what are your thoughts on wire chains vs. steel chains? One better than the other? Why?
Which chains do you use on yours?
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what are your thoughts on wire chains vs. steel chains? One better than the other? Why?
Which chains do you use on yours?
Rami
__________________
2005 Toyota Tacoma Double Cab
4x2 TRD Off Road Package
I prefer "real chains" for both durability and safety. I have seen people stopped on the side of the road in LOUSY weather conditions staring at a broken cable chain with that "WTF do I do now?" look...
I have these . They are a BREEZE to put on and they ride smooth, more of a "whirrrr" than a "thump, thump, thump..." plus they are built heck for stout.
"I don't understand everything that I know about it"
Cable chains are OK. Don't drive on pavement with any chains. The cables will break sooner if abused. Always practice putting the chains on in your dry, well lit, level driveway before you get on the mountain in the dark, cold, wet snow. Bring gloves, flashlight, something dry to kneel or lay on. Always retighten your chains after driving a coupl'a hundred feet and again if they sound loose. Don't drive over 30 with chains, or whatever the local chain speed limit is.
Ken
You get what you inspect
Not what you expect.
S&S Long Tube Hi-Torque Headers
TRD/Eaton Limited Slip Differential
Gibson exhaust system
Hellwig Rear Antisway Bar
Sylvania Xenarc H.I.D. X1010 Auxiliary Low Beam Driving Lights
Schaeffer Engine Oil, ATF, Differential Oil
Racor LFS22825 full-flow transmission filter
Towing a 21' Bigfoot trailer using a Hensley Arrow hitch, Jordan brake controller, McKesh mirrors
I use the "real" chains. The first time I installed them, I did it on an icey slanted road, while it was snowing. Contrary to what people may say, it was a breeze. Just remember to get out after driving the first couple hundred yards to make sure they're still tight. I checked them a few times in the 3 days I was driving with them and they never loosened.
Armada 176 AR5s Skis, Look P12 Jib Bindings, Rossignol Bandit B1 Boots, Scott Poles... in the bed of a 2000 V8 Tundra 2x4 Access Cab with:
JBA Titanium Coated Headers, Stone Mountain Racing Y-Pipe, Flowmaster 50 Exhuast, Teamwest Sway-A-Way Coilovers, Camburg Upper Control Arms, Wheeler's Add-A-Leafs, AEM Brute Force Intake, MB Quarts, US Acoustics Amp, Bazooka Tube, Lots of Dynamat, A.R.E. LSII Tonneau Cover, Sir Michaels Rollpan, Bushwacker Flares, Shaved BSM, Billet Grilles, Mickey Thompson Classic Locks, 305/70/16 Pro-Comp X-Terrains, Lots of little things here and there. Future Projects: Color-Coded White Rear Bumper and Tailgate handle, Revalve SAWs, Deaver 11 Leaf Packs, Bilstein 5100 Rear Shocks.
All this info repeated here!
It really depends on what your needs are. Cables are okay for a smoother ride and for protection on ice. And while they may wear out sooner under the same conditions, chains can be easily repaired for ever. You just keep replacing the parts that wear out. Eventually you can replace the whole set. Not quite one link at time, but close.Originally Posted by darammer
Cables do have more of a tendency to just break and drop off, but again, when that happens with chains it kind of suck sbecause you can really do some damage with loose chains banging around in your wheel well. Always use fresh tightening bands.
While it's usually not legal due to reduced speeds required during chain controls, you can often drive faster with cables because they have less centrifical force pulling on the tightening band. The more mass you have the greater the force pulling on the band. You can only go so fast with chains and they'll start to pull off your wheels (again, banging on wheelwells - simply not cool.... )
Alan
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