I just put a 1" Daystar spacer on my 2005 DC Tundra SR5 4x4. I also replaced the original 265/65's with 265/70/17 Geolanders on the stock 17" rim.
I went in to get it realigned today and got this:
1) "The 2005 factory spec for Toyota and Lexus is not available for our Hunter yet"
2) "Even if it were, the factory spec means nothing since you have the 1" lift in the front".
I admittingly know nothing about alignment, except from what I have read on TS.com. I figured this would be fairly straight forward. Told them I wanted Camber and Toe dead center of the preferred range and the castor on the upper limit of that preferred range.
How are you guys getting your tundra's aligned after lifting?
Are you going back to factory spec?
Does comment #2 hold any truth?
I have a call into my Toyota dealer to find the preferred values/ranges for the 05 DC 4x4 Tundra SR5. If anybody has this, I would love to see it. Once I have this, would it be recommended that I pick my so-called preferred values by applying my camber, toe, and castor comment above? Or can Daystar or Wheelers help guide me?
They guy that told me this is a friend, service station owner, and IMO a pretty reliable source.
Thanks,
Rick
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2005 Silver Sky Metallic Tundra DC SR5 4x4 with 17" OEM rims sporting Geolander AT+2 265/70/17's. A Daystar 1" spacer, Stainless Nerf bars, Lund Avenger bug shield, tinted front windows, a stubby antenna that doesn't catch in my kids BBall net, De-stickered visors, and Flowmaster Delta 50 Cat back exhaust.
Next Mods... DeBadge the exterior and Boze 17" Rims.
If I were you, I'd send a PM to (DJ) here at TS.com. He's [with a doubt] THE MOST KNOWLEDGEABLE guy here on this site, when it comes to just about "ANYTHING" alignment oriented! Matter of fact, if memory serves me correctly, he's an engineer who actually "works" (or did work) for the company, that makes the Hunter machine. Heck, he may even see your post, before you have chance to PM him.
Also, you might try (tundrafire) as he's just had his DC lifted and realigned by a shop, which "specializes" in this sorta' thing, according to what he told me. He might be able to "ask" that shop, what the best settings would be.
Plus it certainly can't hurt, to get other opinions from DC owners, who've already been through this process.
__________________ 2004 SR5 Double Cab 4x4 w/TRD Pkg. Mods to Date:
16" 5 Spoke Brawn Enkei Wheels, Keyless Entry, Line-X Bed Liner, Challenger Running Boards, Husky Floor Liners, Bug Flector II (painted to match), Colegan Bra, Borla Dual (Side-Exit) Exhaust System, 2" Wheeler's Coil Lift, TRD Add-A-Leafs Mods to Come:
265/75/16 BFG A/T's, Possible Mods:
Seat Covers, 3M Clear Bra (hopefully... just cost so friggin' much!)
2005 spec will most likely be the same as 2004, which will probably match DJ's specs for the access cab.
If your shop is telling you that the lift invalidates the factory spec, run, don't walk, to another shop with a Hunter. The alignment has nothing to do with ride height... it has to do with how the front wheels align to each other and to the rear wheels/frame.
What is up with shops this year? Geez... 1" lift invalidates alignment specs? Sequoias are known to burn brake fluid?
__________________ 2003 SR5 TRD V8
Better Built toolbox / Limited leather / Power outlet mod / Maplight mod / Horn mod / Wheelskins leather wheel wrap / RS3200 Plus / Rebadged w/TRD / Bully Nerf bars / '05 OEM Taillights / Clear corners / Tint / Factory Woodgrain kit / Gentex EC Mirror / Gaylord's Toolbox-Lid / MB Overdrives with Revos / Muthco Signal Mirrors / Sport Grille / TRD Dual Exhaust / Camry Nav System
A body lift doesn't effect your alignment. Only a cradle or suspension lift will effect the alignment.
The new tires you bought will effect the alignment but should only be in the way of a caster adjustment. The camber and toe on a larger tire should be the same as it was. You likely can get away without having an alignment done with a body lift and one size up on tires.
It's a coil spacer... not the body lift. I know it has changed the alignment a little. I just want to optimize the ride, steering, and most importantly, tire wear.
It DOES steer a little differently, which is the main reason driving the alignment. Not bad, just enough to make me want it checked.
I have read through many of DJ's comments. Given the fact that it is slightly lifted and that it is an 05, I think his answer would be "set Toe and Camber dead on and Castor at the upper end of the range".
I did find a shop that said if I give them the spec, they would align it to that spec. They use a "Jim Beam Laser" system. They have to set up the machine differently, so the cost is $79.
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2005 Silver Sky Metallic Tundra DC SR5 4x4 with 17" OEM rims sporting Geolander AT+2 265/70/17's. A Daystar 1" spacer, Stainless Nerf bars, Lund Avenger bug shield, tinted front windows, a stubby antenna that doesn't catch in my kids BBall net, De-stickered visors, and Flowmaster Delta 50 Cat back exhaust.
Next Mods... DeBadge the exterior and Boze 17" Rims.
I just got off the phone with my dealer. Great guy's by the way. They gave me the following specs. I mentioned I had a 1" coil spacer in the front and new tires. The Service Advisor said he thinks that makes the trucks look so much better than that they just realigned a new Sequoia with a coil spacer today . That made me feel a little better! I'm not sure what machine they use.
Specs they gave me for 05 DC Tundra SR5 4x4:
Camber
Left 0.07 Right 0.07 TOL. .75
Cross Camber TOL .50
Caster
Left 1.87 Right 1.87 TOL. .75
Cross Caster TOL. .50
Total Toe
0.12 TOL .20
SAI
Left 10.32 Right 10.32 TOL. .75
Am I safe to assume TOL = Tolerance plus and minus. Example: Left Camber is -.68 to .82. Can that be right? Or is the .75 Tolerance split (.37 plus or minus)?
__________________
2005 Silver Sky Metallic Tundra DC SR5 4x4 with 17" OEM rims sporting Geolander AT+2 265/70/17's. A Daystar 1" spacer, Stainless Nerf bars, Lund Avenger bug shield, tinted front windows, a stubby antenna that doesn't catch in my kids BBall net, De-stickered visors, and Flowmaster Delta 50 Cat back exhaust.
Next Mods... DeBadge the exterior and Boze 17" Rims.
I just got off the phone with my dealer. Great guy's by the way. They gave me the following specs. I mentioned I had a 1" coil spacer in the front and new tires. The Service Advisor said he thinks that makes the trucks look so much better than that they just realigned a new Sequoia with a coil spacer today . That made me feel a little better! I'm not sure what machine they use.
Specs they gave me for 05 DC Tundra SR5 4x4:
Camber
Left 0.07 Right 0.07 TOL. .75
Cross Camber TOL .50
Caster
Left 1.87 Right 1.87 TOL. .75
Cross Caster TOL. .50
Total Toe
0.12 TOL .20
SAI
Left 10.32 Right 10.32 TOL. .75
Am I safe to assume TOL = Tolerance plus and minus. Example: Left Camber is -.68 to .82. Can that be right? Or is the .75 Tolerance split (.37 plus or minus)?
Yep, that's tolerance + or - .75 degrees. By lifting only the front end you have changed the angle at which the truck sits relative to stock (probably the reason you did it ) and stock alignment settings. This has reduced your caster by a little bit so you should compensate for that when getting it aligned.
__________________ 2004 Salsa Red Pearl DC Limited 4x2
Toyota Mods:
Accessory Meter / Leather / LSD / Moonroof / Tow Package / Rear DVD System / Challenger Step Boards / Carpet Mats / Toyoguard
My Mods:
Debadged / Line-X / Window Tint to Match Rears / Hellwig Anti-Sway Bar / ORW Steering Rack Bushings / RAPS / VSE Subwoofer / Pop&Lock Power Tailgate Lock / Unichip / JBA's / Gibson Exhaust
It's a coil spacer... not the body lift. I know it has changed the alignment a little. I just want to optimize the ride, steering, and most importantly, tire wear.
It DOES steer a little differently, which is the main reason driving the alignment. Not bad, just enough to make me want it checked.
I have read through many of DJ's comments. Given the fact that it is slightly lifted and that it is an 05, I think his answer would be "set Toe and Camber dead on and Castor at the upper end of the range".
I did find a shop that said if I give them the spec, they would align it to that spec. They use a "Jim Beam Laser" system. They have to set up the machine differently, so the cost is $79.
Bingo.
And, forget the "John Bean" system. Not that I'm a horribly biased ex-Hunter guy or anything like that, but Hunter aligners have a feature known as the "CAMM" display which makes adjusting camber and caster on a Tundra a breeze. The John Bean systems don't have it, so adjusting camber and caster using it is MUCH MUCH more difficult, and so you just might not get quite what you want.
Thanks guys! I was hoping you would chime in DJ! One last question....
Caster factory spec being 1.87 +/- .75 puts the upper end of the spec at 2.40-2.63. Should I go that high if they can get it there? Or should I stay closer to the 2.00-2.25 range.
Now I see why you say what you say about Toyota's preferred ranges. Caster being 1.12-2.63 seems pretty loose.
Thanks again, Gentlemen!
Rick
__________________
2005 Silver Sky Metallic Tundra DC SR5 4x4 with 17" OEM rims sporting Geolander AT+2 265/70/17's. A Daystar 1" spacer, Stainless Nerf bars, Lund Avenger bug shield, tinted front windows, a stubby antenna that doesn't catch in my kids BBall net, De-stickered visors, and Flowmaster Delta 50 Cat back exhaust.
Next Mods... DeBadge the exterior and Boze 17" Rims.
Thanks guys! I was hoping you would chime in DJ! One last question....
Caster factory spec being 1.87 +/- .75 puts the upper end of the spec at 2.40-2.63. Should I go that high if they can get it there? Or should I stay closer to the 2.00-2.25 range.
Now I see why you say what you say about Toyota's preferred ranges. Caster being 1.12-2.63 seems pretty loose.
Thanks again, Gentlemen!
Rick
Get it as high as you can get it such that camber is dead on and caster is the same on both sides. I run mine at 2.85 degrees of caster.
It's a coil spacer... not the body lift. I know it has changed the alignment a little. I just want to optimize the ride, steering, and most importantly, tire wear.
It DOES steer a little differently, which is the main reason driving the alignment. Not bad, just enough to make me want it checked.
I have read through many of DJ's comments. Given the fact that it is slightly lifted and that it is an 05, I think his answer would be "set Toe and Camber dead on and Castor at the upper end of the range".
I did find a shop that said if I give them the spec, they would align it to that spec. They use a "Jim Beam Laser" system. They have to set up the machine differently, so the cost is $79.
AHHHHH, I see, thought you did the 1" body lift. I had the 2.5" cornfeds in for a long time and just had my truck set up to DJs specs. Not sure if it applies to the 05 or not, but even with the lift that worked for me.
Now with 6" and 35s on I am positive on caster as far as I can get and just a hair over positive camber and toe. that seems to work really well and I don't have any abnormal tire wear.
Now with 6" and 35s on I am positive on caster as far as I can get and just a hair over positive camber and toe. that seems to work really well and I don't have any abnormal tire wear.
How high are you able to get on caster? I just had my truck re-aligned yesterday due to some wobbling of the steering wheel back and forth at certain speeds. The highest they could get the caster is 1.1 I believe (possibly 1.3). The tech said that it was maxed out. Is that possible? Oh, and I have 35" tires on the 2.5" cornfeds and 3" body lift. He was using a Hunter machine.
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I have found that after the gears were put on i have a steering wobble, I don't like it so I will go back and probably have them pass the 2 mark to see if that helps.