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This is a discussion thread titled "My Tundra Experience", within the Tires and Wheels forum, part of the Technical & Vehicle Assistance Forums category.


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Old 09-11-2003, 11:02 AM
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Default My Tundra Experience

I own an '01 Tundra Access Cab, 4x4, TRD, Limited. I ordered and
bought this truck new at Marietta Toyota in Marietta, GA in April '01.
I got a pretty good deal on the truck and the delivery of the truck
and treatment of me as a customer was second to none.

From the very beginning I noticed the truck had a tendency to pull
right. I brought it back to Marietta Toyota and asked them to look at
it. They said everything was fine mechanically but a tire was low on
pressure. I found that very hard to believe since I knew before I
went in that the tire pressure in every tire (including the spare )
was perfect. I was a tire technician and service writer for years and
I am really precise about my tires.

The truck continued to pull right so I brought it back for the 6K oil
change. Again they said it was tire pressure. This time I challenged
that by telling them I was religious about tire pressure and had
personally checked it before bringing it in. In fact, I check my
pressure at every other gas fillup. They then tried to blame my
gauge. I showed them my very good tire gauge so they then decided it
was road crown.

AT 18K I took the truck in and told them to align it at my expense.
They came back and said they had to make on very minor changes but the
specs were fully within limits before they even started. At this
point they pointed out the treads on the tires were seperating. I had
them rotate in my spare (big mistake, trust me)

I brought the truck back in a thousand miles later. The tires on the
truck were worn to the point of baldness (less than 2/1000 of usable
tread left) at 19K. At this point I noticed that the alignment
paperwork fromt he previous alignment indicated they had set it to 4x2
specs, not 4x4 specs. Since they told me at that time the truck was
already fully within specs that tells me the truck had ALWAYS been set
wrong. After intense haggling between me and the dealer they agreed
to realign the truck to the proper specs and replace two tires. I
paid for two more myself and they installed a complete set of
Michelins. The alignment guy and the service writer were VERY unhappy
and gave me the impression they thought I was just a chronic
complainer. They didn't say it but they certainly let me know,
particularly through their body language.

I took the truck home and again it pulls right. Consistently. Hard
enough that after a long trip your wrists are sore from holding it in
place. I took it back. On top of that the tires bounce around all
the time. So now it feels like I have a bad alignment and a bad
balance. I examine the wheels and tires and they have used over three
ounces on two tires and on one other tire they have two weights placed
120 degrees apart. I have a balanced a lot of tires in my life and
had never seen a balance like that unless the wheel was warped badly.
Trust me, the wheels were not (and still are not) warped. I took it
back to Marietta Toyota and asked them to check it. This time they
told me they had nobody available to check out the alignment.

I took it to another Toyota dealership and they essentially said I
needed to take this up with Marietta Toyota. I called they Toyota
customer service line and they took my information and told me they
would contact the Customer Satisfaction person at Marietta Toyota and
they would contact me within three business days, but usually within a
day. Three business days came and went which bracketed a three day
weekend due to a holiday (Labor Day)and still I hadn't heard back. I
called the Toyota Cusomer Relations line back (1-800-331-4331) and
they asked me to give Marietta Toyota another day. I waited until the
next day and again called back the Customer Relations line. This time
they told me there was nothing they could do about it. Their not so
helpful message to me was "we can't make them contact you. You will
need to call them directly". Now I'm hot. What good has it done to
deal with Marietta Toyota directly?

I call Marietta Toyota and ask for their Customer Relations Manager
and was told she was out but would contact me shortly. I left my
number and waited five hours. Nothing. I called back and was told
she was in a meeting. I again left my number. After two more hours,
still no reply. Now, I am really mad.

I pick up the phone and call my salesman at Marietta Toyota. This guy
is a prince. He listens to just a fraction of my story and tells me
to stay at my number and he will get someone on it. As we are talking
my incoming line starts ringing and I can tell it is the Customer
Relations Manager from Marietta Toyota. My salesman asks me to ignore
that call and wait. A few minutes later the Fixed Operations Manager
calls me and asks me to come in. I come right over and after a brief
wait, get an opportunity to explain the problem to him and another
man, a service writer.

As I lay the problem out I stand up and start laying paperwork on his
desk. First the receipts and then the alignment records. He
instantly sees what could be the problem. He asked me what it will
take to make it right. I tell him to get the alignment right and I
mean "spot-on right". I also want the tires to be rebalanced. I also
ask them to change the oil at my expense.

Now for some praise. They took my truck and gave me a rental car from
their fleet. A day later I pick up the truck and have driven it for
one week today. The alignment feels right and the tires feel right.
I notice they still take an incredible amount of weight and one wheel
has two weights spaced apart. I chalk this up to what they call a
"force balance".

Now back to my rant. When I picked up my truck they told me I needed
new front brakes. Sure enough, the front pads are worn down
significantly. I am shocked because the truck only has 31K on it. I
opted to take the truck to the local JustBrakes franchise and they are
at this minute putting on new brakes. Why would a truck with 31K need
new brakes. More significantly, why only on one side, the left? Of
course you can't replace only one side and I wouldn't even if you
could.

Now let me give you some details about me. I am a trained and
certified (certifiction no longer current) mechanic with over five
years of experience as both an automotive mechanic specializing in
brakes and suspension and simultaneously selling and installing
literally thousands of sets of tires on passenger cars and light
trucks. I am very concientious about my tires and alignment.

I have owned many Four Wheel Drive trucks. In fact, the last 4x4 I
owned has a little over 80K miles on one set of Michelin LTX tires. I
know how a 4x4 drives, I know HOW to drive a 4x4. I know how to
maintain cars, partiularly tires and suspension components. In short
I can say without false modesty, I know what I am talking about.

This Tundra has been a nightmare of epic proportions. After such a
wonderful purchasing experience, the service has been horrific. Until
I put my foot down I couldn't get anyone's attention. You can forget
using the Toyota Customer Satisfaction number for any assistance.
They work from a script and can not help you if it doesn't fit in the
script.

My advice to anyone no matter what kind of vehicle you own is to pay
attention to the car and save every scrap of paper pertaining to
serviceing. I truly understand the psychology of a Service Writer and
I know that they absolutely hate people self-diagnosing their cars.
From the very beginning of this my observations and diagnoses were
absolutely correct. If they had taken the time to listen in the
beginning this would have been a mere bump in the road. It is now a
nightmare I am going to remember this for a long, long time.

I no longer trust the truck. I look at these tires with significant
wear (cupping) after only 11K miles and I feel cheated out what I paid
for. Not deliberate, "were going to steal your money" cheated, but
neglectfull "get this guy out of here" cheated. I waited a long time
to buy a new vehicle and got exactly what I was looking for in
equipment. My intention was to own this vehicle for ten years, just
like my '93 Camry (also bought new). Now I just don't know. Whenever
I look at those screwed up tires, the weirdly weighted wheels,
whenever I have to correct the steering to keep it straight I'm going
to wonder if there is another problem. Whenever I touch the brakes
and hear any noise I'm going to wonder if there is another problem.

TundraNick
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Old 09-11-2003, 04:37 PM
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Nick,

I understand your frustration. Let me give you a couple of bits of information you probably don't know.

1) On the corporate level you're not dealing with Toyota Motor Sales, you're dealing with Southeast Toyota Distributors in the five southern states. I haven't heard ANYBODY with a good word to say about Southeast Toyota, but they must have a contract that TMS can't bust. http://www.jmfamily.com/SET/default.htm

2) Toyota's spec for the Tundra is way too wide. You can be within spec and things still aren't right. Here's what you need for correct alignment of these trucks: DJ's Alignment Setting Recommendations

Forget the dealership. Find a good independent shop with a Hunter alignment setup, and maybe also a Hunter 9700 Roadforce balancer, and a tech that knows how to use them and cares about doing a good job. I don't know why one brake wore. I've got 30k on my original Bridgestone tires and still 6/32nds remaining, and still good brake life remaining. Don't forget to use your parking brake periodically to keep your rear brakes adjusted. If you don't yet have 36k, get the front brake TSB done.


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Old 09-12-2003, 12:06 AM
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Ken's advice is spot on, but I'd like to expand on it.

Alignment: I would really like to see the alignment measurements of your truck. I mean all the measurements made during each step of this nightmare. I'm especially interested in the final (i.e. "current" measurements). The Tundra is VERY sensitive to alignment. My original BFGs were half gone at 18K miles, but my Michelin LTX M/S look like they'll give me about 70K of use. Please either post them here or send me a PM.

Two balance weights: Hunter DSP balancers allow the use of "split weights" in which two equal weights, spaced apart, are used instead of a single larger weight. This is useful if the single weight would be VERY large, because smaller weights stay on better. If you are REALLY finicky, you can get a balance that is "dead on" instead of just within a quarter ounce or so. I have often used this on my own tires. This might be why you have two weights instead of one.

Brakes: Beats me. I've just rotated the tires on my Tundra and my Sequoia and the brakes are in great shape on both. At the rate they are wearing, I'll get about 150K miles on each vehicle before changing. I'm pretty easy on brakes.

Don't give up on your truck. I am EXTREMELY pleased with mine, and I don't see any reason why yours can be put right. Let's work on it.
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Old 09-12-2003, 09:16 AM
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Here are the results fromt he last three alignments:

First Alignment
Tundra 4X2 : 2001 :V8 : Limited with Off-road package:


Left Front
Camber Actual 0.1
Camber Before ...
Camber Specified -0.5
Camber Range 1.1
Caster Actual ...
Caster Before ...
Caster Specified 0.5
Caster Range 2.0
Toe Actual ...
Toe Before ...
Toe Specified 9.7
Toe Range 12.2
SAI Actual ...
SAI Before ...
SAI Specified 9.2
SAI Range 11.2
Included Angle Actual ...
Included Angle Before ...
Included Angle Specified 9.2
Included Angle Specified 12.2
Turning Angle Diff (No Included Specifications for this vehicle)

Right Front
Camber Actual 0.6
Camber Before ...
Camber Specified -0.5
Camber Range 1.1
Caster Actual ...
Caster Before ...
Caster Specified 0.5
Caster Range 2.0
Toe Actual ...
Toe Before ...
Toe Specified 0.02
Toe Range 0.22
SAI Actual ...
SAI Before ...
SAI Specified 9.2
SAI Range 11.2
Included Angle Actual ...
Included Angle Before ...
Included Angle Specified 9.2
Included Angle Specified 12.2
Turning Angle Diff (No Included Specifications for this vehicle)

Front
Cross Camber Actual -0.5
Cross Camber Before ...
Cross Camber Specified -0.5
Cross Camber Range 0.5
Cross Caster Actual ...
Cross Caster Before ...
Cross Caster Specified 0.03
Cross Caster Range 0.5
Total Toe Actual 0.37
Total Toe Specified 0.03
Total Toe Range 0.43

Left Rear, Right Rear And Rear: No Figures Provided.

Second Alignment
Tundra 4x4 : 2001 : V8 : Access Cab SR5 with Off-Road Package


Left Front
Camber Actual 0.3
Camber Before ...
Camber Specified -0.5
Camber Range 1.0
Caster Actual 1.7
Caster Before ...
Caster Specified 0.6
Caster Range 2.1
Toe Actual ...
Toe Before ...
Toe Specified -0.06
Toe Range 0.14
SAI Actual ...
SAI Before ...
SAI Specified 9.8
SAI Range 11.3
Included Angle Actual ...
Included Angle Before ...
Included Angle Specified 9.3
Included Angle Specified 12.3
Turning Angle Diff (No Included Specifications for this vehicle)

Right Front
Camber Actual 0.7
Camber Before ...
Camber Specified -0.5
Camber Range 1.0
Caster Actual 1.5
Caster Before ...
Caster Specified 0.6
Caster Range 2.1
Toe Actual ...
Toe Before ...
Toe Specified -0.06
Toe Range 0.14
SAI Actual ...
SAI Before ...
SAI Specified 9.8
SAI Range 11.3
Included Angle Actual ...
Included Angle Before ...
Included Angle Specified 9.3
Included Angle Specified 12.3
Turning Angle Diff (No Included Specifications for this vehicle)

Front
Cross Camber Actual -0.4
Cross Camber Before ...
Cross Camber Specified -0.5
Cross Camber Range 0.5
Cross Caster Actual 0.2
Cross Caster Before ...
Cross Caster Specified -0.5
Cross Caster Range 0.5
Total Toe Actual 0.28
Total Toe Before...
Total Toe Specified -0.12
Total Toe Range 0.28

Left Rear, Right Rear And Rear: No Figures Provided.

Third Alignment
Tundra 4x4 : 2001-02 : V8 : Access Cab Limited with Off-road package


Left Front
Camber Actual 0.2
Camber Before ...
Camber Specified -0.5
Camber Range 1.0
Caster Actual 1.6
Caster Before ...
Caster Specified 0.7
Caster Range 2.2
Toe Actual 0.01
Toe Before ...
Toe Specified -0.06
Toe Range 0.14
SAI Actual ...
SAI Before ...
SAI Specified 9.8
SAI Range 11.3
Included Angle Actual ...
Included Angle Before ...
Included Angle Specified 9.3
Included Angle Specified 12.3
Turning Angle Diff (No Included Specifications for this vehicle)

Right Front
Camber Actual 0.2
Camber Before ...
Camber Specified -0.5
Camber Range 1.0
Caster Actual 1.5
Caster Before ...
Caster Specified 0.7
Caster Range 2.2
Toe Actual 0.01
Toe Before ...
Toe Specified -0.06
Toe Range 0.14
SAI Actual ...
SAI Before ...
SAI Specified 9.8
SAI Range 11.3
Included Angle Actual ...
Included Angle Before ...
Included Angle Specified 9.3
Included Angle Specified 12.3
Turning Angle Diff (No Included Specifications for this vehicle)

Front
Cross Camber Actual -0.1
Cross Camber Before ...
Cross Camber Specified -0.5
Cross Camber Range 0.5
Cross Caster Actual 0.1
Cross Caster Before ...
Cross Caster Specified -0.5
Cross Caster Range 0.5
Total Toe Actual 0.02
Total Toe Before...
Total Toe Specified -0.12
Total Toe Range 0.28

Interesting here because this is the only sheet with readings for the rear. I will give you only the actual readings because there are no "Before", "Specified", or "Range" figures provided

Left Rear
Camber -0.4
Toe 0.01

Right Rear
Camber 0.2
Toe 0.00

Rear
Total Toe 0.01
Thrust Angle 0.00


I hope I have put these in a format you can make heads or tails out of. I am really intersted in your observations. Thank you so much.

Nick
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Old 09-12-2003, 12:13 PM
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The "factory" recommended alignment specs are:
camber: +0.25 +/- 0.75 degrees
caster: +1.27 +/- 0.75 degrees
total toe: +0.09 +/- 0.20 degrees
"My" recommended alignment specs are:
camber: +0.25 +/- 0.75 degree
caster: +2.00 +/- 0.75 degrees
total toe: +0.08 +/- 0.20 degrees
My recommended specs have been used repeatedly with good results, the primary difference being that caster is set at the upper limit of Toyota's allowed range. With that in mind, let's look at your three alignment jobs.

Alignment #1

The measured caster values are shown as ".....", which means THEY DIDN'T MEASURE CASTER. Insufficient caster and/or mis-matched caster left-to-right is a prime cause of "pull". Your complaint was "pull" and they didn't measure caster. Unbelievable. This is PURE INCOMPETENCE.

Camber was 0.1 (left) and 0.6 (right). This a BIG difference left-to-right, and is totally unacceptable.

Total toe was 0.37 degrees. This was HORRIBLE. Incorrect total toe is a prime cause of premature tire wear. Think of your tires being "pigeon toed", in that the angle between the "pointing directions" of the two front wheels was 0.37 degrees when it should have been 0.08 degrees. This means your tires were scrubbing sideways as they rolled down the road, and so the tread was "scrubbed off" in 19K miles. It probably was "squirrelly" to drive also.

Alignment #2

They actually measured caster this time, which is good. The values were 1.7 (left) and 1.5 (right) degrees, which were both "within limits". Camber was 0.3 (left) and 0.7 (right), which were also both "within limits". They are not "good", but they are within Toyota's allowed limits.

Total toe was 0.28, which again was HORRIBLE. If they actually adjusted the alignment and left total toe at this setting, then they are even more incompetent than their first job would lead you to believe. This was still wearing your tires out quickly.

Alignment #3

Camber is 0.2 (left) and 0.2 (right), which is just fine. Caster is 1.6 (left) and 1.5 (right), which are "within limits" and nicely matched left-to-right. Total toe is 0.02, which is not "dead on" but won't wear your tires out. This is much more acceptable, and it's not surprising that it drives better. It's not perfect, but it's a LOT better.

More Work

The alignment, although it is "good" given that it is aligned to Toyota's specs, is still not a good alignment. I would find another alignment shop where they will work with you to get it right, and I would have it aligned DEAD ON to "My" specs listed above. The Tundra is VERY sensitive to iinsufficient caster and needs all the caster it can get. If you do, it will be MUCH more stable, and will result in less tire wear during braking.

Tires

You didn't state what kind of tires you have. If they are showing "cupping" wear after 11K, then this was either the result of their use before the final alignment and/or they are not high enough quality. Cupping wear will not correct itself -- once it starts, it will continue to get worse, even if the tires are perfectly balanced and the alignment is dead on. Once you've had enough, I recommend the Michelin LTX M/S in P265/70R16.

Let us know what happens.
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Old 09-14-2003, 05:27 PM
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hey, I recently purchased a 2000 toy tundra access cab 4x4. I put a new set of tires and wheels on it. I too had a hell of a time getting the right side pull out of it as well as getting the vibration out of the tires. After a few alignment shops and much fustration a tech finally figured that the final calibration had to be done while the vehicle was idling since the torque of the motor affected that calibration. I cant remember precisly what it was but after the idling trick was tried the truck ran dead straight. As for the tires I put Nitto Terra grapplers 285 60 18 I love the look but think the tires arent what they are hyped up to be. It took using Discount Tires road force balancing machine to get a more comprehensive balance. It worked however, I had one tire that came into specs barely and it still had some vibration. I coerced the salesman to order another tire and chance that it would have less "egg" characteristics. I was fortunate the replacement was much better. As for the next time I buy tires they will be michelins.
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Old 11-12-2006, 02:20 PM
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Default Re: My Tundra Experience

When I was a kid, My Grandfather owned a Frame and Axle Business. He did alignments and frame straightening. He was a Guru, and he taught me there are very few Gurus.

Dad was a Farm Tractor Mechanic. He too was considered a Guru. He also Taught me there are very few Gurus.

My Younger Brother is a Tech in a Ford Garage, and in paying it forward, he is pretty good at what he does, but he sees a lot of parts changers come and go, who can't troubleshoot anything. This in spite of a Box which tells you what the problem is.

It is true today as you all know that Dealerships are in a comfortable position for playing games, and we hear about it all the time. Independent shops however cannot afford that luxury.

Please remember that these days a lot of the Tech working in dealerships are under 30 years of age. It still takes time to learn the trade, but is it just a job, or do they love doing it?

My Brother's opinion is that there are no alignment Gurus at Dealerships. Usually just a guy who is stuck doing them. No real Tire, or exhaust Gurus either. Tune up and drivability is limited to stock. In fact, you have to know, or find out somehow if there are any really good techs at a shop in the first place, because it is their personal integrity which will make or break your repair. A service writer these days knows little, they are just a repair sales person, their core competency is not repairing anything.

People who really know their business and deeply care about their work are hard to find. I have an Independent Tire Shop which really knows their stuff and has a good alignment machine. I cultivated a relationship with them so that I am assured the work they do is as good as I can get. I checked their reputation and the local hot rodders like to have their custom work done there.

Most importantly, there is no amount of free or warranty work that is worth the hassle of doing it over and over when I can reach in to my pocket and pay a real guru what he is worth for making my rig drive like a dream. Paying to keep a Guru in Business has paid me dividends for years and years. I know none of this really addresses our alignment problem, but perhaps it will cause some of us to see our problems in a different way and just let a real guru fix them instead of prolonging the agony of dealership runaround forever.

HTH
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