Muth Signal Mirrors for Tacoma - Page 3 - Toyota Tundra Forums : Tundra Solutions Forum

mikegray · #31 (**permalink**) 03-20-2006, 04:13 PM

Update on my order.
Got an email from Rob today, they are out of amber signal mirrors right now. (Too many of use guys are ordering them!!!!

)
About a 10 day delay for amber. They have some red ones.
Its too cold up here right now to work on it anyhow, so I am waiting for the amber ones.

Johnny Law · #32 (**permalink**) 03-21-2006, 07:59 PM

I spent today working on my mirrors. Taking the doors apart and swapping out the mirrors was time consuming, but not bad at all. Tapping into the turn signal wiring was an ever lovin' bitch. I had to drop the bottom of the dash (under the steering wheel) then take out the four bolts/nuts holding on the fuse block to get at the wiring behind that. The wires you need aren't difficult to find, its getting your hands in there to put those PITA Scotch Loks on whilst holding the mirror wires so nothing moves. Not alot of room for moving around and doing this. On the plus side, the signal mirrors look awesome. They are bright (I got red LEDs). I still haven't hooked up the heating wires yet as I ran out of daylight. Any ideas on where in that driver's side kick panel there is the ACC (switched) power source (and what color(s) the wire is?)

As a wierd side note, my car starter still works and locks/unlocks the doors, but the outside lights don't flash to confirm the operation like they used to. I might have to go to back to the installer after I button everything back up and see if something got switched off inside the module.

TheKneebiter · #33 (**permalink**) 03-21-2006, 08:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by johnny law

As a wierd side note, my car starter still works and locks/unlocks the doors, but the outside lights don't flash to confirm the operation like they used to. I might have to go to back to the installer after I button everything back up and see if something got switched off inside the module.

Make sure your headlamp switch is in the off position. Even if it is on once you shut the truck the lights go out but the lamps wont flash with the starter . Had this problem and it drove me crazy untill i figured out that my headlight switch was on.

Snakeii · #34 (**permalink**) 03-21-2006, 10:52 PM

Awesome find guys! Ive been wanting to get some heated mirrors, especially since I moved back up to VT (NC does get a lot of frost with the humidity), the signals will be a added bonus.

Bad side is some of the other toys (non Taco related) I want will be put on hold. Retrax, mirrors, lift, finish carputer project, etc... No wonder why they call it TOYota!

Johnny Law · #35 (**permalink**) 03-22-2006, 02:44 PM

Well, after looking over the Electrical Wiring Diagrams in the database and tracing and testing, I found the wires to tap into for the heated part of the mirrors. There are two, one runs the power outlet, the other the cigar lighter. I don't know which wire does what as they are on the same circuit, but they are both light green with no stripe on them. They are in the connector right above where you need to tap into the turn signal circuits, so you can do all your connections without having to drop the fuse panel twice like I did. My mirrors get nice and toasty now, I almost can't wait for some frost.

I found out why my lights were not flashing/staying on with my car starter. When I moved the fuse panel down, it loosened a connection to the "brain" just enough where everything worked except the lights.

I used one of the switch blanks to put the heater switch in, the one right next to the mirror controls. 3/4" almost takes up the whole blank from side to side, it's a tight fit. There is a nipple on the back of the blank that I drilled my pilot hole through, it's dead center in the middle of the blank

Again, the worst part is getting your hands into the area behind the fuse panel after you drop it and still having enough room to work in there, other than that, everything went well, I am glad I went with these.

Zigen · #36 (**permalink**) 03-23-2006, 12:55 AM

You know, pics would be really really nice...

DUKFVR · #37 (**permalink**) 03-23-2006, 09:08 AM

THANKS for the update JL!!!

cduncanf · #38 (**permalink**) 04-02-2006, 01:21 PM

Ok guys. Time to order. So do I go for Amber or Red? I know it's a chocolate or vanilla question but what does everyone think?
Thanks
Duncan
PS. Good tip on Rob!

mikegray · #39 (**permalink**) 04-03-2006, 06:11 PM

The amber ones are in stock again. Got mine Saturday!

Working on too many other projects to start the mirrors though.

Will get too it soon.

I went for the amber, match the signals.

EValdez · #40 (**permalink**) 04-03-2006, 07:01 PM

Hey Kneebiter thanks for doing the leg work. Did Rob mention any kind of deadline for ordering at the discounted rate? Also, for those less mechanically inclined, anyone know how much it'd cost to have a "professional" install these bad boys?

TheKneebiter · #41 (**permalink**) 04-03-2006, 07:16 PM

no time limit within reason. and if you go to the muth website you can use your zip to find a local installer. they get aprox $130 labor for the install .

cduncanf · #42 (**permalink**) 04-13-2006, 11:11 PM

I can't say enough good things about Rob and brandnewstuff.com. I emailed him last week, he sent me a link to use to get the $250 price. Got the mirrors via FedEx in 6 days. The install really is pretty easy and I didn't find it all that time consuming. Got the amber heated mirrors in no prob at all. That might have taken 1-1/2 to 2 hours tops. The problem is figuring out which blue w/black stripe wire to use. I guessed at the easiest blue/black i could find but it wasn't the right one. Have to try when there's daylight or give up and take out the whole fuse panel. Ugh...

Duncan

TheKneebiter · #43 (**permalink**) 04-13-2006, 11:16 PM

im thinking of trying one of these . http://www.4x4mods.com/Product/Jeep/...rswitch40.html

TacomaOffRoadGrl · #44 (**permalink**) 04-14-2006, 06:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheKneebiter

im thinking of trying one of these . http://www.4x4mods.com/Product/Jeep/...rswitch40.html

Let us know how you like these switches...

cduncanf · #45 (**permalink**) 04-14-2006, 10:23 PM

I put the mirrors in last night. It really doesn't take more than 2 hours for both mirrors. If you are even half-mechanically inclined, it's probably not worth having a professional installation. Just follow the Muth instructions carefully and you won't have a problem.

Here are a couple of things to be careful of:
1) Interior panels are a hassle, no matter what. While I didn't have any problems, they are held on with an odd assortment of different clips and if you aren't careful, you'll break something.
2) The Toyota mirror motor wire. When I put the mirror back together, I did not pull the factory mirror control wire (it's in a PVC tube) through enough, leaving it a bit short. So, I had to take the mirror apart again and pull more slack.
3) Finding the right leads. The easiest way to do this is to remove the lower dash panel. You do NOT need to remove the fuse block that is behind the little stash drawer. To remove the dash panel, remove the kick panel, remove the 10mm bolt on the left, then remove the 10 mm bolt on the right. Gently pull out the top of the dash panel and it should snap out.
Once the panel is off, you have a clear view of the fuse block. The signal leads couldn't be much easier to find. The leads are in the top left-most connector going into the front of the fuse block. They are taped together into a bundle of approximately 6 or 8 wires.
To connect to the leads (blue w/yellow stripe and blue w/black stripe), I gently made an incision in the electrical tape holding the harness together, removing about 2". Once I did so, it was very easy to put the Scotch Locks on and connect the mirrors. I have attempted to attach a pic to help you out. The red circle represents the connector. The yellow line is just to the left of the harness bundle that you want to work on. You can see towards the bottom of the yellow line where I attached the Scotch Locks. This all tucks neatly back behind the kick panel.
Hope this helps!
Duncan