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TacomaGeneral discussion forum for the 2005 and later Toyota Tacoma.
This is a discussion thread titled "Stiffer rear suspension for '05 DC LB?", within the Tacoma forum, part of the Truck Forums category.
I've recently purchased an '05 DC LB 4x4 (non-TRD), and am unhappy with the rear suspension. In particular, I've noticed two things:
1. I recently took a long trip with the truck loaded up to just below its 5450 lb GVWR, with ~850 lbs of the total load over the rear (in other words, I was below the GVWR and both GAWRs, so the truck was _not_ overloaded per specification). I noticed that the truck bottomed out onto the rear bump stops several times when driving over bumps/waves in highways (and did so heavily a couple times), and that the rear end felt very "loose" overall.
2. During routine driving with just myself and a ~210 lb Snugtop Supersport shell, the rear end actually feels looser/softer than the front end, which suggests to me that Toyota designed this truck's suspension to optimize handling when empty. Normally adding a couple hundred pounds to the bed improves the ride of a pickup (it certainly did in my old '95 Ext Cab 4x4 Tacoma). Not so with this truck.
Has anybody else experienced this issue? If so, what have people done to fix it?? (add-a-leafs, TRD shocks, etc). Ideally I'd like to stiffen the rear suspension up by ~20% and add an inch or so of travel before hitting the stops. If I could get it to where the ride is optimal at a total rear load (including the shell) of, say, 300 lbs and acceptable up to ~800 lbs then that would be perfect.
Also, does anybody happen to know how much weight the tow package adds? My truck has the alloy wheels and the tow package, and its curb weight measures out at 4160 lbs (vs Toyota's spec of 4100 for the DC LB). I know that the tow package adds to the weight while the alloy wheels reduce it, and I'm wondering if anybody here knows how those contributions break down? The reason I ask is because I don't really need the tow package right now (I got it because it's what the dealer had available) and I'm tempted to pull as much of that h/w as possible off the truck to save some weight, if doing so is possible.
My truck has the alloy wheels and the tow package, and its curb weight measures out at 4160 lbs (vs Toyota's spec of 4100 for the DC LB). I know that the tow package adds to the weight while the alloy wheels reduce it, and I'm wondering if anybody here knows how those contributions break down?
Not sure if the manufacture's "curb weight" includes fuel or not. 21 gallons of fuel will weigh about 130 lbs. 60 lbs isn't too far off actually -- I would have expected more difference.
Not sure if the manufacture's "curb weight" includes fuel or not. 21 gallons of fuel will weigh about 130 lbs. 60 lbs isn't too far off actually -- I would have expected more difference.
Not sure if the manufacture's "curb weight" includes fuel or not. 21 gallons of fuel will weigh about 130 lbs. 60 lbs isn't too far off actually -- I would have expected more difference.
I believe that the manufacturer's curb weight rating is legally required to include all fluids including a full tank of fuel.
I hit the bump stops on my access cab once in a while. I can be driving up a dirt road and hit an incline and the bump stops get hit. It does seem way too easy for the stops to hit. From what I've read, if you lift the rear in any way or stiffen it up, the brake proportion valve will not react the same. The less the rear end sags, the less brake force is applied to the rear brakes thus transfering the stopping job to the front brakes.
Well, you could take off the hitch, but IMO that would just be more trouble than its worth. If you were never going to use it again the trouble would be worth it but if not, it would be a PITA to tke it off and put it back on.
As far as the load goes, especially with my 2001, any midsize truck is going to be close to hitting the bump stops on a mediocre bump (even highway undulation ?sp?) with nearly 1000 lbs of dead weight in the back. Assuming you included your weight, options, receiver hitch, topper, and load, etc. Also a thought - The DC longbed weighs ~55 lbs more than the SB with the same suspension setup (its not much but 50 lbs is 50 lbs more than nothing)
My 2001 Tacoma would hit the bump stops pretty bad when i drove over bumps with my 04 Kawasaki Prairie 700 (~600 lbs) so I can believe the 05's would with that much weight, although just from my inspections of them on the lot, the rear suspension "seems" a lot stiffer than the previous gen.
Also, it has been confirmed by somebody and I forgot who, that the SR5, TRD OR, and TRD Sport each have different part #s for their rear leaf springs. Now, I am not sure how different they are but the TRD models may or may not have a slightly stiffer suspension.
Curb Weight is the actual weight of the truck without any passengers cargo, or fluids in it. It’s the base weight that is used in subtraction to calculate the total weight of the vehicle with passengers and cargo.
Gross Vehicle Weight is the total weight of the loaded vehicle. This includes the vehicle itself and the cargo that is loaded within that vehicle.
Gross Vehicle Weight Ratings are the ratings that are calculated by the manufacturers as to be the amount of weight that the vehicle will be when the vehicle itself is weighed filled with gasoline and loaded according to manufacturer’s specifications.
Curb Weight is the actual weight of the truck without any passengers cargo, or fluids in it. It’s the base weight that is used in subtraction to calculate the total weight of the vehicle with passengers and cargo.
Gross Vehicle Weight is the total weight of the loaded vehicle. This includes the vehicle itself and the cargo that is loaded within that vehicle.
Gross Vehicle Weight Ratings are the ratings that are calculated by the manufacturers as to be the amount of weight that the vehicle will be when the vehicle itself is weighed filled with gasoline and loaded according to manufacturer’s specifications.
Where do these definitions come from? Can you cite an authoritative source of some sort?
The reason I ask is becasue you appear to be incorrect, at least w.r.t. vehicles sold in the US (I notice that you're from Canada; Perhaps the regs are different up there). I did some more looking, and it turns out that vehicle weight ratings are govered at least in part by federal regulations enacted to implement the Clear Air Act amendments of 1990. The relevant section is 40 CFR part 86 - http://www.washingtonwatchdog.org/do...40/part86.html):
"Curb weight means the actual or the manufacturer's estimated weight of the vehicle in operational status with all standard equipment, and weight of fuel at nominal tank capacity, and the weight of optional equipment computed in accordance with §86.1832–01; incomplete light-duty trucks shall have the curb weight specified by the manufacturer."
There's some more verbiage in a different section of 40 CFR part 86 dictating which options do and don't have to be included in curb weight computations from a mileage certification perspective: http://www.washingtonwatchdog.org/do...tml#86.1832-01
Finally I see someone with the same complaint I have. I have owned 8 pickups and this is the only one that would bottom so easily at below rated load. I was seriously thinking of taking it to the dealer to have it looked at. I was at the point of weighing the truck, filling it bacgs of sand to its gvw and seeing if it was bottomed out. I have been looking around for new leaf springs that would at least make the truck carry its rated weight without bottoming out on hwy joints. Everything I have seen so far is to lift it which I do not want to do.
Seems toyota decided to side with the off-roaders on the rear suspension. Softer springs give better articulation on rough roads.
You might want to try some better shocks (aka stiffer gas charged shocks for you) before you look into doing add-a-leaf or any type of spring assist. It seems your just looking for a heavier spring rate in the back to carry heavy loads in the bed. Try new shocks first then if you don't like the effect then research into springs.
I can almost promise you'll have less problems if you do shocks first and springs second.
"Curb weight means the actual or the manufacturer's estimated weight of the vehicle in operational status with all standard equipment, and weight of fuel at nominal tank capacity, and the weight of optional equipment computed in accordance with §86.1832–01; incomplete light-duty trucks shall have the curb weight specified by the manufacturer."
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I did a little searching and you appear to be right. Several sources have differing definitions but the one most commonly used is the one you sourced. My experience's had lead me to beleive otherwise, sorry my bad. My experiance with weight ratings has always had to do with vehicle fuel consumption and it's impact on GVWR. From this you can estimate how far you can travel during safari's and such.
The front-end of my truck bottoms easily, the rear isnt as bad but it bottoms too, Iam talking about driving paved roads,dips,potholes,ect... damit Toyota, only time my Nissan ever bottomed out was when I hauled *** with 1100+ lbs of gravel in the bed. Guess Toyota probley wont see this and Ill have to look for aftermarket suspension soon.
I just installed some Bilstein 5100s and they are awesome. Twice the diameter of the puny stock shocks and really made the rear solid. The part number is BE5-A014-H5. Call JC at Offroad Warehouse. His number is the 800 number on www.orwmail.com They are $75.99 each with free shipping. The part number is for the Tundra but they bolt right into the Tacoma. I spoke to Bilstein and they have been testing them on the Tacoma and had good results.
I just installed some Bilstein 5100s and they are awesome. Twice the diameter of the puny stock shocks and really made the rear solid. The part number is BE5-A014-H5. Call JC at Offroad Warehouse. His number is the 800 number on www.orwmail.com They are $75.99 each with free shipping. The part number is for the Tundra but they bolt right into the Tacoma. I spoke to Bilstein and they have been testing them on the Tacoma and had good results.
These trucks have been highly acclaimed for the "ride quality" of a car. If you want the ride and performance of a truck that can haul weight, mod the leafs, and or shocks. They can be done cheaply. You cant really have both. Also consider the rear air shocks. If a load is required merely air up.
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Stiffer rear suspension for '05 DC LB?
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