Worried about vibration when new tires are installed
Need new tires (sticking to OE size). However, from what I've read over the past year on this site, there seems to be a problem with vibration on some Tundra's wheel/tire setup. I have a 00' (28K) with no vibration problem. I am worried that when I replace my OE tires with new tires, I may experience the vibration problem. I will make sure the tire garage will balance and mount the tires as per some of the suggestions from this fourm, but is that enough? Will it ensure no vibration? Should I go to a Toyota dealer? Or if I never experienced the vibration problem before, I may not get it? Has anyone installed new tires and acquired the dreaded vibration? Am I concerned over nothing?
Thanks
Al
Re: Worried about vibration when new tires are installed
Quote:
Originally posted by Al_G Need new tires (sticking to OE size). However, from what I've read over the past year on this site, there seems to be a problem with vibration on some Tundra's wheel/tire setup. I have a 00' (28K) with no vibration problem. I am worried that when I replace my OE tires with new tires, I may experience the vibration problem. I will make sure the tire garage will balance and mount the tires as per some of the suggestions from this fourm, but is that enough? Will it ensure no vibration? Should I go to a Toyota dealer? Or if I never experienced the vibration problem before, I may not get it? Has anyone installed new tires and acquired the dreaded vibration? Am I concerned over nothing?
Thanks
Al
I just changed tires and wheels, and the toy is fine. It is a 2k, and I changed because I wanted to. (previous tires in good shape). Always remember, "garbage in - garbage out" . In other words, new tires or wheels do not cause vibration problems. It is the poor quality of the "shop" that does not balance the combination properly that causes the problem. There is an assumption here that the tires and/or wheels do not have out of round or runout issues that will cause the problem you noted. You will be fine with the changeover. Just use a quality shop or dealer.
__________________
John
The Toy: 2000 Tundra 4.7L TRD Limited 4x4 Red Pearl (23.0k Original Miles)
The mod list is long. Check some pics in my gallery for mod detail.
Same here. I have a 2000 with 32K miles and I put new tires on a few K ago. Went with Yokohama Geolander ATs in the 265/75 size, and they're a bit more aggressive than the stock BFGs.
I've had no problems since.
If you get a good brand name tire and find a shop with good equipment, like Hunter balancing machines, that are maintained and calibrated regularly, you shouldn't have a problem.
Thanks T and JB. Will purchase a quality tire (Michelin LTX M/S or Cross Terrain 265/70/16). I was looking into the 265/75/16 (fills wheel well much better) but will lower my gas milage (a little) as well as slower acceleration (a little). I will make sure the garage uses Hunter as their means of tire install. And also ask how many times it is calibrated. Thanks again.
I just ordered my new rim/tire combo......
Here what the tires.com guy told me.
They use a Hunter machine to balance all tires, they also provide a service that puts the high side of the rim, opposite the high side of the tire.
Its at a cost of 10 per tire and takes 40 minutes to do truck tires.
The way it was explained to me anyway? Makes sense, he said they use a lot less wheel weights this way.
DJ.......can you chime in here please?
I am SCEPTICAL, but,(by nature) I also know as fact tires and rims aren't perfect. No-matter the cost.
Enkei i've have bought in the past with excellent results.
The Rims are Enkei RT-6 with Pirelli Scorpian ZERO's . 17 inch, the tires are 285x60r x17 114v bbl.
He told me the guys he knew used the tires and LOVED them. He also told me they had NO-clearance issues.
But he is a salesmen??
I also had a vibration concern.....for 40.00 I figured better safe than sorry. Lets pray, I wasn't preyed on.......
Remember also that the feel of your tires greatly depends on the tread you buy. I went from the OE BFG rugged trails to BFG AT KO's. I really like the AT's but they do vibrate a little compared to the OE's because of the tread design. On new asphalt they are quiet as a mouse but on concrete highways they ride a bit rougher. Great tire though so far.
Cappi, your right. Tread design makes a difference when it comes to vibration. However, the vibration problmes I am concerned about was a issue that some owners were experinceing. The vibration was quite sever and much noticable as perviously posted and discussed many times especially on the old fourm.
Kaosv1,
Those wheels are my second option. If I received replys that people had problems with vibration after they mounted new tires, I would of gone after those wheels (Enki RT-6 17X8) from tires.com as well. Good luck with your new wheel/tire combo. Tune us in on how they ride and some pics if possible.
Al
I've heard and have experienced the issue and solution you're talking about.
Do you have a Discount tire stores in your area? I ask because they're the same company. I usually use Discount for my tires as they've always provided excellent prices and service. The stores will match the price of any other tire store and their own website (tires plus shipping).
Anyway, when I've gotten my tires balanced over the last 15 years on either a 4x4 truck or SUV, I've always ensured they used the minimum amount of weight possible. If they've added more than an ounce or so I ask them to redo it by rotating the tires 180 degrees, and if that doesn't help I ask for a new tire. On most occasions they've done it for me without asking. One of their managers explained the logic to me (after I asked what was taking so long) and that's how I learned to be watchful of how much weight they've added.
As far a paying Tires.com to do this service, I would question their reasons for charging you extra to do what they should do to provide you with a quality product. If they stick to it, tell them you'll look elsewhere for a company that will do it as part of their normal service. That may get them to do it free of charge. Besides mud tires, most tires shouldn't require that much weight to balance out and if they do, something is most likely wrong with the tire or wheel.
Finally as far as "putting the high side of the tire opposite the high side of the wheel" (I assume they mean heavier when they refer to the high side), think of it as spinning something like a baton. If one side is heavier than the other it will have a tendancy to want to pull away from the center point (your hand). If the two ends are of equal weight and you rotate the baton, it will feel well balanced and you can spin it without it trying to move your hand.
Whatever you buy, get them balanced using a Hunter GSP9700. This is more than a balancer -- go see http://www.gsp9700.com to find out more about.
Briefly, it presses a roller against the tire as the tire and wheel spin slowly and measures the "radial force variation" of the assembly. Then it measures the "runout" of the wheel. This lets the operator break the bead of the tire loose and rotate the tire on the wheel to place the stiffest part of the road force against the lowest part of the rim runout. The result is MUCH less "net radial force variation". Finally, the whole assembly is balanced in the usual manner.
This is what is done with the wheels and tires on new vehicles at the factory. Now it can be done in any tire shop. It's worth every penny you'll pay for it.
Where we live there are no discount tire stores? Otherwise I certainly would take that advice on tires.I don't have any leverage to tell them to do it for free? Free shipping is included.... thats huge.
The tire selection was they were a nice looking tire and Pirelli has from past experiences been a top tire.
DJ you explained exactly what he said....the machine did more than balance the tire and it took extra time to find the two heavy or high points.
He explained he had a vibration in his own tire at 65 and had them re-balance his tires this way, he mentioned his vibration was gone and it was smoother at all speeds.
As soon as they are here, they will be put on and I'll take a pic or two.
This week the Hellwig went on, NICE !........next week tires/rims....rhino on tuesday.....bug shield whenever they feel like shipping it? Then I'll be very happy, till one of you meatballs tells me of another great add-on.....
thanks.....again.
I also know now why you guys take the badges off!! I washed and waxed it yesterday. Waxing it I found way to many nooks and crannies.....some are coming off. lol
Well guys,
I have heard no discussions about the "hub-centric" design of the rims that will fit the Tundra.
I was told today that the center of the wheel must fit snugly against the hub (hub-centric design). Many wheels have the same lug pattern but are not the same hub size as the Tundra, consequently, the wheel rides on the individual lugs. The gap between the hub and the inner dimension of the wheel may be able to fluctuate causing an "out-of-round" effect.
So far, very few wheels fit the diameter of the Tundra properly including, but not limited to, the Enkei TR-6, which by the way, looks very sweet. The guy told me some Tundra owners of non hub-centric wheels are having vibration problems.
All makes sense to me but, is it correct? Want to get wheels but can't be sure of what to get anymore.
I put a set of 16x8 Enkeis on my Tundra and yes, the wheel is supported by the lugs and not the hub, but they are perfectly balanced. On mine, the center cap of the wheels are inserted from the rear and occupy the space on the wheel which would fit the axle hub. Quality wheels should show no signs of lug holes being off center. BTW, I almost went with the RT6's, but found a deal on ebay on another design.
The cap that goes through the back fits snugly against the hub. This is hub-centric....
This rim is the one the RT-6 replaced.
Both work the same way. The lug nuts are also tapered to make the fit perfect the rim is forced into the center via-both the cap and lugs.
My original rim has the same space in the hub. BUT does not have tapered lugs.
I believe the Enkei set-up is actually fool-proof. Except you still needs rims and tires to be balanced properly.
Mine as I stated, fit perfect, ride perfect, no shimmy or pull at any speed.
Good luck with the Enkei's, I like them also.......GREAT PRICE!
I'm not trying to be disagreeable, but on my Enkeis, the hub cap doen't fit snugly on the axle hub. In fact, there's no indication the hub cap contacts the axle hub at all. Mind you, the fit is very close, but not load bearing. IF it were hub centric, the weight would be bearing on the hub cap itself and there would be wear indications on the inside the hub cap and there are none. My Enkeis are definitely lug centric. They are not like the original steel OEM wheels which are hub centric.
I wasn't trying to disagree just make an observation.
Mine fit snuggly against the hub. They actually just sit there without lugs on?
In either case they run true. MY ONLY CONCERN.
I replaced the alloys...the lugs actually make the rim stay on all the hub does is center it, not weight bearing. I like the lugs and hub doing both. Not sure if it was intended or not though?
As long as your ride is smooth is all that matters.
Worried about vibration when new tires are installed
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