of 4lo when locked. Sometimes it is hard to get back into to 2hi without monkeying with the locker, but I will look into it anyway. As for bumper missiles, the backblast from the launch would damage the truck so we have to mount them on the roof. Check with Yakima or Thule for roof mount missile launchers, or check out the shoulder fired version here http://www.lockheedmartin.com/data/assets/2959.mpeg
You mean that it has problems going from 4hi to 2hi when the locker is engaged? Curious, why would it matter? Negative Nancy can speak now, but only with constructive criticism. No more emoticons with middle fingers.
You mean that it has problems going from 4hi to 2hi when the locker is engaged? Curious, why would it matter? Negative Nancy can speak now, but only with constructive criticism. No more emoticons with middle fingers.
By the Way.... Just for the record, we are back to one of my 3 options: Wiring up a switch to bypass the computer.
Only difference is, it's not engaging/disengageing the actuator manually. It's only keeping the computer from doing so once it's already engaged.
I only said you cannot simply ground out a wire to make it work (which is correct, yet still somehow "earned" myself the name "negative nancy".).
But if that's the way you really want to do, I can show/tell you how to do it that way too.
Just had a thought. Why re-invent the wheel? Has anyone noticed that when you take the truck out of 4wd with the e-locker locked, it takes 2-3 seconds for the e-locker to disengage? Why not disrupt the signal from the e-locker so it stays locked? The ECU will keep trying and then you can switch the e-locker back on when your done and the ECU will have it's way.
OK, being REALISTIC here, not negative. It could potentially throw a few errors if you don't trick the entire system into thinking it's already diconnected... sensors and all (which could still be some potentially complicated wiring to overcome).
If you want to test it here's how.
~Put it in 4LO and engage the locker.
~With it still in park/neutral get out and disconnect the wire from the actuator.
~try switching to 4HI or 2HI and see if it gives an error or buzzer. (and verify it actually changes to 4Hi or 2HI)
~If you encounter any complications also try diconnecting the indicator switch and/or the limit switch. (When you wire it up, in might have to be a combination of disconecting all 3.)
I would not diconnect the limit switch before the actuator with it still in 4LO with the locker engaged. The computer might think it's disengaged and try to engage it with it already in. You can guess for yourself the potential outcome if the motor came on with it already engaged...
Let me know what happens and I can tell you exactly what needs to be bypassed or rewired to do it.
That didn't work either. The computer won't let you shift out of 4LO with the locker unplugged. The warning lights all go haywire, but no buzzer for me, I have removed all THREE of them. Have to tell the computer it is disengaged even though it isn't. This may be overcomplicated, but I think this is the ticket, the computer knows 4LO is engaged from
A) The switch position on the dash
B) The L4 indicator switch (wherever that is)
C) The transfer case
D) The ADD (front end) must also be engaged before the locker will lock
So if I trace down where those four wires go and how to send a false signal through them, bingo. Can you guys think of any other signal that changes in 4LO?
Re: Locker mod?
Sorry...
Re: Locker mod?
Linear Mode
