This makes me ill , but has anyone replaced a front lug bolt on a 05 4x4 DC ?
At 5k miles tonight, I rotated my tires. Glancing at the manual for the torque values , I set my torque wrench to the what I thought was the right value of 110 ftlbs. My last truck was a Chev 1 ton dually with a torque value of 140 ftlbs so this didn't seem unreasonable at the time. As I finished the last lug, it snapped ! SH*T ! I checked the manual again and realized it should have been the 83 ftlb value. I backed off the remaining 5 and retorqued to the 83 ftlb.
So how tough is it to pound out and change. Should I change the remaining 5 since I've probably stretched them too? Could just kick myself in the @ss...
I would change all the lugs with new ones since they might be cracked already. So, don't drive the truck. To get the lug that snapped, you will have to drill a hole in the lug and screw in a "plug" that screw in counter clock wise and once you get it tight you can release the broken lug nut out by continuing to move it in a counter clock wise direction. Might have a professional do that once you get all the other lug nuts replaced if you don't have the tools to do that.
Thanks for the reply. So these aren't a press fit into the back of the hub ?
Just check the back of the hub. You should be able to tell right away if it is a press in stud. You will see the back of the stud on the back of the hub. Any brake or muffler shop should be able to change all the studs out for about 20-50 bucks depending on where you take it. If they are press in, you will need a shop to do it, unless you have a good pnuematic press in your garage.
Anybody else have an opinion on getting the front lugs out to replace ?Thanks
The factory manual for my 03 tundra says they are pressed in studs.
You need a small press to remove (borrow from local parts shop of choice) and you just use a lug nut (or open nut w/ the same thread) and washer to seat the new stud.
I've done this before - simple if you are comfortable doing your own maintenance.
Watch those torque values! Just imagine what those air gun jockeys are doing to your studs at the local tire shop (most dealers as well for that matter). Write the correct torque on the center grease cap on the hub - hopefully the wheel guy can read!!!!
All done guys ! Thanks for the suggestions. Hope this helps someone else someday. I bought 6 of the little buggers from Toyota for $3.46 a piece. Replacement was simple:
Pull wheel
Remove two caliper mounting bolts and support caliper
Remove rotor
Two taps with a small hammer and each were out
Slip in new bolts and hand tighten until gap between bolt and back of hub closes
Mount rotor
Mount Caliper (need to find actual torque value for those bolts)
Mount Wheel and slowly suck up any slack remaining
Torque to 83 ftlbs
Not to be paranoid, but would you guys be worried about using the old acorn nuts?
This makes me ill , but has anyone replaced a front lug bolt on a 05 4x4 DC ?
At 5k miles tonight, I rotated my tires. Glancing at the manual for the torque values , I set my torque wrench to the what I thought was the right value of 110 ftlbs. My last truck was a Chev 1 ton dually with a torque value of 140 ftlbs so this didn't seem unreasonable at the time. As I finished the last lug, it snapped ! SH*T ! I checked the manual again and realized it should have been the 83 ftlb value. I backed off the remaining 5 and retorqued to the 83 ftlb.
I can't imagine that your torquing of a stud to 140 ft/lbs alone broke it. Something else must have contributed to its failure before you touched it. Maybe it was defective.
The point I'm trying to make is that it may not be necessary to replace the other five studs simply because they were torqued to 140 ft/lbs. Since it is not known why this stud failed, and if it makes you feel more comfortable to replace the others, then go for it.
Good luck.
__________________ Completed Mods:
S&S long tube headers
Brembo rotors
TSB caliper upgrade
Akebono ProAct ceramic pads
Stainless steel braided brake lines
Total Chaos steering rack bushings
Alignment to DJ's specs
Century cap
Line-X
XM Commander satellite radio w/USA Spec dual aux input adapter
Future Mods:
Rearview camera system
Sound deadener
Fusion Drive
Flux Capacitor Control Unit (FCCU)
All done guys ! Thanks for the suggestions. Hope this helps someone else someday. I bought 6 of the little buggers from Toyota for $3.46 a piece. Replacement was simple:
Pull wheel
Remove two caliper mounting bolts and support caliper
Remove rotor
Two taps with a small hammer and each were out
Slip in new bolts and hand tighten until gap between bolt and back of hub closes
Mount rotor
Mount Caliper (need to find actual torque value for those bolts)
Mount Wheel and slowly suck up any slack remaining
Torque to 83 ftlbs
Not to be paranoid, but would you guys be worried about using the old acorn nuts?
Thanks again guys !
AL
I was to slow in typing my previous post. The point is moot.
I am surprised that you got the studs out so easily.
If the the acorn nuts thread over the new studs easily, then they should be fine.
__________________ Completed Mods:
S&S long tube headers
Brembo rotors
TSB caliper upgrade
Akebono ProAct ceramic pads
Stainless steel braided brake lines
Total Chaos steering rack bushings
Alignment to DJ's specs
Century cap
Line-X
XM Commander satellite radio w/USA Spec dual aux input adapter
Future Mods:
Rearview camera system
Sound deadener
Fusion Drive
Flux Capacitor Control Unit (FCCU)
Actually, they were only torqued to 110. The 140 was for a previous 1 ton Chevy I owned. I agree that the stud must have been weak. It showed obvious stretching beore it snapped clean off at the thread base. None of the others exhibited this . I should have measured the new studs with a micrometer so I could compare to the ones I pulled out. Might have been interesting.
I don't think the old lugs should have come out that easily either. On my Chevy Blazer, I had to use my 12 ton press or a big vise. I guess if the new ones went on that easily, it might be normal though.
Anybody else have an opinion on getting the front lugs out to replace ?
Thanks
if you only broke one you'll be ok to drive it to local toyota dealer an just tell them that it snap on a flat or something it helps if is the dealer you got the trunk from. Is rare but it happens and you might get it for free.
I can't imagine that your torquing of a stud to 140 ft/lbs alone broke it. Something else must have contributed to its failure before you touched it. Maybe it was defective.
When CORRECT torque is applied to a stud the stud itself stretches - that's how it works.
The degree of "stretch" is engineered. Over tightening the stud causes PLASTIC deformation of the stud (big words for " stretch permanently, change stud metal characteristics at the microscopic level in a bad way")
Studs that are correctly torqued (stretched) have a duty cycle as well (they change permanently over time). Racers change certain bolts/studs after each torque cycle!
BOTTOM LINE - yes, over torque is BAD all of the time - gone are the days of "over engineering" that allowed this kind of abuse of torque values!
The field of engineering that deals with this is Finite Element Analysis for those with way too much spare time ;-)
I also have a 2005 Tundra V8 DC. I went to rotate the tires at 7,000 miles and found a little bit of rust on the lug studs. Today at 14,000 there was even more rust. I cleaned them with a wire brush and retorqued them. Anyone else experiencing rusty lugs on a Tundra? I go through a car wash with a side rocker sprayer / blaster. I wonder if that is the culprit, but then again I have never seen rust on lugs of other vehicles I have had.
Front Lugs - 05 4x4
Linear Mode
