I have a brake controller and my Taco is prewired with the tow pkg. I've connected the pigtail based on the instructions and plugged in my Brakeforce controller. All seems right, but when braking it doesn't seem as if the trailer brakes are grabbing.
Does anyone know if these controllers go bad very often? I've double checked my connections. All of the trailer lights operate correctly. Anyone know a way to test the controller?
I have a brake controller and my Taco is prewired with the tow pkg. I've connected the pigtail based on the instructions and plugged in my Brakeforce controller. All seems right, but when braking it doesn't seem as if the trailer brakes are grabbing.
Does anyone know if these controllers go bad very often? I've double checked my connections. All of the trailer lights operate correctly. Anyone know a way to test the controller?
Thanks
The brake controller I had in my F150 had a little switch you could slide to the right, if you slid it while driving, you could actually feel the trailer slowing you down. If you slid it quickly, all the way to the right, the trailer tires would lock.
I hadn't thought of that. I'm pulling my buddie's camper. It has a battery on the tongue - but I thought that was just for the interior power on the camper. Could it also be required to be connected for the brakes to work? I thought the brakes pulled power through the 7 pin plug.
I hadn't thought of that. I'm pulling my buddie's camper. It has a battery on the tongue - but I thought that was just for the interior power on the camper. Could it also be required to be connected for the brakes to work? I thought the brakes pulled power through the 7 pin plug.
Which begs the question...are you getting power on the brake pin when you manually activate the brake? Remember, the brake controller is fed 12v to power it up but it also regulates 12v coming from the main junction box going back to the trailer. Each of these power sources will have it's own fuse.
Check underneath, on the sides, and even on the back of the controller for an adjuster -- possibly a dial. If it's turned down too far, nothing much will happen.
I just got my Tacoma, so I haven't hooked up the brake controller yet, but I looked on the trailer connector which I took off my Ford. Looking at the end down into the holes, the brake line controller is the 4th pin counting clockwise from the top. The top being the raised bump which slides into the connector notch. It is a black wire. I believe all colors and positions are industry standard.
The controller varies the amount of current to a electro-magnet which slides on a metal disk in the wheel assembly. This in turn pulls a mechanical mechism which puts pressure on the brake. The more current the harder it holds to the disk and more force on the brake.
The amount of current applied is determined by the controller. Most controllers have a de-accelerometer which measures how fast you are stopping. This can be a pendulum or a ball bearing type of device to name a couple. You apply a setting which multiplies the de-accelerometer determined current. Most controllers have a lever or a button which allows you to manually control the current.
In order for you to have braking you must have voltage to the pin, but that alone will not tell you if you have enough current to pull in the magnet. First I would check to see if you have voltage at the right pin when someone is manually tripping the controller. If you have voltage you need to determine if you have adequate current. In order to measure the current you will need an appropriate ammeter, but not knowing how many amps will be pulled you can burn out an ammeter, so I would go directly to the magnet, assuming you have voltage all the way back to the brake. Jack up the axle and see if the brake is working at all. Applying voltage from a battery through a 20 amp fuse directly to the brake should tell you if the brake is working without the controller. If it is not pull off the wheel and see if the magnet is working. Could be a broken wire or a stuck magnet.
Which controller do you have? I have the prodigy and it connected right in under the dash. Sounds like you have the same one. If so, try connecting the trailer and start out slow. Slide the button on the bottom until the brakes engage. You should feel them lock up if you go too far.
You can then set the brake controller by the adjustment "wheel" on the left side. You put your foot on the brake and adjust the setting until they reach "6.0" It should be set. Also, there is a "boost" feature which is the right side button. That will apply more power. As the brakes wear a little, you will need more power to stop. I use the 1st boost setting (makes it 6.1) and it works fine.
The best thing about the prodigy is it will tell you if is not working properly. There are a bunch of diff. error codes you will get from shorts, etc. When connected, you will get a "c" on the screen and when the brakes are applied, the numbers increase by the amount of force applied.
IF everything is showing normal on the controller, then maybe the brakes on the trailer need adjusting.
Trailer Brake Question
Linear Mode
